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We have been testing scooter after scooter since December 2024, including in China and Taiwan. There have also been several launched in Malaysia during that period, one of which was the 2025 QJMotor AX200s.

Since then, the bike had garnered quite a reputation in the lightweight scooter segment with many comments attaching a whole bunch of (positive) superlatives to it; the most common word used was ‘mantap‘ in Bahasa Melayu which collectively meant “awesome.”

Thus, we were eager to find out for ourselves if those claims really held any water.

What is the 2025 QJMotor AX200s?

The AX200s was launched back in May 2025, as another model distributed by the mega distributor, MForce Bike Holdings.

QJMotor, also known as Qianjiang Motorcycle, is a Chinese motorcycle maker that founded in 1985. They have grown by leaps and bounds since then, and currently holds the Keeway and Benelli brands. QJ is also part of the Geely Holding Group. Harley-Davidson had partnered with QJMotor in 2019 to produce a 338cc bike for the Asian market.

Over to the AX200s, it is a small capacity automatic scooter, but biased toward the urban-sport sub-segment, rather than an adventure scooter. As such, QJMotor did not hide the bike’s intentions by giving it a sharp and aggressive styling.

Let us not beat around the bush and say that it has found itself compared to the Yamaha NVX, mainly because of their similar styling.

Highlights of the 2025 QJMotor AX200s

  • 175cc, single-cylinder, SOHC, 4-valve engine which produces 17.0 hp (13.0 kW) at 8,500 RPM and 15.2 Nm at 6,500 RPM.
  • Front suspension utilises telescopic forks, while there are oil-damped twin shock absorbers at the back.
  • 230mm single brake disc up front, 220mm disc at the back.

  • Dual-channel ABS and switchable TCS are standard features.
  • 100/80-14 front and 120/70-14 rear tyres.
  • 730mm seat height.

  • 10-litre fuel tank.
  • Dry weight of 127 kg.
  • LCD screen with touchscreen “buttons.”

  • Idle stop function.
  • LED lighting.

On paper, the AX200s pulls ahead in several aspects, such as engine capacity hence maximum power and torque outputs, besides featuring a rear disc brake, bigger fuel tank, and touchscreen metre panel. What it lacks is a smartphone connectivity feature like the Yamaha Y-Connect, but we cannot have it all, can we?

Riding impressions

Pre-ride

Our first impression of the QJMotor AX200s was how compact it is, so much so it could easily be mistaken for a 100cc scooter. It was short from headlight to taillight, had a narrow handlebar, and a diminutive passenger’s seat. That made it look both sporty and cute.

As with every scooter, everything was tucked away underneath a neatly designed bodywork. Speaking about neat, say all you want about Chinese motorcycle makers, but this bike oozed quality: The paint was flawless, there was no rough edge on the plastics, and metal parts had smooth finishing.

The front “glovebox” was small and had enough space for a standard-sized smartphone and a USB-C charging port. The underseat storage space was also rather small, due to the bike’s compact exterior.

Moving onto the instrumentation, data was displayed on a beautiful colour LCD screen. The letters and icons are so sharp that some thought it was a TFT screen. There was no physical button to switch among the information and to turn the traction control off. Instead, you tap and hold the SET “button” until it blinks, then tap the ADJ icon to select. It works if you wear gloves with phone touch pads, too.

Daily riding

From the perspective of a 167cm rider with short legs and arms, his feet found the ground easily. A little bit of tip toeing, but not ballerina-like, due to the low seat and its shape which taperered sharply toward the front. In any case, the footprint was secure and we could immediately discern the bike’s lightness as it was easy to push around while seated, even up a slight slope.

The reach to the handlebar was (very) short, especially after hopping off a big bike to the AX200s, and we initially felt as if our elbows grew out of our torso. However, it became natural when we spread our elbows.

With all that out of the way, it is a simple scooter and all we had to do was climb on, twisted the Smart Key knob to the correct position, started the engine, twisted the throttle and off we went. There was no power mode or phone connectivity suite to fiddle with.

The AX200s jumped off the line quickly like a scalded cat (apologies for the expression) and kept going as long as the throttle remained open. Glancing in the rearview mirror showed that we had dumped everyone else behind at the traffic lights.

It was not limited to low-RPM torque only as the engine seemed to have much reserve torque anywhere in the RPM range up to its top speed. This quick-reacting torque made overtaking easy, whether on B-roads or highways. The bike’s top speed was also achieved rapidly.

On the other hand, chopping the throttle saw the engine’s back torque (engine braking) grabbing quickly, which pointed toward the bike being fitted with light roller weights.

As such, throttle feedback was a little snatchy when it was first cracked open and shut quickly, especially when we were riding in stop/start traffic. Regardless, we worked around this by holding the throttle very slightly open and dragging the brakes.

Speaking of the brakes, they were superbly strong. Scooters have most of their weight at the back, and therefore the AX200s’s rear brake was more powerful than the front, which was the correct brake force bias. But that did not mean the front brake was anaemic because using the front anchor alone was more enough to bring the bike to a stop without drama.

Another character we enjoyed was its handling. Granted, such scooters feature quick steering as part of their DNA but the AX200s was also stable through corners, unlike some that waggle their handlebars. As such, we ended up charging into and blasting out of corners as if it was a bigger bike. Adding to this attribute was the bike’s generous cornering clearance – we tried to see if it dragged a stand into corners but never succeeded despite throwing the bike into 90-degree corners at high speeds.

Contributing to the QJMotor AX200s’s admirable handling was its suspension and chassis. The forks looked basic but they do not dive like the Titan submersible even during hard braking that activated the ABS. The dual rear shocks provided a progressive damping characteristic, especially useful in corners.

However, there is only so much suspension travel for urban scooters compared to adventure scooters. Consequently, the AX200s’s suspension felt harsh over sharp bumps. Still, it was necessary and easy to live with compared to having a suspension that wallows like a boat.

Last but not least, that engine returned great fuel economy despite us wringing its neck and deactivating the engine idle stop feature. We filled up half a tank only once during our test period, after picking it up with the low fuel warning showing. Thus the full 10 litres should be able to carry you over a long distance.

Oh yes, talking about low fuel warning: The bike automatically flashed the emergency signal when the fuel level dropped too low, as a warning to the rider and other road users that the engine may flame out at any time. The said warning turned itself off after filling up.

Conclusion

We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves while testing the AX200s. It truly showed just why scooters are so popular at the moment – convenience being on the top of the list. However, the AX200s provided much more than convenience, making it a lot of fun, even for us jaded old timers.

Our only complaint was the small underseat storage space, but it was still enough to fit a three-day grocery bag. Looking at it objectively, not everyone rides along with their laptop computer everyday like us.

Overall, the 2025 QJMotor AX200s was a good product, worthy of the attention. At just RM7,988 (not on-the-road), it is certainly enticing.

Photo gallery

Open-class naked bikes. It is about aggressiveness, style, and performance. In other words, pure motorcycling. Granted, we are lucky to have many open class (1000cc) naked bikes in Malaysia, but the Japanese offerings seem to play the second fiddle to their European rivals in the minds of consumers. So, will this 2025 Honda CB1000 SP bring about a shift in this perception?

What is the 2025 Honda CB1000 SP?

Firstly, the CB1000 is also known as the Hornet 1000 in European markets, and therefore, we need to elaborate further.

The CB1000 range consists Honda’s open-class naked/roadster motorcycles, and it has two current models, namely this CB1000 and the CB1000R. A CB1000F prototype was  also revealed at the Tokyo Motorcycle Show this March and may be launched at the Suzuka 8 Hours Endurance Race in August.

Honda CB1000F

CB1000R: Honda calls it a Neo Café streetfighter, with a single-sided swingarm.

CB1000F: The upcoming variant is an homage to the CB750F/CB900F that Freddie Spencer campaigned in the AMA Superbike Championship in the late 70s and early 80s.

CB1000/CB1000 SP/Hornet 1000: A sporty streetfighter, with a conventional double-side swingarm. The SP version features several goodies.

All three variants share the same 1000cc, inline-four engine adopted from the 2017 Honda CBR1000RR Fireblade, albeit tuned for low to mid-range torque, plus the tubular steel frame.

To understand the CB1000’s philosophy further, the Hornet name is hallowed to Honda. The maker launched the first CB600F Hornet in 1998 for the European market. It was powered by the 599cc, inline-line four engine adopted from the CBR600F (and later CBR600RR) sportbike, and minus the higher-end components. Hence, The Hornet was more accessible, practical, and cheaper, becoming the most popular 600c motorcycle in the UK and Europe.

Coming back to the CB1000/Hornet 1000, it embodies the spirit of accessible performance, practicality, at a budget friendly price, wrapped up in a sharp, aggressive bodywork thereby distinguishing its character compared to its brethren.

Highlights of the 2025 Honda CB1000 SP

  • 1000cc, liquid-cooled, 16-valve DOHC inline-four delivers 155 hp (115.6kW) at 11,000rpm and 107Nm of torque at 9,000rpm.
  • The gain of 5.4 hp (4kW) and 2 Nm is achieved through the addition of a Revolutionary Controlled (RC) valve in the 7.1L exhaust muffler, compared to the non-SP version.
  • Fueling is managed via PGM-FI (Programmed Fuel Injection), supported by a 17L fuel tank.

  • Multi-plate assist & slipper wet clutch, and 6-speed transmission.
  • Adjustable quickshifter enables clutchless up/down shifts.
  • Twin LED projectors and a muscular-style tank.

  • Twin-spar steel frame.
  • Fully-adjustable 41mm Showa SFF-BP forks.
  • Fully-adjustable Öhlins TTX36 rear shock with Pro-Link.

  • Brembo Stylema front brake calipers and 310mm floating discs.
  • 5″ TFT display with Honda RoadSync supports calls, music, nav, and notifications via Bluetooth.
  • Emergency Stop Signal (ESS) system flashes hazard lights during sudden braking for added safety.

  • Three default ride modes (SPORT, STANDARD, RAIN) plus two customisable USER modes.
  • USER1 and USER2 modes allow the rider to tailor Adjustable Power and Engine Braking.
  • Four-level Honda Selectable Torque Control (HSTC) and Wheelie Control boost traction and stability across conditions.
  • 211 kg curb weight.

Riding the 2025 Honda CB1000 SP

Pre-Ride

Our first impression of the new CB1000, engine rumbling at idle with its heat washing over us got our pulse pumping. We have ridden the CB1000R several years ago but that did not have the same effect, for some reason… The new bike has sharper front end (which split opinion, yes), bulbous fuel tank, and sharp tail. The gold rims and forks offset the stealth fighter-like matte black bodywork, resulting in a luxurious look, like that of 70s racebikes and race cars.

Speaking about the front end, we have had comments that it is similar or even identical to the Kawasaki Z1000 and Ducati Streetfighter. What we could say is it looked so very different in the flesh.

We always begin our initial test rides with familiarising ourselves with the bikes’ conrols and settings, to avoid getting confused and distracted while riding.

The 5-inch TFT panel was the same as the one on the NSS250 scooter we just dropped off, and it was a welcome sight, given its sharp and vivid colour display. Every icon, number, and graph were easily discernible and digested. Toggling through the data and features was through “joystick” on the left handlebar. So, we paired our Bluetooth devices by adding another bike in the Honda RoadSync App, customised our display settings, set the riding mode, and quickshifter modes through the TFT screen.

The CB1000 not only use the same TFT screen, its software is also identical as the NSS250’s. We feel that this is a good thing because it makes it easy to configure all the Honda motorcycles in your garage. (In our wildest dreams, of course, judging by how much we make.)

First ride

Throwing a leg over the bike had us discovering its low seat height. Yes, it looked tall in pictures and in real life but we could place both feet on the ground securely. Honda listed the seat height at just 810mm, while most open-class naked motorcycles feature seat heights in the 830mm region.

Helping with that was the bike’s thin “waist” where the seat met the fuel tank. The profile at  the front of the tank was wide, thinned down in the middle, then the passenger’s seat widened out again, giving the motorcycle the profile of a hornet when viewed from the top.

We started out in STANDARD ride mode and the bike made it vividly clear to us that it was tuned for aggression. Slipping out the clutch in first gear and opening the throttle slightly was enough to have the bike roaring down the road. It was enjoyable to blow away absolutely everyone else when taking off from the traffic lights, along with the exhaust that was surprisingly loud for a stock unit.

Daily riding

As much as we loved that low and mid-RPM torque, which made it feel a lot more like a triple rather than a traditional inline-four, it was apparent that the engine was very eager to go. Trying to split lanes at low speeds and in STANDARD mode had the bike lunging forward as soon as the throttle was cracked open, while rolling off ever so slightly resulted in strong engine braking.

We tried to lower engine braking further in the USER1 and USER2 modes to no avail. In the end, we resorted to using the clutch a lot more.

We soon discovered that the best mode to navigate through heavy traffic was RAIN. Switching to this mode had the engine calm down aurally, and the throttle response and engine braking became very smooth.

But do not get us wrong, the CB1000 was still a huge pleasure to ride and ride quickly in urban surroundings, given that we have so many highway on and off ramps!

The Mountain

The “Mountain” is our regular test route as it offers everything the Malaysian road system could muster: Fast sweepers on the highway, tight and bumpy corners on the way up and down.

We switched to SPORT mode before leaving the BHP Gombak petrol station. The engine sounded like it was burning rocket fuel now – louder, rawer, more visceral – even before we got moving.

Pulling out of the station’s forecourt and onto the highway had our arms stretched straight as the engine gave a mighty kick, so much so that the handlebar became light and started to waggle. We were grateful that the HSTC package included Wheelie Control and could hear the engine dragging a little like the clutch being slipped. Otherwise, we would probably be pulling a crossed up wheelie.

Also thankfully, the bike’s suspension and chassis are up to the task, despite looking basic. On the highway, the bike’s sharp steering had it hitting every point we pointed it without hesitation or drama. We could change our line through corners despite being leaned way over without the chassis and tyres tying itself up in knots. Bumps on the highway felt non-existent. The only difficulty was trying to hang on due to the wind blast at elevated speeds.

Up the mountain road, we charged into corners regardless of radius or camber and let the engine’s torque carry us out to the next one. However, the suspension, especially the rear shock felt stiffer when faced with the bigger bumps and potholes. Three clicks off the TTX36’s rebound damping solved it. From here on, no bump could upset our chosen cornering line.

The brakes were also awesome. They provided amazing stopping power along with a superb feel at the lever. When push came to shove, we used that feedback to trail brake into corners which surprised several supersport riders.

Adding to the visceral feel of the bike was the RC exhaust valve which beings to open at 5,700 RPM. Riding the bike below that point, we hear the growling exhaust note. From 5,700 RPM and above, the exhaust note became a howl which stood the hairs on the back of neck up.

However, do keep in mind that 5,700 RPM in sixth gear had the bike running at over 130 km/h…

It suddenly dawned upon us about how easily we could contradict (read: fool) ourselves. This tester had said to himself that riding a slower bike or scooter was relaxing, and questioned who needs a powerful bike, only to giggle in his helmet like a schoolgirl when the Honda CB1000 SP blew everyone away. When they said power corrupts, it really does.

Conclusion

The 2025 Honda CB1000 SP reminded us that a powerful, but controllable motorcycle was always fun to ride. It is this kind of motorcycle that makes you want to go out and just ride. And ride. Repeat.

Of course, it was not perfect due to the abrupt throttle response in some riding modes but we overcame that in the first few minutes riding the bike. But it was this kind of character that imbues the bike with the two distinct personalities of a (sassy) pussycat and a tiger, depending on your preference and mood.

Also, upshifting with the quickshifter was not as smooth in the first three gear despite us playing around with different RPMs, modes, and settings. But so what? We still shift gears manually on every motorcycle (not scooters, of course!) anyway.

At just RM69,999 (RRP, not on-the-road), Boon Siew Honda had brought in another winner, and yes, it can rival the European bikes by offering great handling and accessibility.

Our final advice: Do not test ride the bike unless you are willing to suffer the adrenaline withdrawal like we did.

2025 Honda CB1000 SP Specifications

Model CB1000 Hornet SP
ENGINE
Type 1,000cc liquid-cooled, 27.6º inclined, inline-four, four-stroke
Valve Train DOHC; 4 valves per cylinder
Bore x Stroke 76.0mm x 55.1mm
Compression Ratio 11.7:1
Induction PGM-FI fuel injection with 44mm throttle bodies (ride by wire throttle)
Ignition Full transisterized
Starter Electric
Transmission 6-speed manual
Clutch Multiplate wet
Final Drive #525 Chain; 15T/45T
SUSPENSION
Front 41mm Showa Separate Function Front Fork Big Piston (SFF-BP) with adjustable preload and compression/rebound damping; 5.1 in. travel
Rear Pro-link system with Öhlins TTX36 shock absorber, adjustable preload, compression, and rebound damping; 130mm travel
BRAKES
Front Dual Brembo Stylema radial-mount four-piston hydraulic calipers with 310mm floating discs; ABS
Rear Single Nissin one-piston hydraulic caliper with 240mm disc; ABS
TIRES
Front 120/70-17
Rear 180/55-17
MEASUREMENTS
Rake (Caster Angle) 25º
Trail 98 mm
Length 2141.22 mm
Width 792.48 mm
Height 1087.12 mm
Ground Clearance 134.62 mm
Seat Height 810.26 mm
Wheelbase 1455.42 mm
Fuel Capacity 17 litres (incl. 3.78 litres reserve)
Curb Weight 210.92 kg
OTHER
Colour Matte Black Metallic

Photo gallery

Automatic scooters are undoubtedly the in-thing in the Malaysian motorcycle market these days, with more and more models entering the “war zone” almost on a monthly basis. However, let us not ignore the elephant in the room: It is now the legacy manufacturers versus the Chinese contenders. As such, how will the 2025 Honda NSS250 fare?

What is the Honda NSS250

The 2025 Honda NSS250 is a new(-ish) 250cc maxi-scooter. Newish because Honda had revised the the previous Forza 250 (called the NSS250 overseas), which was available in Malaysia. So now, it is the NSS250 in Malaysia, while it is the Forza 250 overseas.

2025 Honda NSS250

Still, we feel that Honda did a great job as they have taken the NSS250 to a contemporary styling, compared to the old school style previously. And Honda being Honda, the bike’s styling is modern but restrained without being fussy. Pictures do not do it justice, because you could just sit beside the NSS250 and point out the small details for hours.

One look at the bike and you will realise how much the maker paid attention to comfort, convenience, and elegance, besides sportiness.

Highlights

  • Powered by a 249.5cc, single-cylinder, liquid-cooled, SOHC, 4-valve, with PGM-FI injection and eSP+ engine, which delivers 23 hp (17 kW) at 7,750 RPM and 24 Nm of torque at 6,250 RPM.
  • The PGM-FI and eSP+ features ensure a smooth torque delivery, along with optimum fuel efficiency.
  • Automatic transmission with dry centrifugal clutch.

  • Telescopic 33mm diameter front forks, dual shocks at the rear with double-sided swingarm.
  • Single 256mm brake disc up front, single 240mm brake disc at the back.
  • Dual-channel ABS.

  • Tyre sizes are 120/70-15 in front and 140/70-14 rear.
  • 11.7-litre fuel tank.
  • 780mm seat height.

  • 185kg curb weight.
  • 5-inch TFT display with weather, navigation, music streaming, volume control, phone calls, and message notification features via the Honda RoadSync app.
  • Honda Selectable Torque Control (HSTC) traction control system.

  • Emergency Stop Signal feature which flashes the double signal during hard, emergency stops.
  • LED lighting throughout, the front signals are integrated in the fairing-mounted rearview mirrors.
  • Electrically-adjustable windshield.

  • Smart Key ignition.
  • 48-litre underseat storage space, enough for two full-faced helmet.
  • Lockable glovebox with USB-C charger, that is large enough to fit a 1.5-litre bottle of water, besides a smartphone!

Riding the 2025 Honda NSS250

Pre-Ride

Our first impression of the new NSS250 was how different it was compared to its predecessor. The older model definitely looked er… older, being long, low, bulbous. The new bike is more compact, sharper, and enticing. The rims are beautifully powdercoated in magnesium-gold, the bodywork has some tastefully-done panels, the tyres are fat, and that taillight cluster was the nicest among all scooters in the market.

Switch it on and the TFT panel comes to life with the Honda wing, before switching to a vivid and sharp display. All the icons, numbers, and tachometer are easily discernible without this writer wearing his reading glasses. The “joystick” on the left handlebar allows to you to toggle through all the bike’s data and features, such as pairing Bluetooth devices, display settings, data display settings, turning HSTC on or off, plus your next maintenance schedule.

Speaking of Bluetooth connectivity, we would always get it done right after receiving the key, before the initial ride. Connectivity needed to be performed through the Honda RoadSync app, which guided us step-by-step, hence it was painless. Once connected, we could begin to use the navigation feature, which we either typed in or spoke of the location into the phone.

However, we would like to point out that since all of us used iPhones, music streaming on the bike is only available through the Apple Music app. But this is only a small niggle, as we hooked up our Midland BT Mini Bluetooth headset directly to our phone, and played music through Spotify. The only shortcoming was we could not control music playback via the NSS250’s joystick or see the song being played on the TFT screen.

The navigation feature was nice to have, of course, but beware, it is not yet as intuitive as Waze when you hope to ride around heavy traffic. Instead, it only points you to take the nearest route, much like when you set your Google Map to motorcycle mode. It also lagged when we rode at high speed, and sent us in the wrong direction altogether. Further, you could not activate shared locations directly to the app. We hope Honda can update the RoadSync app.

First ride

With that out of the way, the engine fired up with a quick but smooth vroom to let us know it was alive. Blipping the throttle while the bike was on its centrestand did not have it vibrate so much that it scraping along the ground. No, the NSS250’s engine was smooth.

Getting it off the stand was super easy and the bike seemed lighter than its published 185kg curb weight. It was also perhaps Honda mounted the centrestand in the correct centre of gravity.

Having ridden other scooters in the past, we began with a small throttle openings to avoid punching off the line with our feet akimbo and zig-zagging like a fool. Instead, the bike rewarded us with a silky smooth acceleration. The engine sounded like your average single-cylinder scooter, but that typical clunking noise was absent.

We tried it again from another traffic light and again, the bike will push off idle in a smooth fashion, as long as the throttle remain in the first one-third.

However, when we ripped the throttle above fifty percent, things happened mighty quickly. Acceleration was still smooth, mind you, but the speeds piled on almost in a blur. Once it reached 90 km/h, the NSS250 took off like it lit the afterburner. And at these speeds, rolling off the throttle will have the bike coasting as if it was freewheeling, which was evident of heavy rollers.

We hope you do not misinterpret what we meant. This was not a bad thing, not at all. Honda did a great job of giving the 2025 Honda NSS250 this “dual character” for better riding. The smooth, linear torque is great for riding in congested traffic and urban areas, while the quick torque and power hit are great for riding on the open highway. In doing so, you do not have to struggle with an abrupt on/off throttle response while lane splitting, while still having reserves of power when you need to overtake slower vehicles on the highway. And Honda did so without needing to equip the bike with a variable valve system which just adds extra complexity.

Handling

We shall come right out and say that the 2025 Honda NSS250 is the best-handling 250cc scooter.

It is given that any scooter is keen to change direction, but the NSS250 does it great stability, almost like a big bike. The front end did not felt like it wanted to plop into any corner and did not waggle like a happy puppy. There was also plenty of feedback from the tyres, unlike other scooters, which gave us plenty of confidence to hoon the bike through corners.

The bike was ultra stable at top speed in a straight-line, too. It seemed to just hunker down on its suspension at speed, despite us sitting upright.

As for the suspension, it is a given that scooters feel harsh over sharp bumps due to their short-travel suspension. But we were completely surprised by this bike as both ends absorbed road irregularities well without once transferring bump energy to our liver. Yet, the chassis did not damp out the feel from the tyres, like we mentioned earlier.

Next come the brakes. The calipers and master cylinders are from Nissin and provided a crazy amount of stopping power when you need it. There was also plenty of feel on the levers, therefore letting you know how much braking you could utilise, which was something which I wished that some bigger bikes has it. Heck, we even trail-braked the bike into corners, which was something very dangerous for scooters.

Convenience, fuel economy, everyday riding

Although Boon Siew Honda loaned the NSS250 to us for only four days, we racked up close to 600 kilometres in that time. We would not have ridden it so much if it was not enjoyable (and we had two other test bikes just sitting at home).

That electrically-activated windshield was a huge welcome. We lowered it for more airflow and visibility when negotiating gridlocked traffic, and moved it up to reduce wind noise on the highways.

The underseat storage space was a huge (pun intended) welcome. We could store our jet-type helmet, plus a 10kg bag of rice and groceries. The front glovebox took a whole 1.5-litre bottle of water (great thing since it is so hot now). So who needs a Givi case when you ride this bike???

Not once was the bike difficult to start or to get on or off. The seat was low enough despite its large side panels, enabling us to plant our feet on the ground securely. Yes, the seat cushion seemed a little hard at first, but our backside did not feel sore after riding all day.

Add to that is Honda’s signature quality. The bike was oozing quality every centimetre we peeked. The panels fitted tightly, there was no creaking when we rode the bike over bumps, everything clicked and locked as they should.

Last but not least, the engine was really fuel efficient. We picked up the bike with half a tank of petrol and we only filled it back up once, also with half a tankful during our review.

Conclusion

To answer our opening question, the 2025 Honda NSS250 clearly shows why the legacy manufacturers are still in the game. Its ride quality, engine performance, build quality are nothing to be sneezed at. Sure, the Chinese contenders pack their bikes with more tech and features, but it is still the Japanese manufactures who provide an complete overall riding experience, especially in the chassis, handling, and overall quality fronts. In fact, this new NSS250 has beaten its closest Japanese rival.

In fact, it occurred to us that it was almost like riding the class-leading Honda Gold Wing, albeit a smaller version. Seriously, it is not because we are pandering to Honda, but it is truly so.

The only shortcoming we encountered was the navigation and music streaming feature, but that has to do with the external app, rather than the motorcycle itself.

So, is the 2025 Honda NSS250 worth the RM25,888 (recommended retail price, not on-the-road)? Every sen of it!

Specifications of the 2025 Honda NSS250

Engine
Type Single-cylinder, liquid-cooled, SOHC, 4-stroke, 4-valve, eSP+, PGM-FI
Displacement 249.5 cm³
Bore x Stroke 67.0 mm x 70.7 mm
Compression Ratio 10.2 : 1
Max. Power 23 hp (17 kW) / 7,750 rpm
Max. Torque 24 Nm / 6,250 rpm
Engine Oil Capacity 1.3 ℓ (After draining), 1.8 ℓ (After disassembly)
Drivetrain
Clutch Type Automatic centrifugal clutch dry type
Transmission Type Automatic
Chassis
Frame Type Underbone
Dimensions (L x W x H) 2,143 mm x 754 mm x 1,507 mm
Wheelbase 1,510 mm
Seat Height 780 mm
Ground Clearance 140 mm
Curb Weight 185 kg
Running gear
Suspension Type FR Telescopic
RR Swing Arm with Double Suspension
Tyre FR 120/70 – 15M/C (56P)
RR 140/70 – 14M/C (62P)
Brakes FR 256mm Hydraulic Single Disc with 2-piston Calliper, ABS
RR 240mm Hydraulic Single Disc with 1-piston Calliper, ABS

Photo gallery

There are insurance companies that take your money and give you coverage in the event of an accident or a breakdown. And there are insurance companies that go further than providing simple coverage.

Allianz General Insurance Company (Malaysia) Berhad (“Allianz General”) is one of those companies. In terms of numbers, Allianz Group is one of the biggest insurance providers in the world. It operates in over 70  countries, employs 150,000 people, and serves over 100 million customers globally.

On the local front, Allianz Malaysia Berhad has 32 branches nationwide and offers life and general insurance.

We recently caught up with Sazali bin Abdul Rahman, the Deputy Chief Sales Officer of Allianz General Insurance Company (Malaysia) Berhad, to learn what makes the company tick, how it works with its customers, and how its policies benefit motorcyclists.

Despite his position, Sazali is a humble man. Quick-witted and always with a joke to spare, he has all the facts and figures at the back of his mind. His team had prepared all the important figures for him, yet never once did he glance at the paper during our hour-long interview.

He is also a keen biker, which helps him understand what motorcyclists need on the road.

When asked what makes Allianz Motorcycle Plus different from the rest, he said, “What makes us different from the others is that we basically put a lot of elements and components into the policy, and we don’t charge anything.

When you buy a motorcycle policy, there are always things you need to add. You need to add flood coverage, personal accident coverage and such. So, we designed a policy that has all these little components, then offered it for free in one policy.

Sazali is quick to add that awareness is very important for policyholders. More often than not, we only think about things after they have happened. For example, people usually don’t think about floods. That is why Allianz General has taken it a step further by providing coverage from the start.

That’s not all, though. Sazali also lauds the Allianz Road Rangers service, which is provided for specific Allianz General products. “Allianz is always there to help you when you are in trouble,” says Sazali.

I want people to experience our service. Insurance companies almost always only help you when you are in trouble or after an incident has happened, but not Allianz. Even our claim approval rate is quite fast as compared to some of the industry peers,” he adds.

We wanted to know more about the flood coverage though, so we probed further.

Sazali is keen to explain, “In the event of a flood, we will provide RM1,000 to the policyholder for motorcycles below 250cc if the motorcycle is damaged due to flood. On top of that, there is also full flood coverage. So, if your motorcycle is washed away by a flood, we will pay you a full sum for the recommended value of the affected motorcycle, and on top of that, we will also pay the aforementioned RM1,000 as flood relief.

How is this different from other insurance providers? Well, for starters, the full flood coverage is offered as part of the policy, and you don’t have to pay extra for it. You also get the RM1,000 flood relief.

On the topic of Allianz Bike Warrior, it was the first of its kind in the market when it was first introduced. It helps by providing roadside assistance for motorcycles above 250cc and has now evolved into a household name.

However, Allianz General and the people behind the company are not the ones to sit on their laurels; in fact, they are constantly evolving. “We are now looking into how we can amplify the Bike Warrior program further because I think we now have new technology with EV bikes coming, so we are exploring that possibility as well,” explains Sazali.

On a final note, we also asked Sazali about how fast it takes to make a claim because we have heard some horror stories from the industry about claims taking weeks and months to be approved.

It is super easy to make a claim with Allianz. We have a dedicated mobile application called MyAllianz, where the claimant can see the progress of a claim. You can see when your chosen workshop has submitted a claim, what the progress is like and the status of everything. There is no manual intervention.

Addressing claim processes, Sazali emphasised efficiency: “Our Fast Track claim process ensures an adjuster is assigned immediately upon claim notification, and the claim is approved immediately following the inspection. The only time there might be a delay is when there is a parts delay or an error from the workshop, which has nothing to do with the insurance company,” he explains.

Before ending though, Sazali also pointed out that Allianz General is one of the only insurance companies that directly engages with road users to enhance road safety. Working with Miros, Allianz General provided free Sirim-approved replacement helmets to motorcyclists.

Insurance companies are usually cold fronts that seemingly do nothing but take our money. This interview provided a refreshing perspective on what goes on behind the scenes, the challenges involved, and the warmth of the people behind the company.

So, the next time you need to renew your insurance policy, you know where to look.

Gearing is an essential factor to extract the maximum potential of your motorcycle – be it for performance or smooth riding.

Unfortunately, this knowledge is lost among many current motorcyclists. Any race team will tell you that the wrong gearing selection will have their rider either struggling with acceleration, or deceleration, or cornering speed, or rear tyre traction, or all of these.

What is “gearing”?

Gearing alludes to the gear ratios. Gear ratios influence the translation of the gearbox’s torque output to the driving wheel. But to simplify, gear ratios influences how your motorcycle accelerates, decelerates (through engine braking), cornering speed, and traction.

Race bikes and sportbikes have “cassette-type” transmissions that can be pulled out quickly and lets the race technician change the sizes of individuals gears inside, in addition to the final drive gearing. We on street bikes, on the other hand, rely on altering the final drive gearing.

By the way, final gearing means the relation between the front and rear sprocket sizes. Gear sizes are determined by the number of teeth.

How does it work?

Gear ratio is calculated by diving the size of the rear sprocket with the front sprocket. For example:

Front sprocket size: 15 (teeth)

Rear sprocket size: 46

So, the ratio = 46 / 15 = 3.066 ≈ 3.07 : 1 (read as 3.07 to 1)

Meaning, the rear sprocket turns 3.07 times in order for the rear wheel to turn once.

Shorter gearing

To illustrate this easier, let us take another example but based on the above.

We keep the front sprocket size the same: 15

We replace the rear sprocket to a bigger one: 50

So, the new ratio is = 50 /15 = 3.33 : 1

Thus now, the sprocket needs to turn more to rotate the rear wheel once around. As such, more engine is required. This known shorter gearing (point below).

From the seat:

  • The motorcycle now accelerates faster.
  • Engine back torque (engine braking) is more pronounced when we roll off or shut the throttle.
  • The bike slows down much faster.
  • Throttle changes result in more abrupt power delivery.
  • It can also make the bike feel heavier to steer through corners as speed rubs off much quicker.
  • Resorting to using a higher gear for corners may result in freewheeling into the corner which scares many riders.
  • Shorter gearing results in more engine vibrations during cruising due to the higher revs.
  • Fuel consumption is increased due to higher engine RPM at a given speed.
  • This is called shorter gearing, as the top speeds achievable by each gear is now lower due to engine needing higher RPMs to turn the rear wheel.
  • Shorter gearing is great if you stay in an area with many sharp and short corners, such as Ulu Yam, or if you are riding at a track with short corners and straights such as the old Batu Tiga Circuit.
Longer gearing

Let us explore the other end of the spectrum.

We keep the front sprocket size the same: 15

We replace the rear sprocket to a smaller one: 40

So, the new ratio is = 40 /15 = 2.666 ≈ 2.67 : 1

With this change, the sprocket needs to turn more to rotate the rear wheel once around. As such, more engine is required. This known longer gearing (point below).

From the seat:

  • The motorcycle now accelerates slower.
  • Engine back torque (engine braking) is less pronounced when we roll off or shut the throttle.
  • The bike takes longer to slow down.
  • Throttle changes result in smoother power delivery.
  • It can also make the bike feels easier to steer through corners as more speed is maintained.
  • The rider may resort to using a lower gear for corners for more stronger engine braking.
  • Longer gearing results in less engine vibrations during cruising due to the lower revs.
  • Fuel consumption is reduced due to lower engine RPM at a given speed.
  • This is called longer gearing, as the top speeds achievable in each gear is now higher as the engine needs fewere RPMs to turn the rear wheel.
  • Longer gearing is great if you stay in an area where you need to commute on highways.
  • Likewise, you can change to a longer gearing if you are going on a long-distance tour which covers highways.
  • Longer than stock gearing also benefits motorcycles with engines modified for more power.
  • However, longer gearing results in sluggish acceleration from a standstill, and overly long gearing requires slipping the clutch to avoid stalling the engine.
Front vs. Rear Sprocket

Replacing the rear sprocket is an easier and quicker job as it is attached to the exposed rear wheel, compared to the front sprocket which is hidden behind a cover.

However, replacing the front sprocket for gearing ratio changes is better as the chain does not need to wrap around a small circumference.

Then again, certain motorcycles may not have enough space to permit a larger front sprocket.

Bayangkan scenario ini: Anda tiba di sebuah selekoh. Ia kelihatan seperti selekoh yang laju, jadi anda pun menyusur masuk. Malangnya, anda barulah sedar bahawa puncak selekoh ini sebenarnya lebih jauh ke dalam. Dalam erti lain, selekoh itu sebenarnya lebih tajam. Tetapi kelajuan motosikal masih terlalu tinggi dan anda mula bergerak ke bahagian luar selekoh dan terbabas (‘overshoot‘).

Apa yang perlu anda lakukan? Apa yang boleh anda lakukan?

Kemahiran asas ketika menunggang motosikal

Terdapat lima kemahiran asas yang WAJIB dimiliki oleh setiap penunggang motosikal:

  1. Kemahiran mengemudi.
  2. Penglihatan.
  3. Kawalan pendikit.
  4. Kawalan brek.
  5. Kedudukan/kawalan badan.

Tidak semestinya dalam susunan itu, tetapi kemahiran ini perlu sentiasa dikuasai.

Mari kita ingat lima perkara ini semasa kita membawa anda melalui pengalaman menunggang yang mendebarkan.

Jangan panik!

Ini ialah perkara paling penting. Sensai panik hanya akan memburukkan keadaan—padahal anda sebenarnya masih boleh pulang dengan selamat kepada orang tersayang.

Perkara pertama yang terjadi ketika panik ialah badan anda menjadi tegang. Badan yang tegang akan mengunci posisi anggota badan, menyebabkan anda tidak mampu memberikan daya kemudi motosikal dengan berkesan.

Tumpukan pandangan ke dalam selekoh

Motosikal akan menuju ke mana anda memandang. Jadi, jika anda panik dan memandang ke kawasan di luar selekoh, anda akan terbabas.

Cara terbaik untuk mengatasi panik ialah dengan memusingkan kepala ke arah selekoh bersama pandangan mata. Perbuatan sedemikian akan meredakan rasa panik kerana anda tahu di mana selekoh dan akhirnya titik keluar selekoh.

Tambahkan daya kemudi

Ingat teknik countersteer: Tolak hendal bahagian dalam selekoh (tolak kiri untuk belok kiri/tolak kanan untuk belok kanan) serta tarik bahagian luar dengan pantas. Cara mengemudi ini dilakukan oleh penunggang motosikal yang ‘advanced’ dan motosikal akan lebih membelok dengan lebih cepat ke dalam selekoh.

Kawal pendikit

Patutkah tutup pendikit? Buka pendikit? Atau kekalkan sahaja?

Jawapannya: jangan buat apa-apa perubahan yang mendadak.

  • Jika anda sudah menutup pendikit ketika mula masuk selekoh, biarkan ia tertutup.
  • Jika pendikit sedikit terbuka, kekalkan di posisi itu – jangan ditutup atau dibuka lebih lanjut.

Sebarang perubahan pada pendikit akan mengalihkan berat motosikal dan mengganggu keseimbangan casis.

  • Berat beralih ke tayar depan.
  • Motosikal akan ‘overshoot’.
  • Tapak tayar hadapan melebar dan meningkatkan geseran
  • Pengendalian motosikal menjadi “berat” dan susah untuk dibelokkan.

Sebaliknya, jika anda menambah pendikit:

  • Berat beralih ke belakang.
  • Tayar hadapan menjadi ringan (tapak sentuhan tayar mengecil).
  • Tapak kecil kurang responsif terhadap daya kemudi.
  • Akibatnya: motosikal cenderung ‘overshoot.’
  • Pentingnya mengekalkan pendikit:
  • Keseimbangan casis kekal stabil.
  • Daya kemudi konsisten dan boleh diramal.
  • Jika terpaksa kurangkan pendikit:
  • Lakukan secara beransur-ansur (bukan tutup tiba-tiba).
  • Putar pendikit ke bawah dengan lancar.

Ketika keluar selekoh:

  • Mulakan buka pendikit untuk menstabilkan motosikal.
  • Gunakan pendikit untuk pacuan keluar yang terkawal.

Ingat: Pendikit bukan suis ‘ON/OFF’! Sebaliknya ia alat untuk mengawal:

  1. Kelajuan.
  2. Keseimbangan casis.
  3. Tahap cengkaman tayar.
Boleh brek atau tidak?

Sebelum masuk selekoh:

  • Boleh gunakan brek depan tetapi;
    • Jangan cengkam tuil brek ibarat hendak menghancurkan batu.
    • Sebaliknya, perah perlahan-lahan untuk rasa ‘gigitan’ brek.
    • Lepaskan tekanan secara beransur semasa memerengkan motosikal.
    • Buka pendikit setelah nampak laluan keluar dan brek dilepaskan.
    • Teknik ini dipanggil ‘trail braking.”

Ketika motosikal sudah condong di dalam selekoh:

  • Jangan sentuh brek depan – ini undang bencana!
  • Sebalinknya tekan brek belakang sedikit kerana ia akan:
    • Memberikan rintangan di belakang pusat graviti motosikal.

    • Dan meratakan casis (keberatan motosikal tidak berubah ke depan atau belakang) dan motosikal dapat mengikuti selekoh dengan ketat.

Teknik ini digunakan oleh hampir SEMUA pelumba MotoGP!

Penutup

Semuanya bermula dengan tidak panik, tetapi yang lebih penting – latih lima kemahiran tadi setiap kali ada peluang. Saya sendiri sentiasa amalkan teknik ini setiap kali menunggang. Latihan ini tidak perlu dilakukan pada kelajuan tinggi. Sebenarnya, anda akan lebih cepat mahir jika berlatih secara perlahan dan konsisten, dan tambahkan kelajuan secara beransur-ansur.

Sama seperti kebanyakan bahagian pada motosikal, kelebaran tayar merupakan satu perdebatan yang “abadi.” Terdapat motosikal dengan kapasiti kecil dan kuasa enjin yang lebih rendah tetapi dipadankan dengan saiz tayar yang lebar, manakala terdapat beberapa motosikal yang lebih berat dan engin yang berkuasa tetapi dilengkapi dengan tayar yang lebih kurus (sempit).

Tetapi apa yang sebenarnya menarik perhatian kami untuk menulis artikel ini ialah melihat motosikal yang dipasang dengan tayar yang amat kurus, yang juga dikenali sebagai tayar sotong.

Tetapi adakah tayar yang lebih lebar mempunyai permukaan yang lebih besar dan oleh itu memberikan cengkaman yang lebih baik? Tanggapan itu tidak salah, tetapi ia sedikit lebih kompleks daripada itu. Mari kita lihat.
Tayar Lebar

Kelebihan

  • Lebih potensi cengkaman terutamanya semasa membelok.
  • Membolehkan kelajuan yang lebih tinggi di selekoh.
  • Membolehkan sudut mereng yang lebih banyak apabila membelok.
  • Lebih stabil.
  • Mampu tampung lebih kuasa enjin.
  • Membolehkan pembukaan pendikit yang lebih agresif ketika mengambil selekoh.
  • Lebih selamat untuk membrek ke dalam selekoh.
  • Membolehkan kita membrek dengan lebih keras.

Kekurangan

  • Biasanya lebih mahal.
  • Terasa “lebih berat” untuk dikemudi.
  • Meninggalkan lebih banyak bahagian yang tidak digunakan khususnya di tepi kerana tidak mengambil selekoh dengan tajam.
  • Sudut mereng motosikal lebih jauh apabila mengambil selekoh, berbanding tayar yang lebih kurus.
  • Lebih banyak jisim (keberatan) bermakna lebih banyak kuasa diperlukan untuk pecutan (rintangan bergolek).
  • Lebih banyak jisim juga bermakna suspensi dan brek perlu bekerja lebih keras.
Tayar Kurus

Kelebihan

  • Biasanya lebih murah.
  • Lebih mudah untuk mengemudi.
  • Lebih mudah untuk menggunakan keseluruhan tayar.
  • Rintangan bergerak yang kurang untuk pecutan lebih pantas dan penggunaan bahan api yang lebih rendah.
  • Dapat mengurangkan kekuatan spring dan redaman suspensi.
  • Motosikal tidak mereng sebanyak ke dalam selekoh pada kelajuan tertentu berbanding tayar yang lebih lebar.

Kekurangan

  • Kurang potensi cengkaman sisi, mengehadkan kelajuan selekoh dan sudut condong.
  • Motosikal berasa kurang stabil.
  • Tidak boleh membuka pendikit dengan agresif apabila motosikal dimerengkan.
  • Tidak boleh membrek dengan agresif.

Terdapat juga satu faktor untuk memasang tayar yang lebih lebar, iaitu gaya. Bagi kebanyakan penunggang motosikal, tayar belakang yang lebih lebar menjadikan motosikal itu kelihatan lebih agresif, lebih sporty. Tetapi dalam pengalaman kami menguji hampir setiap motosikal di pasaran, mempunyai tayar yang lebih lebar atau lebih kurus sebenarnya tidak penting. Ada kalanya tayar yang lebih lebar sebenarnya terasa keras di atas jalan awam.

Kembali kepada subjek tayar sotong, ia sebenarnya digunakan untuk pecutan garis lurus, seperti yang dilihat pada perlumbaan drag (dipanggil “sprint” di Malaysia). Mereka mungkin bagus untuk perlumbaan seperti itu kerana tiada selekoh, namun ia berbahaya di jalan raya. Itu kerana tayar terlalu kurus tidak dapat memberikan ruang untuk membrek kecemasan dan membelok. Tambahan lagi, profil yang rendah juga berisiko merosakkan rim akibat bonggolan tajam. Penulis ini sendiri pernah menyaksikan tayar sotong pada sebuah motosikal di hadapan meletup dan akibatnya penunggang itu tidak dapat mengawal motosikal.

Sebaliknya, kami juga menemui tayar yang terlalu lebar untuk saiz rim tertentu. Contohnya tayar dengan kelebaran 180 keratan pada rim untuk kelebaran 160 – disebabkan oleh salah tanggapan bahawa tayar yang lebih lebar bermakna lebih cengkaman. Tayar yang terlalu lebar akan menyebabkan bebibir rim mencubit tayar, dan menghasilkan tapak cengkaman yang sebenarnya LEBIH KECIL daripada yang disyorkan.

Sebagai kesimpulan, perkara terbaik ialah mematuhi cadangan pengeluar motosikal dan tayar. Ingin lebih cengkaman? Pilih satu dengan kompaun yang lebih lembut. Mahu lia tahan ebih lama? Pilihlah tayar sport-touring.

Pertandingan Honda Customs 2025 di Eropah kembali lagi untuk edisi keenam tahunan, dan kali ini, Honda CB350RS (dikenali sebagai GB350S di Eropah) dipilih sebagai model asas.

Sebelas hasil kustom CB350RS dari tujuh buah negara, yang diubah suai oleh pengedar dan pakar kustom, telah terpilih. Kesemua motosikal ini akan dipamerkan semasa festival Wheels and Waves di Biarritz, Perancis.

Pemenang akan ditentukan berdasarkan jumlah undian yang diterima. Anda boleh mengundi melalui laman web https://www.hondacustoms.com/en. Tahun lepas, pemenangnya adalah Bunker Garage dari Turki dengan café racer berasaskan CL500 mereka.

CB350RS adalah seperti kanvas yang sangat sesuai untuk dikustom, dan itulah yang dipilih oleh Honda tahun ini. Pilihan yang tepat!

Berikut adalah gambaran kesemua sebelas hasil kustom yang terpilih:

1. RE: CRAFTED OKIRA – Freaky Debbie, Ruleshaker – (Perancis)

Lihat dengan lebih teliti dan anda akan perasan bahawa versi ini menggunakan lebih banyak bahan kulit berbanding plastik untuk panelnya. Ia menggabungkan fesyen dan motosikal melalui kreativiti lestari. Dengan memanfaatkan pakaian dan peralatan yang tidak terjual dari acara lumba sebelumnya, Freaky Debbie dan Ruleshaker mencipta sebuah motosikal kustom yang unik, lengkap dengan pakaian sepadan—di mana setiap butiran menceritakan kisah inovasi semula dan reka bentuk yang bijak.

2. MIRANDA – Honda Motorsport Las Rozas (Sepanyol)

Dinamakan sempena anak perempuan ketua projek, Miranda adalah penghormatan bergaya kepada semangat memberontak motosikal vintaj. Dibina oleh pasukan semua wanita, ia menampilkan penutup lampu depan yang anggun dengan skrin bersepadu, tempat duduk yang disemak semula dan skema warna merah jambu putih dan gula-gula yang menonjol. Peningkatan seperti ekzos aliran bebas Arrow dan penyerap hentakan belakang YSS meningkatkan bunyi dan prestasi.

3. THE ROCKET LION – Honda Motorsport Las Rozas (Sepanyol)

The Rocket Lion ialah surat cinta kepada pelumba kafe klasik, menggabungkan warisan Honda dengan karya custom yang berani. Fairing RC181 yang diubah suai dan penutup belakang tersuai membentuk siluetnya yang unik, manakala tempat duduk yang diilhamkan GP memperhalusi kedudukan tunggangan. Dikemas dalam warna rasmi Honda dengan logo gaya patina, ia menampilkan tayar Michelin Road Classic, perkakasan titanium, dan keseimbangan sempurna antara prestasi dan karakter vintej.

4. CLUBMAN TT – Mallorca Motos (Sepanyol)

Mallorca Motos menyalurkan semangat perlumbaan jalanan 70-an dengan Clubman TT. Hendal dan tempat duduk yang dipendekkan dengan bonggol bersepadu mencipta posisi menunggang yang menunduk, manakala ekzos patah yang dihitamkan menambah impak visual dan bunyi. Kitaran cat melalui rona biru dan hijau, diilhamkan oleh laut dan hutan Isle of Man, dan roda hadapan dan belakang yang berbeza melengkapkan binaan yang menarik ini.

5. HACHIMAAN – MAAN Motocicli Audaci (Itali)

MAAN Motocicli Audaci kembali dengan Hachimaan, seorang Bobber Jepun yang dinamakan sempena Dewa Perang Shinto. Bahagian belakang hardtail tersuai, tangki peanut minimalis dan hendal bebas tuil menghasilkan bentuk yang elegan. Cat biru berkilauan dengan nyalaan api, penukar gear dengan klac kaki dan ekzos custom menambah kedalaman dan kesenian pada mesin rohani yang berani ini.

6. SILVER BULLET – Farnham Honda (UK)

Silver Bullet menampilkan gaya klasik pelumba kafe British. Dari fairing ke tangki aluminium yang digilap dan tempat duduk tunggal yang anggun, ia memancarkan tujuannya. Hendal jenis clip-on rendah dan set pemijak kaki menambah gaya agresif, manakala garisan jalinan dan cakera gelombang menandakan brek yang kuat. Tayar perlumbaan melengkapkan penampilan prestasi.

7. MIA – TubaisMoto (Portugal)

Mia menghidupkan bakat sukan permotoran 60-an, dengan fairing hadapan, skrin retro dan casis hitam yang membezakan skema cat yang diinspirasikan oleh HRC merah-putih-biru. Hidung ke ekor berjalur pudar secara halus di atas tudung, menambah gerakan pada rupa. Roda jejari hitam, ekzos bersangkut rendah dan lampu ekor LED padat menggabungkan bentuk vintaj dengan fungsi moden.

8. SWISS WING – Pellicari Design (Switzerland)

Swiss Wing ialah ciptaan unik yang lahir daripada kerjasama antara Honda Moto Switzerland dan Pellicari Design, yang diilhamkan oleh kejuruteraan aeronautik. Pengubahsuaian termasuk roda unik, ribet, hos dan skru yang dipinjam daripada sektor penerbangan. Selain itu, terdapat tempat duduk baharu, ekzos yang direka semula dan bar hendal yang direka bentuk semula. Rekabentuk ini menggabungkan tayar dinding putih retro, suspensi belakang hitam untuk penampilan sporty, dan warna merah gula-gula yang membangkitkan bendera Switzerland kami—menukar motosikal ini menjadi karya berani yang bersedia untuk melonjak ke tahap baharu.

9. GRAND (B)RIX – Sporty Bike (Jerman)

GRAND (B)RIX menampilkan pengaruh pelumba jalan raya dan gaya pelumba kafe. Sudut fork yang disemak semula menjatuhkan bahagian hadapan untuk pengendalian yang lebih agresif, dipasangkan dengan bar hendal baharu, cermin hujung hendal dan genggaman custom. Kemasan emas membezakan ekzos yang dihitamkan dengan pembalut haba, dan tempat duduk yang dijahit custom membulatkan wataknya yang gelap dan bertujuan.

10. MBX350 – Servihonda Málaga (Sepanyol)

MBX350 menyelam ke tahun 80-an dengan kemasan nostalgia kepada MBX80 yang legenda. Penggayaan sporty, dengan lampu segi empat dan skema cat yang setia mencipta semula era dengan ketepatan. Bahagian bersejarah yang disesuaikan dan roda, fork dan lengan ayun warna perak meningkatkan keasliannya. Cermin  dan pengikat ekzos Tavi yang gempal menyatukan pelumba retro kesetiaan tinggi ini.

11. FTR350 – Vertu Honda (UK)

FTR350 diambil daripada DNA motosikal lumba lasak trek rata, menggabungkan minimalisme dengan sikap mentah. Tempat duduk meneruskan kelengkungan tangki, dan papan nombor hadapan menggantikan lampu depan untuk motosikal pelumba jati ini. Dikemas dalam warna merah custom dengan grafik, binaan ini termasuk roda wayar, garis brek berjalin dan ekzos tersuai yang dipasang tinggi dengan muffler CR Racefit untuk prestasi dan bunyi yang agresif.

The Honda Customs 2025 competition in Europe is back for its sixth annual instalment and this time, it is the Honda CB350RS (called the GB350S in Europe) that was chosen as the template.

The winner will be determined by the number of votes received. You can vote via the https://www.hondacustoms.com/en website. Last year’s winner was Bunker Garage from Turkey with their CL500-based café racer.

The CB350RS is canvas that begs to be customised and that is what Honda turned to this year. Great choice!

Here is a look at the eleven entries:

1. RE: CRAFTED OKIRA – Freaky Debbie (designer), Ruleshaker (builder) – (France)

Look closer and you can see that this iteration features more leather than plastics for its panels. It blends fashion and motorcycling through creative sustainability. Using unsold apparel and gear from past racing events, Freaky Debbie and Ruleshaker built a unique custom bike with a matching outfit—where every detail tells a story of reinvention and smart design.

2. MIRANDA – Honda Motorsport Las Rozas (Spain)

Named after the daughter of the project leader, Miranda is a stylish tribute to the rebellious spirit of vintage motorcycles. Built by an all-female team, it features a sleek headlight cowl with integrated screen, a revised seat, and a standout white and candy pink color scheme. Upgrades like an Arrow free-flow exhaust and YSS rear shocks enhance both sound and performance.

3. THE ROCKET LION – Honda Motorsport Las Rozas (Spain)

The Rocket Lion is a love letter to classic café racers, combining Honda’s heritage with bold custom work. A modified RC181 fairing and custom rear cowling shape its unique silhouette, while the GP-inspired seat refines the riding position. Finished in an official Honda color with a patina-style logo, it features Michelin Road Classic tyres, titanium hardware, and a perfect balance of performance and vintage character.

4. CLUBMAN TT – Mallorca Motos (Spain)

Mallorca Motos channels the spirit of 70s street racing with the Clubman TT. Half handlebars and a shortened seat with integrated hump create a lowered silhouette, while a blacked-out shotgun exhaust adds visual punch and sound. The paintwork cycles through blue and green tones, inspired by the Isle of Man’s sea and forests, and the contrasting front and rear wheels complete this striking build.

5. HACHIMAAN – MAAN Motocicli Audaci (Italy)

MAAN Motocicli Audaci returns with Hachimaan, a Japanese-Bobber named after the Shinto God of War. A custom hardtail rear, minimalist peanut tank, and lever-free bars create a stripped-down, elegant form. Glistening blue paint with ghosted flames, a shifter with foot clutch, and a custom exhaust add depth and artistry to this bold, spiritual machine.

6. SILVER BULLET – Farnham Honda (UK)

Silver Bullet is a classic take on British café racer style. From the nose-cone fairing to the brushed aluminium tank and sleek single seat, it exudes purpose. Low clip-ons and rear sets on machined hangers add aggression, while braided lines and a wave disc hint at strong braking. Racing slicks complete the performance look.

7. MIA – TubaisMoto (Portugal)

Mia brings 60s motorsport flair to life, with a bold frontal fairing, retro screen, and a black chassis contrasting a red-white-blue HRC-inspired paint scheme. A stripe running nose to tail fades subtly over the cowl, adding motion to the look. Black spoked wheels, a low-slung exhaust, and a compact LED tail light blend vintage form with modern function.

8. SWISS WING – Pellicari Design (Switzerland)

The Swiss Wing is a unique creation born from the collaboration between Honda Moto SWitzerland and Pellicari Design, inspired by aeronautics. The modifications include unique full wheels, louvers, rivets, hoses, and screws borrowed from aviation. Additionally, there is a new seat, a reimagined exhaust line, and a redesigned handlebar. The design incorporates retro whitewall tires, black rear suspensions for a sporty look, and a candy red that evokes our Swiss flag—transforming this motorcycle into a bold work ready to soar to new heights.

9. GRAND (B)RIX – Sporty Bike (Germany)

The GRAND (B)RIX is a low-key powerhouse with road racer influence and café racer style. A revised fork angle drops the front for a more aggressive rake, paired with new handlebars, bar-end mirrors, and custom grips. Gold accents contrast the blacked-out exhaust with heat wrap, and the custom stitched seat rounds off its dark, purposeful character.

10. MBX350 – Servihonda Málaga (Spain)

The MBX350 dives into the 80s with a nostalgic nod to the legendary MBX80. Sharp, squared-off styling and a faithful paint scheme recreate the era with precision. Adapted historical parts and silver-finished wheels, forks and trailing arm elevate its authenticity. Period-correct mirrors and a stubby Tavi exhaust tie together this high-fidelity retro racer.

11. FTR350 – Vertu Honda (UK)

The FTR350 draws from Flat Track DNA, fusing minimalism with raw attitude. A sculpted upswept seat continues the tank’s curvature, and a front number board replaces the headlight for that true racer vibe. Finished in custom red with bold graphics, the build includes wire wheels, braided brake lines, and a high-mounted custom exhaust with CR Racefit muffler for aggressive performance and sound.

The BMW RT pretty much set the standard for the more tourer-biased sport touring segment. But wait, sport tourer?

A long time ago, sport-tourers were standard motorcycles/roadsters that were equipped windscreens and luggage. However, the segment was further (mini) segmented to those that are more sport-oriented versus those that are more touring-oriented.

The former includes madcap motorcycles such as the BMW S 1000 XR and M 1000 XR, Kawasaki Ninja H2 SX, Kawasaki 1400GTR, KTM 1390 Super Duke GT, Ducati Multistrada V4, and Suzuki Hayabusa (yes the ‘Busa is considered a sport-tourer).

The latter includes the BMW RT, Honda NT1100, Kawasaki Ninja 1000, Yamaha FJR1300ES, etc.

But how about the likes of the BMW K 1600 series? It belongs to the full-dress tourer segment. Yes, it covers the Honda Gold Wing, Kawasaki Voyager, Harley-Davidson Electra Glide, … You get the idea.

More about the BMW RT

First and foremost, the RT, at least beginning from the 1996 R 1150 RT, looked large, heavy and ungainly. However, we ourselves found out about how sweet and comfortable the RT series is. They felt more like large scooters rather than motorcycles that you risk throwing your back out by lifting it off its sidestand.

There are many reasons why the RT is chosen as a police or escort motorcycle the world over, including here in Malaysia.

Really. You need to ride one to fall in love with it.

History of the BMW RT

Anyway, back to the main title, let us trace the evolution of the much-beloved RT, beginning with the name, of course. “RT” stands for “Reise-Tourer” (Travel-Tourer).

R 100 RT (1978)

The original RT, based on the R 100 S and shares certain attributes with the R 100 RS. The R 100 RT has a full fairing and more upright riding position. It set the standard for BMW’s touring motorcycles and was popular among long-distance riders.

  • A full fairing (unlike earlier naked or semi-faired BMWs).

  • A 98 hp, 980cc “airhead” (air-cooled) Boxer engine.

  • Comfortable seating, wind protection, and luggage options.

R 1100 RT (1995)

Introduced along with new generation of BMW “oilhead” Boxer engine and a more advanced chassis. The oilhead engine, as the name suggested, was oil-cooled. This engine would become BMW’s signature for many years to come.

  • 1,085cc, 90 hp engine.

  • Improved aerodynamics, ABS (optional), and electronic fuel injection.

R 1150 RT (2001)

Still an “oilhead,” the Boxer engine underwent several revisions including enlarged capacity and power output.

  • 1,130cc, 95 hp engine.

  • More refined suspension (Telelever front, Paralever rear).

  • Better wind protection and onboard electronics.

R 1200 RT (2005)

The last of the “oilhead” generation RT, but was considered the one of the best until today. BMW reworked the engine and chassis again to provide even more performance and comfort.

There were two (sub-)versions of this generation, namely:

  • “Hexhead” (2005–2009): 1,170cc, 110 hp, with improved engine cooling.

  • “Camhead” (2010–2013): Minor updates, including revised cylinder heads.

Main features included:

  • Dynamic ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment).

  • Advanced electronics (traction control, ride modes).

  • Heated grips, cruise control, and a larger fairing.

R 1200 RT (2014)

The Boxer was finally liquid-cooled to keep up with producing more power and emissions standards, leading to being dubbed as the “waterhead,” or “wethead.”

Main features followed those of the previous R 1200 RT, albeit enhanced further.

  • Dynamic ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment).

  • Advanced electronics (traction control, ride modes).

  • Heated grips, cruise control, and a larger fairing.

R 1250 RT (2019)

The R 1250 RT made its debut following BMW upgrading the Boxer to include their ShiftCam VVT technology. And of course, the new bike had many new features too, including radar-assistance in the latter stages. It remains one of the most technologically advanced and comfortable touring bikes on the market.

  • 1,254cc ShiftCam boxer engine (136 hp, variable valve timing).

  • 10.25-inch TFT display (with connectivity, navigation, and multimedia).

  • Radar-assisted adaptive cruise control (optional).

  • Enhanced rider aids (cornering ABS, dynamic traction control).

R 1300 RT (2025)

BMW introduced the all-new R 1300 GS for 2024, and of course, the RT follows soon after. This is an all-new RT, along with a completely new design which breaks away from the previous two R 1200 RT and subsequent R 1250 RT generations. It is 12 kg (wet) lighter than the last R 1250 RT, too.

Key features:

  • New 1,300cc ShiftCam Boxer Twin, which produces 145 hp (107 kW) @ 7,750 RPM, and 149 Nm (110 lb-ft) @ 6,500 RPM.

  • More compact & lighter than the R 1250 RT engine.

  • 6-speed transmission with optional Shift Assistant Pro (clutchless up/down shifts).

  • Improved fuel efficiency and smoother power delivery.

  • New Steel Bridge Frame (lighter & stiffer for better handling).

  • EVO Telelever Front Suspension (revised for improved feedback).

  • EVO Paralever Rear Suspension (enhanced stability).

  • Optional Dynamic ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment) – automatically adapts to riding conditions.

  • 10.25-inch Full-Color TFT Display (with smartphone connectivity).

  • Riding Modes: Rain, Road, Dynamic, Eco, plus optional Pro modes (customizable).

  • Advanced Safety Features:

    • ABS Pro (Cornering ABS)

    • Dynamic Traction Control (DTC)

    • Hill Start Control (HSC)

  • Optional Radar-Assisted Systems:

    • Active Cruise Control (ACC)

    • Front Collision Warning (FCW)

    • Lane Change Warning (SWW)

  • Ergonomically Optimized Seat (adjustable height: 760–800 mm).

  • Improved Wind Protection (electrically adjustable windscreen).

  • Heated Grips & Seat (standard in some markets).

  • Integrated Luggage System (side cases optional, up to 29L each).

  • Keyless Ride & Central Locking.

  • Slimmer & More Aggressive Styling (LED lighting, sharper lines).

  • Reduced Weight (~12 kg lighter than R 1250 RT).

  • Optimized Airflow (better wind protection with less buffeting).

  • Comfort Package: Heated seats, centerstand, etc.

  • Premium Package: Radar-assisted systems, tire pressure monitoring.

  • Sport Package: Dynamic ESA, Shift Assistant Pro.

 

Universiti Putra Malaysia baru-baru ini menjalankan satu kajian dan mendapati bahawa ramai penunggang motosikal kurang kesedaran tentang keselamatan tayar. Keselamatan tayar bukan hanya tentang jenis kompaun yang terbaik, tetapi juga merangkumi tekanan pengembungan, keadaan tayar, dan usia. Itulah sebabnya kami memutuskan untuk menyusun 5 petua penjagaan tayar mudah ini.

Jadi, jika anda baru memasang set tayar yang sangat “grip” atau membeli motosikal baru, tugas utama adalah menjaga tayar-tayar tersebut agar mereka memberikan prestasi terbaik dan keyakinan di mana sahaja anda pergi.

Tayar memang memerlukan sedikit penjagaan, walaupun tidak intensif dan tidak memerlukan pengetahuan teknikal tahap kejuruteraan automotif. Ingat, anda mungkin memiliki motosikal terpantas di dunia, tetapi ia tidak akan ke mana tanpa “donat getah” itu.

 

1. “Run in” dengan betul

Penjagaan tayar bermula sebaik sahaja anda memasang set baharu. Ingat istilah ini: “Tayar mempunyai ingatan.” Cara anda memecahkannya menentukan prestasinya kelak.

Jadi, berhati-hati dalam 300–500 km pertama. Elakkan pecutan dan brek keras, serta sengetan maksimum.

Percubaan untuk menunggang laju dengan tayar baharu boleh membawa padah kerana sesetengah tayar baharu mungkin dilapisi dengan bahan pelepas acuan (mould release). Permukaan licin dan berkilat ini perlu dihapuskan sebelum kita boleh menunggang secara maksimum.

Memang ada tayar yang dihasilkan tanpa bahan pelepas ini, tetapi “run in” tayar secara berhati-hati membolehkan komponen dan kompaun dalam tayar menjadi stabil. Tayar diperbuat daripada puluhan (jika bukan ratusan) kompaun berbeza, dan ia memerlukan haba (daripada penungganan) untuk “memasaknya.”

Mengasak tayar terlalu awal menyebabkan kompaun mengeras sebelum mencapai separuh hayatnya. Inilah sebab utama mengapa sesetengah penunggang mengadu tayar mereka hilang cengkaman dan keanjalan apabila mula haus. Ya, inilah “ingatan” yang kita maksudkan.

2. Periksa tekanan

Tekanan pengembungan tayar adalah segalanya.

  • Tekanan rendah menyebabkan tayar terlalu panas dan cepat haus. Selain itu, ia meningkatkan rintangan gelongsor, menjadikan motosikal kurang responsif dan meningkatkan penggunaan minyak.

  • Tekanan berlebihan pula membuatkan bahagian tengah tayar cepat haus. Traksi dan keselesaan juga terjejas kerana tayar tidak dapat menyerap ketidakteraturan permukaan jalan.

Setiap tayar mempunyai struktur berbeza—ada yang keras, ada yang lembut—tetapi tekanan yang disyorkan oleh pengeluar motosikal adalah yang terbaik untuk menampung berat dan prestasi motosikal. Anda boleh menambah tekanan jika membawa beban berat, tetapi lakukan dalam had munasabah (±10 kPa).

Tip tambahan: Jangan bergantung pada meter pam tayar di stesen minyak kerana ia mungkin tidak dikalibrasi dengan betul. Lebih baik beli tolok tekanan udara tayar yang berkualiti dan bawa bersama. Sebaik-baiknya tekanan diperiksa sebelum menunggang atau sekurang-kurangnya setiap 2–3 hari. Pastikan tayar dalam keadaan sejuk semasa mengisi udara.

3. Periksa keadaan tayar

Lakukan pemeriksaan setiap kali sebelum menunggang, semasa mengisi udara atau membersihkan motosikal. Cari:

  • Objek asing (paku, batu kecil).
  • Kebocoran.
  • Retakan.
  • Haus tidak sekata – mungkin disebabkan oleh pelarasan rantai mahupun suspensi.

Jika ada masalah, tangani segera.

4. Bersihkan tayar

Ini bukan sekadar untuk penampilan, tetapi membersihkan tayar membantu mengesan kerosakan awal. Gunakan pembersih yang tidak menghasikis — elakkan pelarut keras seperti petrol, minyak tanah, atau diesel kerana ia boleh mengeraskan getah. Tayar yang keras kurang cengkaman dan mudah retak.

5. Cara membaikki tayar yang pancit

Untuk tayar tanpa tiub (tubeless), cara terbaik adalah menggantikannya kerana objek yang menembus tayar mungkin merosakkan struktur tayar yang memberikan bentuk, kekuatan, dan keselamatan.

Namun, jika anda memilih untuk membaiki:

  • Bawa ke bengkel reputasi baik untuk tampal dari dalam.

  • Kit cacing hanyalah untuk kecemasan dalam memberikan kita masa untuk ke bengkel terdekat, oleh itu, jangan biarkan ia selama-lamanya.

BONUS 1: Usia tayar

Tayar lama (biasanya 5 tahun ke atas) menjadi keras dan kurang cengkaman. Anda boleh semak kod pengeluaran pada sisi tayar. Contohnya seperti gambar di bawah di mana “0117” bersamaan minggu pertama, tahun 2017.

BONUS 2: Penunjuk kehausan tayar (TWI)

Setiap tayar mempunyai penunjuk tahap kehausan tayar (tyre wear indicator). Anda boleh cari satu bentuk segitiga di tepi tayar dengan huruf “TWI” dan ikutnya ke permukaan tayar di mana terdapat bonggolan kecil. Apabila bunga tayar sudah sampai ke tahap itu, ia bermaksud tayar itu telah kira haus walaupun belum botak sepenuhnya. Ini kerana tayar tersebut sudah dikira tidak dapat mengalirkan air dengan tahap optimum.

Penutup

Hanya 5 tip petua penjagaan tayar yang mudah ini boleh memastikan tayar anda tahan lama, selamat, dan menjimatkan wang.

The Universiti Putra Malaysia conducted a study recently and found out that many motorcyclists lack tyre safety knowledge. Tyre safety is not only about which compound is best, but also covers inflation pressure, condition of the tyre, age. That is why we decided to put together these 5 simple tyre care tips.

So since you have just mounted a set of super sticky tyres or bought a new motorcycle, the main task is maintain them so that they provide you with the best performance and confidence wherever you go.

Tyres do require some TLC, although not intensive and does not require automotive engineering level technical know-how. Remember, you may have the fastest bike on the planet, but it goes nowhere without those rubber donuts.

1. Break them in properly

Tyre care begins immediately after you install a new set. Remember this term: “Tyres have memory.” It means how you break them in determines how they perform later.

So, be gentle with them for the first 300 to 500 km. It means no super hard acceleration and braking, and maximum lean.

Pushing on a new tyre will bear disastrous results as some new tyres may be coated with mould release. This shiny, slippery surface needs to be scrubbed off before we can begin riding on them to the maximum.

Granted, there are tyres produced without using mould release, but breaking in the tyre gently and progressively lets the different components and compounds in the tyre to stabilise, regardless. Tyres are made from tens, if not hundreds, of different compounds and they need heat (generated from riding) to “cook” them.

Pushing on the tyres too early causes the compound hardening up even before it reaches its halfway point. This is the main reason why some riders complain about their tyres losing grip and elasticity when they start to wear. Yup, this is the “memory” we spoke about.

2. Check the pressure

Tyre inflation pressure is everything.

Under-inflation causes the tyre to overheat and wear out quickly. Additionally, it results in higher fuel consumption and sluggish handling due to increased rolling resistance.

On the other hand, over-inflation wears out the centre of the tyre quickly. Besides that, traction and comfort will suffer as the tyre could not conform and absorb irregularities on the road surface.

Granted, different tyres have different constructions, thus some are harder, while some are softer, which leads to the temptation to under-inflate or over-inflate them However, the recommended tyre pressures are what the motorcycle manufacturer deems as necessary to support the weight and performance envelope of the bike. You may of course increase the pressure should you carry heavy loads, but do so within sane amounts (increase or decrease by 10 kPa).

Another tip: Do not rely on the gauge at petrol stations because they are not calibrated over time. The best solution is by buying a good tyre pressure gauge so you can bring it with you on the bike. The correct habit is to check the pressure every time before you ride, but once every two to three days is fine too. Do check the pressure and inflate when the tyres are cold.

3. Inspect the tyres

This should ideally be done every time before you ride, at the same time when you are inflating them or cleaning your bike. Look for punctures, foreign objects, cracks or unusual wear patterns. They must be dealt with immediately.

4. Clean the tyres

It is not just about aesthetics, but cleaning the tyres allows you to spot deformities and damages, hence averting potential disasters. But do clean them with specific tyre cleaners. Do not use harsh solvents such as petrol, kerosene or diesel, as they will cause the rubber to harden. Consequently, your tyres will not grip like they should and crack quickly.

 

5. Puncture repair

The best fix for a punctured tubeless tyre is to replace the it altogether. This is because the object which poked through would have cut through the sections that give the tyre its shape, strength, performance and safety.

But we understand that most of us choose to repair that puncture, instead.

If you have tubeless tyres, it is best to visit a reputable workshop and have them remove the tyre and patch the tyre from the inside. Keep in mind that using a puncture repair kit (or “cacing” as it is commonly called) is a temporary measure to help you ride to the nearest workshop. It should not be left in place for the entire lifespan of the tyre.

BONUS

The tyre’s age plays a huge part in safety, too. The compound in old tyres can cause the tyre to be harder thus it may not provide the level of grip and comfort as new tyres. Tyres can generally last up to 5 years. You can check against the manufacturing code on your tyre.

In the picture above, “0117.” The first two digits mean the week of the year, while the last two digits correspond to the year. So, in this case, the tyre was made in the first week of 2017.

Conclusion

So, there you go, just five simple tips to ensure that your tyres last as long as their intended lifespans. Remember that keeping your tyres in good condition ensures your safety besides providing enjoyment and saves you money, but also ensures your safety.

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