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There are insurance companies that take your money and give you coverage in the event of an accident or a breakdown. And there are insurance companies that go further than providing simple coverage.

Allianz General Insurance Company (Malaysia) Berhad (“Allianz General”) is one of those companies. In terms of numbers, Allianz Group is one of the biggest insurance providers in the world. It operates in over 70  countries, employs 150,000 people, and serves over 100 million customers globally.

On the local front, Allianz Malaysia Berhad has 32 branches nationwide and offers life and general insurance.

We recently caught up with Sazali bin Abdul Rahman, the Deputy Chief Sales Officer of Allianz General Insurance Company (Malaysia) Berhad, to learn what makes the company tick, how it works with its customers, and how its policies benefit motorcyclists.

Despite his position, Sazali is a humble man. Quick-witted and always with a joke to spare, he has all the facts and figures at the back of his mind. His team had prepared all the important figures for him, yet never once did he glance at the paper during our hour-long interview.

He is also a keen biker, which helps him understand what motorcyclists need on the road.

When asked what makes Allianz Motorcycle Plus different from the rest, he said, “What makes us different from the others is that we basically put a lot of elements and components into the policy, and we don’t charge anything.

When you buy a motorcycle policy, there are always things you need to add. You need to add flood coverage, personal accident coverage and such. So, we designed a policy that has all these little components, then offered it for free in one policy.

Sazali is quick to add that awareness is very important for policyholders. More often than not, we only think about things after they have happened. For example, people usually don’t think about floods. That is why Allianz General has taken it a step further by providing coverage from the start.

That’s not all, though. Sazali also lauds the Allianz Road Rangers service, which is provided for specific Allianz General products. “Allianz is always there to help you when you are in trouble,” says Sazali.

I want people to experience our service. Insurance companies almost always only help you when you are in trouble or after an incident has happened, but not Allianz. Even our claim approval rate is quite fast as compared to some of the industry peers,” he adds.

We wanted to know more about the flood coverage though, so we probed further.

Sazali is keen to explain, “In the event of a flood, we will provide RM1,000 to the policyholder for motorcycles below 250cc if the motorcycle is damaged due to flood. On top of that, there is also full flood coverage. So, if your motorcycle is washed away by a flood, we will pay you a full sum for the recommended value of the affected motorcycle, and on top of that, we will also pay the aforementioned RM1,000 as flood relief.

How is this different from other insurance providers? Well, for starters, the full flood coverage is offered as part of the policy, and you don’t have to pay extra for it. You also get the RM1,000 flood relief.

On the topic of Allianz Bike Warrior, it was the first of its kind in the market when it was first introduced. It helps by providing roadside assistance for motorcycles above 250cc and has now evolved into a household name.

However, Allianz General and the people behind the company are not the ones to sit on their laurels; in fact, they are constantly evolving. “We are now looking into how we can amplify the Bike Warrior program further because I think we now have new technology with EV bikes coming, so we are exploring that possibility as well,” explains Sazali.

On a final note, we also asked Sazali about how fast it takes to make a claim because we have heard some horror stories from the industry about claims taking weeks and months to be approved.

It is super easy to make a claim with Allianz. We have a dedicated mobile application called MyAllianz, where the claimant can see the progress of a claim. You can see when your chosen workshop has submitted a claim, what the progress is like and the status of everything. There is no manual intervention.

Addressing claim processes, Sazali emphasised efficiency: “Our Fast Track claim process ensures an adjuster is assigned immediately upon claim notification, and the claim is approved immediately following the inspection. The only time there might be a delay is when there is a parts delay or an error from the workshop, which has nothing to do with the insurance company,” he explains.

Before ending though, Sazali also pointed out that Allianz General is one of the only insurance companies that directly engages with road users to enhance road safety. Working with Miros, Allianz General provided free Sirim-approved replacement helmets to motorcyclists.

Insurance companies are usually cold fronts that seemingly do nothing but take our money. This interview provided a refreshing perspective on what goes on behind the scenes, the challenges involved, and the warmth of the people behind the company.

So, the next time you need to renew your insurance policy, you know where to look.

Gearing is an essential factor to extract the maximum potential of your motorcycle – be it for performance or smooth riding.

Unfortunately, this knowledge is lost among many current motorcyclists. Any race team will tell you that the wrong gearing selection will have their rider either struggling with acceleration, or deceleration, or cornering speed, or rear tyre traction, or all of these.

What is “gearing”?

Gearing alludes to the gear ratios. Gear ratios influence the translation of the gearbox’s torque output to the driving wheel. But to simplify, gear ratios influences how your motorcycle accelerates, decelerates (through engine braking), cornering speed, and traction.

Race bikes and sportbikes have “cassette-type” transmissions that can be pulled out quickly and lets the race technician change the sizes of individuals gears inside, in addition to the final drive gearing. We on street bikes, on the other hand, rely on altering the final drive gearing.

By the way, final gearing means the relation between the front and rear sprocket sizes. Gear sizes are determined by the number of teeth.

How does it work?

Gear ratio is calculated by diving the size of the rear sprocket with the front sprocket. For example:

Front sprocket size: 15 (teeth)

Rear sprocket size: 46

So, the ratio = 46 / 15 = 3.066 ≈ 3.07 : 1 (read as 3.07 to 1)

Meaning, the rear sprocket turns 3.07 times in order for the rear wheel to turn once.

Shorter gearing

To illustrate this easier, let us take another example but based on the above.

We keep the front sprocket size the same: 15

We replace the rear sprocket to a bigger one: 50

So, the new ratio is = 50 /15 = 3.33 : 1

Thus now, the sprocket needs to turn more to rotate the rear wheel once around. As such, more engine is required. This known shorter gearing (point below).

From the seat:

  • The motorcycle now accelerates faster.
  • Engine back torque (engine braking) is more pronounced when we roll off or shut the throttle.
  • The bike slows down much faster.
  • Throttle changes result in more abrupt power delivery.
  • It can also make the bike feel heavier to steer through corners as speed rubs off much quicker.
  • Resorting to using a higher gear for corners may result in freewheeling into the corner which scares many riders.
  • Shorter gearing results in more engine vibrations during cruising due to the higher revs.
  • Fuel consumption is increased due to higher engine RPM at a given speed.
  • This is called shorter gearing, as the top speeds achievable by each gear is now lower due to engine needing higher RPMs to turn the rear wheel.
  • Shorter gearing is great if you stay in an area with many sharp and short corners, such as Ulu Yam, or if you are riding at a track with short corners and straights such as the old Batu Tiga Circuit.
Longer gearing

Let us explore the other end of the spectrum.

We keep the front sprocket size the same: 15

We replace the rear sprocket to a smaller one: 40

So, the new ratio is = 40 /15 = 2.666 ≈ 2.67 : 1

With this change, the sprocket needs to turn more to rotate the rear wheel once around. As such, more engine is required. This known longer gearing (point below).

From the seat:

  • The motorcycle now accelerates slower.
  • Engine back torque (engine braking) is less pronounced when we roll off or shut the throttle.
  • The bike takes longer to slow down.
  • Throttle changes result in smoother power delivery.
  • It can also make the bike feels easier to steer through corners as more speed is maintained.
  • The rider may resort to using a lower gear for corners for more stronger engine braking.
  • Longer gearing results in less engine vibrations during cruising due to the lower revs.
  • Fuel consumption is reduced due to lower engine RPM at a given speed.
  • This is called longer gearing, as the top speeds achievable in each gear is now higher as the engine needs fewere RPMs to turn the rear wheel.
  • Longer gearing is great if you stay in an area where you need to commute on highways.
  • Likewise, you can change to a longer gearing if you are going on a long-distance tour which covers highways.
  • Longer than stock gearing also benefits motorcycles with engines modified for more power.
  • However, longer gearing results in sluggish acceleration from a standstill, and overly long gearing requires slipping the clutch to avoid stalling the engine.
Front vs. Rear Sprocket

Replacing the rear sprocket is an easier and quicker job as it is attached to the exposed rear wheel, compared to the front sprocket which is hidden behind a cover.

However, replacing the front sprocket for gearing ratio changes is better as the chain does not need to wrap around a small circumference.

Then again, certain motorcycles may not have enough space to permit a larger front sprocket.

Bayangkan scenario ini: Anda tiba di sebuah selekoh. Ia kelihatan seperti selekoh yang laju, jadi anda pun menyusur masuk. Malangnya, anda barulah sedar bahawa puncak selekoh ini sebenarnya lebih jauh ke dalam. Dalam erti lain, selekoh itu sebenarnya lebih tajam. Tetapi kelajuan motosikal masih terlalu tinggi dan anda mula bergerak ke bahagian luar selekoh dan terbabas (‘overshoot‘).

Apa yang perlu anda lakukan? Apa yang boleh anda lakukan?

Kemahiran asas ketika menunggang motosikal

Terdapat lima kemahiran asas yang WAJIB dimiliki oleh setiap penunggang motosikal:

  1. Kemahiran mengemudi.
  2. Penglihatan.
  3. Kawalan pendikit.
  4. Kawalan brek.
  5. Kedudukan/kawalan badan.

Tidak semestinya dalam susunan itu, tetapi kemahiran ini perlu sentiasa dikuasai.

Mari kita ingat lima perkara ini semasa kita membawa anda melalui pengalaman menunggang yang mendebarkan.

Jangan panik!

Ini ialah perkara paling penting. Sensai panik hanya akan memburukkan keadaan—padahal anda sebenarnya masih boleh pulang dengan selamat kepada orang tersayang.

Perkara pertama yang terjadi ketika panik ialah badan anda menjadi tegang. Badan yang tegang akan mengunci posisi anggota badan, menyebabkan anda tidak mampu memberikan daya kemudi motosikal dengan berkesan.

Tumpukan pandangan ke dalam selekoh

Motosikal akan menuju ke mana anda memandang. Jadi, jika anda panik dan memandang ke kawasan di luar selekoh, anda akan terbabas.

Cara terbaik untuk mengatasi panik ialah dengan memusingkan kepala ke arah selekoh bersama pandangan mata. Perbuatan sedemikian akan meredakan rasa panik kerana anda tahu di mana selekoh dan akhirnya titik keluar selekoh.

Tambahkan daya kemudi

Ingat teknik countersteer: Tolak hendal bahagian dalam selekoh (tolak kiri untuk belok kiri/tolak kanan untuk belok kanan) serta tarik bahagian luar dengan pantas. Cara mengemudi ini dilakukan oleh penunggang motosikal yang ‘advanced’ dan motosikal akan lebih membelok dengan lebih cepat ke dalam selekoh.

Kawal pendikit

Patutkah tutup pendikit? Buka pendikit? Atau kekalkan sahaja?

Jawapannya: jangan buat apa-apa perubahan yang mendadak.

  • Jika anda sudah menutup pendikit ketika mula masuk selekoh, biarkan ia tertutup.
  • Jika pendikit sedikit terbuka, kekalkan di posisi itu – jangan ditutup atau dibuka lebih lanjut.

Sebarang perubahan pada pendikit akan mengalihkan berat motosikal dan mengganggu keseimbangan casis.

  • Berat beralih ke tayar depan.
  • Motosikal akan ‘overshoot’.
  • Tapak tayar hadapan melebar dan meningkatkan geseran
  • Pengendalian motosikal menjadi “berat” dan susah untuk dibelokkan.

Sebaliknya, jika anda menambah pendikit:

  • Berat beralih ke belakang.
  • Tayar hadapan menjadi ringan (tapak sentuhan tayar mengecil).
  • Tapak kecil kurang responsif terhadap daya kemudi.
  • Akibatnya: motosikal cenderung ‘overshoot.’
  • Pentingnya mengekalkan pendikit:
  • Keseimbangan casis kekal stabil.
  • Daya kemudi konsisten dan boleh diramal.
  • Jika terpaksa kurangkan pendikit:
  • Lakukan secara beransur-ansur (bukan tutup tiba-tiba).
  • Putar pendikit ke bawah dengan lancar.

Ketika keluar selekoh:

  • Mulakan buka pendikit untuk menstabilkan motosikal.
  • Gunakan pendikit untuk pacuan keluar yang terkawal.

Ingat: Pendikit bukan suis ‘ON/OFF’! Sebaliknya ia alat untuk mengawal:

  1. Kelajuan.
  2. Keseimbangan casis.
  3. Tahap cengkaman tayar.
Boleh brek atau tidak?

Sebelum masuk selekoh:

  • Boleh gunakan brek depan tetapi;
    • Jangan cengkam tuil brek ibarat hendak menghancurkan batu.
    • Sebaliknya, perah perlahan-lahan untuk rasa ‘gigitan’ brek.
    • Lepaskan tekanan secara beransur semasa memerengkan motosikal.
    • Buka pendikit setelah nampak laluan keluar dan brek dilepaskan.
    • Teknik ini dipanggil ‘trail braking.”

Ketika motosikal sudah condong di dalam selekoh:

  • Jangan sentuh brek depan – ini undang bencana!
  • Sebalinknya tekan brek belakang sedikit kerana ia akan:
    • Memberikan rintangan di belakang pusat graviti motosikal.

    • Dan meratakan casis (keberatan motosikal tidak berubah ke depan atau belakang) dan motosikal dapat mengikuti selekoh dengan ketat.

Teknik ini digunakan oleh hampir SEMUA pelumba MotoGP!

Penutup

Semuanya bermula dengan tidak panik, tetapi yang lebih penting – latih lima kemahiran tadi setiap kali ada peluang. Saya sendiri sentiasa amalkan teknik ini setiap kali menunggang. Latihan ini tidak perlu dilakukan pada kelajuan tinggi. Sebenarnya, anda akan lebih cepat mahir jika berlatih secara perlahan dan konsisten, dan tambahkan kelajuan secara beransur-ansur.

Sama seperti kebanyakan bahagian pada motosikal, kelebaran tayar merupakan satu perdebatan yang “abadi.” Terdapat motosikal dengan kapasiti kecil dan kuasa enjin yang lebih rendah tetapi dipadankan dengan saiz tayar yang lebar, manakala terdapat beberapa motosikal yang lebih berat dan engin yang berkuasa tetapi dilengkapi dengan tayar yang lebih kurus (sempit).

Tetapi apa yang sebenarnya menarik perhatian kami untuk menulis artikel ini ialah melihat motosikal yang dipasang dengan tayar yang amat kurus, yang juga dikenali sebagai tayar sotong.

Tetapi adakah tayar yang lebih lebar mempunyai permukaan yang lebih besar dan oleh itu memberikan cengkaman yang lebih baik? Tanggapan itu tidak salah, tetapi ia sedikit lebih kompleks daripada itu. Mari kita lihat.
Tayar Lebar

Kelebihan

  • Lebih potensi cengkaman terutamanya semasa membelok.
  • Membolehkan kelajuan yang lebih tinggi di selekoh.
  • Membolehkan sudut mereng yang lebih banyak apabila membelok.
  • Lebih stabil.
  • Mampu tampung lebih kuasa enjin.
  • Membolehkan pembukaan pendikit yang lebih agresif ketika mengambil selekoh.
  • Lebih selamat untuk membrek ke dalam selekoh.
  • Membolehkan kita membrek dengan lebih keras.

Kekurangan

  • Biasanya lebih mahal.
  • Terasa “lebih berat” untuk dikemudi.
  • Meninggalkan lebih banyak bahagian yang tidak digunakan khususnya di tepi kerana tidak mengambil selekoh dengan tajam.
  • Sudut mereng motosikal lebih jauh apabila mengambil selekoh, berbanding tayar yang lebih kurus.
  • Lebih banyak jisim (keberatan) bermakna lebih banyak kuasa diperlukan untuk pecutan (rintangan bergolek).
  • Lebih banyak jisim juga bermakna suspensi dan brek perlu bekerja lebih keras.
Tayar Kurus

Kelebihan

  • Biasanya lebih murah.
  • Lebih mudah untuk mengemudi.
  • Lebih mudah untuk menggunakan keseluruhan tayar.
  • Rintangan bergerak yang kurang untuk pecutan lebih pantas dan penggunaan bahan api yang lebih rendah.
  • Dapat mengurangkan kekuatan spring dan redaman suspensi.
  • Motosikal tidak mereng sebanyak ke dalam selekoh pada kelajuan tertentu berbanding tayar yang lebih lebar.

Kekurangan

  • Kurang potensi cengkaman sisi, mengehadkan kelajuan selekoh dan sudut condong.
  • Motosikal berasa kurang stabil.
  • Tidak boleh membuka pendikit dengan agresif apabila motosikal dimerengkan.
  • Tidak boleh membrek dengan agresif.

Terdapat juga satu faktor untuk memasang tayar yang lebih lebar, iaitu gaya. Bagi kebanyakan penunggang motosikal, tayar belakang yang lebih lebar menjadikan motosikal itu kelihatan lebih agresif, lebih sporty. Tetapi dalam pengalaman kami menguji hampir setiap motosikal di pasaran, mempunyai tayar yang lebih lebar atau lebih kurus sebenarnya tidak penting. Ada kalanya tayar yang lebih lebar sebenarnya terasa keras di atas jalan awam.

Kembali kepada subjek tayar sotong, ia sebenarnya digunakan untuk pecutan garis lurus, seperti yang dilihat pada perlumbaan drag (dipanggil “sprint” di Malaysia). Mereka mungkin bagus untuk perlumbaan seperti itu kerana tiada selekoh, namun ia berbahaya di jalan raya. Itu kerana tayar terlalu kurus tidak dapat memberikan ruang untuk membrek kecemasan dan membelok. Tambahan lagi, profil yang rendah juga berisiko merosakkan rim akibat bonggolan tajam. Penulis ini sendiri pernah menyaksikan tayar sotong pada sebuah motosikal di hadapan meletup dan akibatnya penunggang itu tidak dapat mengawal motosikal.

Sebaliknya, kami juga menemui tayar yang terlalu lebar untuk saiz rim tertentu. Contohnya tayar dengan kelebaran 180 keratan pada rim untuk kelebaran 160 – disebabkan oleh salah tanggapan bahawa tayar yang lebih lebar bermakna lebih cengkaman. Tayar yang terlalu lebar akan menyebabkan bebibir rim mencubit tayar, dan menghasilkan tapak cengkaman yang sebenarnya LEBIH KECIL daripada yang disyorkan.

Sebagai kesimpulan, perkara terbaik ialah mematuhi cadangan pengeluar motosikal dan tayar. Ingin lebih cengkaman? Pilih satu dengan kompaun yang lebih lembut. Mahu lia tahan ebih lama? Pilihlah tayar sport-touring.

Pertandingan Honda Customs 2025 di Eropah kembali lagi untuk edisi keenam tahunan, dan kali ini, Honda CB350RS (dikenali sebagai GB350S di Eropah) dipilih sebagai model asas.

Sebelas hasil kustom CB350RS dari tujuh buah negara, yang diubah suai oleh pengedar dan pakar kustom, telah terpilih. Kesemua motosikal ini akan dipamerkan semasa festival Wheels and Waves di Biarritz, Perancis.

Pemenang akan ditentukan berdasarkan jumlah undian yang diterima. Anda boleh mengundi melalui laman web https://www.hondacustoms.com/en. Tahun lepas, pemenangnya adalah Bunker Garage dari Turki dengan café racer berasaskan CL500 mereka.

CB350RS adalah seperti kanvas yang sangat sesuai untuk dikustom, dan itulah yang dipilih oleh Honda tahun ini. Pilihan yang tepat!

Berikut adalah gambaran kesemua sebelas hasil kustom yang terpilih:

1. RE: CRAFTED OKIRA – Freaky Debbie, Ruleshaker – (Perancis)

Lihat dengan lebih teliti dan anda akan perasan bahawa versi ini menggunakan lebih banyak bahan kulit berbanding plastik untuk panelnya. Ia menggabungkan fesyen dan motosikal melalui kreativiti lestari. Dengan memanfaatkan pakaian dan peralatan yang tidak terjual dari acara lumba sebelumnya, Freaky Debbie dan Ruleshaker mencipta sebuah motosikal kustom yang unik, lengkap dengan pakaian sepadan—di mana setiap butiran menceritakan kisah inovasi semula dan reka bentuk yang bijak.

2. MIRANDA – Honda Motorsport Las Rozas (Sepanyol)

Dinamakan sempena anak perempuan ketua projek, Miranda adalah penghormatan bergaya kepada semangat memberontak motosikal vintaj. Dibina oleh pasukan semua wanita, ia menampilkan penutup lampu depan yang anggun dengan skrin bersepadu, tempat duduk yang disemak semula dan skema warna merah jambu putih dan gula-gula yang menonjol. Peningkatan seperti ekzos aliran bebas Arrow dan penyerap hentakan belakang YSS meningkatkan bunyi dan prestasi.

3. THE ROCKET LION – Honda Motorsport Las Rozas (Sepanyol)

The Rocket Lion ialah surat cinta kepada pelumba kafe klasik, menggabungkan warisan Honda dengan karya custom yang berani. Fairing RC181 yang diubah suai dan penutup belakang tersuai membentuk siluetnya yang unik, manakala tempat duduk yang diilhamkan GP memperhalusi kedudukan tunggangan. Dikemas dalam warna rasmi Honda dengan logo gaya patina, ia menampilkan tayar Michelin Road Classic, perkakasan titanium, dan keseimbangan sempurna antara prestasi dan karakter vintej.

4. CLUBMAN TT – Mallorca Motos (Sepanyol)

Mallorca Motos menyalurkan semangat perlumbaan jalanan 70-an dengan Clubman TT. Hendal dan tempat duduk yang dipendekkan dengan bonggol bersepadu mencipta posisi menunggang yang menunduk, manakala ekzos patah yang dihitamkan menambah impak visual dan bunyi. Kitaran cat melalui rona biru dan hijau, diilhamkan oleh laut dan hutan Isle of Man, dan roda hadapan dan belakang yang berbeza melengkapkan binaan yang menarik ini.

5. HACHIMAAN – MAAN Motocicli Audaci (Itali)

MAAN Motocicli Audaci kembali dengan Hachimaan, seorang Bobber Jepun yang dinamakan sempena Dewa Perang Shinto. Bahagian belakang hardtail tersuai, tangki peanut minimalis dan hendal bebas tuil menghasilkan bentuk yang elegan. Cat biru berkilauan dengan nyalaan api, penukar gear dengan klac kaki dan ekzos custom menambah kedalaman dan kesenian pada mesin rohani yang berani ini.

6. SILVER BULLET – Farnham Honda (UK)

Silver Bullet menampilkan gaya klasik pelumba kafe British. Dari fairing ke tangki aluminium yang digilap dan tempat duduk tunggal yang anggun, ia memancarkan tujuannya. Hendal jenis clip-on rendah dan set pemijak kaki menambah gaya agresif, manakala garisan jalinan dan cakera gelombang menandakan brek yang kuat. Tayar perlumbaan melengkapkan penampilan prestasi.

7. MIA – TubaisMoto (Portugal)

Mia menghidupkan bakat sukan permotoran 60-an, dengan fairing hadapan, skrin retro dan casis hitam yang membezakan skema cat yang diinspirasikan oleh HRC merah-putih-biru. Hidung ke ekor berjalur pudar secara halus di atas tudung, menambah gerakan pada rupa. Roda jejari hitam, ekzos bersangkut rendah dan lampu ekor LED padat menggabungkan bentuk vintaj dengan fungsi moden.

8. SWISS WING – Pellicari Design (Switzerland)

Swiss Wing ialah ciptaan unik yang lahir daripada kerjasama antara Honda Moto Switzerland dan Pellicari Design, yang diilhamkan oleh kejuruteraan aeronautik. Pengubahsuaian termasuk roda unik, ribet, hos dan skru yang dipinjam daripada sektor penerbangan. Selain itu, terdapat tempat duduk baharu, ekzos yang direka semula dan bar hendal yang direka bentuk semula. Rekabentuk ini menggabungkan tayar dinding putih retro, suspensi belakang hitam untuk penampilan sporty, dan warna merah gula-gula yang membangkitkan bendera Switzerland kami—menukar motosikal ini menjadi karya berani yang bersedia untuk melonjak ke tahap baharu.

9. GRAND (B)RIX – Sporty Bike (Jerman)

GRAND (B)RIX menampilkan pengaruh pelumba jalan raya dan gaya pelumba kafe. Sudut fork yang disemak semula menjatuhkan bahagian hadapan untuk pengendalian yang lebih agresif, dipasangkan dengan bar hendal baharu, cermin hujung hendal dan genggaman custom. Kemasan emas membezakan ekzos yang dihitamkan dengan pembalut haba, dan tempat duduk yang dijahit custom membulatkan wataknya yang gelap dan bertujuan.

10. MBX350 – Servihonda Málaga (Sepanyol)

MBX350 menyelam ke tahun 80-an dengan kemasan nostalgia kepada MBX80 yang legenda. Penggayaan sporty, dengan lampu segi empat dan skema cat yang setia mencipta semula era dengan ketepatan. Bahagian bersejarah yang disesuaikan dan roda, fork dan lengan ayun warna perak meningkatkan keasliannya. Cermin  dan pengikat ekzos Tavi yang gempal menyatukan pelumba retro kesetiaan tinggi ini.

11. FTR350 – Vertu Honda (UK)

FTR350 diambil daripada DNA motosikal lumba lasak trek rata, menggabungkan minimalisme dengan sikap mentah. Tempat duduk meneruskan kelengkungan tangki, dan papan nombor hadapan menggantikan lampu depan untuk motosikal pelumba jati ini. Dikemas dalam warna merah custom dengan grafik, binaan ini termasuk roda wayar, garis brek berjalin dan ekzos tersuai yang dipasang tinggi dengan muffler CR Racefit untuk prestasi dan bunyi yang agresif.

The Honda Customs 2025 competition in Europe is back for its sixth annual instalment and this time, it is the Honda CB350RS (called the GB350S in Europe) that was chosen as the template.

The winner will be determined by the number of votes received. You can vote via the https://www.hondacustoms.com/en website. Last year’s winner was Bunker Garage from Turkey with their CL500-based café racer.

The CB350RS is canvas that begs to be customised and that is what Honda turned to this year. Great choice!

Here is a look at the eleven entries:

1. RE: CRAFTED OKIRA – Freaky Debbie (designer), Ruleshaker (builder) – (France)

Look closer and you can see that this iteration features more leather than plastics for its panels. It blends fashion and motorcycling through creative sustainability. Using unsold apparel and gear from past racing events, Freaky Debbie and Ruleshaker built a unique custom bike with a matching outfit—where every detail tells a story of reinvention and smart design.

2. MIRANDA – Honda Motorsport Las Rozas (Spain)

Named after the daughter of the project leader, Miranda is a stylish tribute to the rebellious spirit of vintage motorcycles. Built by an all-female team, it features a sleek headlight cowl with integrated screen, a revised seat, and a standout white and candy pink color scheme. Upgrades like an Arrow free-flow exhaust and YSS rear shocks enhance both sound and performance.

3. THE ROCKET LION – Honda Motorsport Las Rozas (Spain)

The Rocket Lion is a love letter to classic café racers, combining Honda’s heritage with bold custom work. A modified RC181 fairing and custom rear cowling shape its unique silhouette, while the GP-inspired seat refines the riding position. Finished in an official Honda color with a patina-style logo, it features Michelin Road Classic tyres, titanium hardware, and a perfect balance of performance and vintage character.

4. CLUBMAN TT – Mallorca Motos (Spain)

Mallorca Motos channels the spirit of 70s street racing with the Clubman TT. Half handlebars and a shortened seat with integrated hump create a lowered silhouette, while a blacked-out shotgun exhaust adds visual punch and sound. The paintwork cycles through blue and green tones, inspired by the Isle of Man’s sea and forests, and the contrasting front and rear wheels complete this striking build.

5. HACHIMAAN – MAAN Motocicli Audaci (Italy)

MAAN Motocicli Audaci returns with Hachimaan, a Japanese-Bobber named after the Shinto God of War. A custom hardtail rear, minimalist peanut tank, and lever-free bars create a stripped-down, elegant form. Glistening blue paint with ghosted flames, a shifter with foot clutch, and a custom exhaust add depth and artistry to this bold, spiritual machine.

6. SILVER BULLET – Farnham Honda (UK)

Silver Bullet is a classic take on British café racer style. From the nose-cone fairing to the brushed aluminium tank and sleek single seat, it exudes purpose. Low clip-ons and rear sets on machined hangers add aggression, while braided lines and a wave disc hint at strong braking. Racing slicks complete the performance look.

7. MIA – TubaisMoto (Portugal)

Mia brings 60s motorsport flair to life, with a bold frontal fairing, retro screen, and a black chassis contrasting a red-white-blue HRC-inspired paint scheme. A stripe running nose to tail fades subtly over the cowl, adding motion to the look. Black spoked wheels, a low-slung exhaust, and a compact LED tail light blend vintage form with modern function.

8. SWISS WING – Pellicari Design (Switzerland)

The Swiss Wing is a unique creation born from the collaboration between Honda Moto SWitzerland and Pellicari Design, inspired by aeronautics. The modifications include unique full wheels, louvers, rivets, hoses, and screws borrowed from aviation. Additionally, there is a new seat, a reimagined exhaust line, and a redesigned handlebar. The design incorporates retro whitewall tires, black rear suspensions for a sporty look, and a candy red that evokes our Swiss flag—transforming this motorcycle into a bold work ready to soar to new heights.

9. GRAND (B)RIX – Sporty Bike (Germany)

The GRAND (B)RIX is a low-key powerhouse with road racer influence and café racer style. A revised fork angle drops the front for a more aggressive rake, paired with new handlebars, bar-end mirrors, and custom grips. Gold accents contrast the blacked-out exhaust with heat wrap, and the custom stitched seat rounds off its dark, purposeful character.

10. MBX350 – Servihonda Málaga (Spain)

The MBX350 dives into the 80s with a nostalgic nod to the legendary MBX80. Sharp, squared-off styling and a faithful paint scheme recreate the era with precision. Adapted historical parts and silver-finished wheels, forks and trailing arm elevate its authenticity. Period-correct mirrors and a stubby Tavi exhaust tie together this high-fidelity retro racer.

11. FTR350 – Vertu Honda (UK)

The FTR350 draws from Flat Track DNA, fusing minimalism with raw attitude. A sculpted upswept seat continues the tank’s curvature, and a front number board replaces the headlight for that true racer vibe. Finished in custom red with bold graphics, the build includes wire wheels, braided brake lines, and a high-mounted custom exhaust with CR Racefit muffler for aggressive performance and sound.

The BMW RT pretty much set the standard for the more tourer-biased sport touring segment. But wait, sport tourer?

A long time ago, sport-tourers were standard motorcycles/roadsters that were equipped windscreens and luggage. However, the segment was further (mini) segmented to those that are more sport-oriented versus those that are more touring-oriented.

The former includes madcap motorcycles such as the BMW S 1000 XR and M 1000 XR, Kawasaki Ninja H2 SX, Kawasaki 1400GTR, KTM 1390 Super Duke GT, Ducati Multistrada V4, and Suzuki Hayabusa (yes the ‘Busa is considered a sport-tourer).

The latter includes the BMW RT, Honda NT1100, Kawasaki Ninja 1000, Yamaha FJR1300ES, etc.

But how about the likes of the BMW K 1600 series? It belongs to the full-dress tourer segment. Yes, it covers the Honda Gold Wing, Kawasaki Voyager, Harley-Davidson Electra Glide, … You get the idea.

More about the BMW RT

First and foremost, the RT, at least beginning from the 1996 R 1150 RT, looked large, heavy and ungainly. However, we ourselves found out about how sweet and comfortable the RT series is. They felt more like large scooters rather than motorcycles that you risk throwing your back out by lifting it off its sidestand.

There are many reasons why the RT is chosen as a police or escort motorcycle the world over, including here in Malaysia.

Really. You need to ride one to fall in love with it.

History of the BMW RT

Anyway, back to the main title, let us trace the evolution of the much-beloved RT, beginning with the name, of course. “RT” stands for “Reise-Tourer” (Travel-Tourer).

R 100 RT (1978)

The original RT, based on the R 100 S and shares certain attributes with the R 100 RS. The R 100 RT has a full fairing and more upright riding position. It set the standard for BMW’s touring motorcycles and was popular among long-distance riders.

  • A full fairing (unlike earlier naked or semi-faired BMWs).

  • A 98 hp, 980cc “airhead” (air-cooled) Boxer engine.

  • Comfortable seating, wind protection, and luggage options.

R 1100 RT (1995)

Introduced along with new generation of BMW “oilhead” Boxer engine and a more advanced chassis. The oilhead engine, as the name suggested, was oil-cooled. This engine would become BMW’s signature for many years to come.

  • 1,085cc, 90 hp engine.

  • Improved aerodynamics, ABS (optional), and electronic fuel injection.

R 1150 RT (2001)

Still an “oilhead,” the Boxer engine underwent several revisions including enlarged capacity and power output.

  • 1,130cc, 95 hp engine.

  • More refined suspension (Telelever front, Paralever rear).

  • Better wind protection and onboard electronics.

R 1200 RT (2005)

The last of the “oilhead” generation RT, but was considered the one of the best until today. BMW reworked the engine and chassis again to provide even more performance and comfort.

There were two (sub-)versions of this generation, namely:

  • “Hexhead” (2005–2009): 1,170cc, 110 hp, with improved engine cooling.

  • “Camhead” (2010–2013): Minor updates, including revised cylinder heads.

Main features included:

  • Dynamic ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment).

  • Advanced electronics (traction control, ride modes).

  • Heated grips, cruise control, and a larger fairing.

R 1200 RT (2014)

The Boxer was finally liquid-cooled to keep up with producing more power and emissions standards, leading to being dubbed as the “waterhead,” or “wethead.”

Main features followed those of the previous R 1200 RT, albeit enhanced further.

  • Dynamic ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment).

  • Advanced electronics (traction control, ride modes).

  • Heated grips, cruise control, and a larger fairing.

R 1250 RT (2019)

The R 1250 RT made its debut following BMW upgrading the Boxer to include their ShiftCam VVT technology. And of course, the new bike had many new features too, including radar-assistance in the latter stages. It remains one of the most technologically advanced and comfortable touring bikes on the market.

  • 1,254cc ShiftCam boxer engine (136 hp, variable valve timing).

  • 10.25-inch TFT display (with connectivity, navigation, and multimedia).

  • Radar-assisted adaptive cruise control (optional).

  • Enhanced rider aids (cornering ABS, dynamic traction control).

R 1300 RT (2025)

BMW introduced the all-new R 1300 GS for 2024, and of course, the RT follows soon after. This is an all-new RT, along with a completely new design which breaks away from the previous two R 1200 RT and subsequent R 1250 RT generations. It is 12 kg (wet) lighter than the last R 1250 RT, too.

Key features:

  • New 1,300cc ShiftCam Boxer Twin, which produces 145 hp (107 kW) @ 7,750 RPM, and 149 Nm (110 lb-ft) @ 6,500 RPM.

  • More compact & lighter than the R 1250 RT engine.

  • 6-speed transmission with optional Shift Assistant Pro (clutchless up/down shifts).

  • Improved fuel efficiency and smoother power delivery.

  • New Steel Bridge Frame (lighter & stiffer for better handling).

  • EVO Telelever Front Suspension (revised for improved feedback).

  • EVO Paralever Rear Suspension (enhanced stability).

  • Optional Dynamic ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment) – automatically adapts to riding conditions.

  • 10.25-inch Full-Color TFT Display (with smartphone connectivity).

  • Riding Modes: Rain, Road, Dynamic, Eco, plus optional Pro modes (customizable).

  • Advanced Safety Features:

    • ABS Pro (Cornering ABS)

    • Dynamic Traction Control (DTC)

    • Hill Start Control (HSC)

  • Optional Radar-Assisted Systems:

    • Active Cruise Control (ACC)

    • Front Collision Warning (FCW)

    • Lane Change Warning (SWW)

  • Ergonomically Optimized Seat (adjustable height: 760–800 mm).

  • Improved Wind Protection (electrically adjustable windscreen).

  • Heated Grips & Seat (standard in some markets).

  • Integrated Luggage System (side cases optional, up to 29L each).

  • Keyless Ride & Central Locking.

  • Slimmer & More Aggressive Styling (LED lighting, sharper lines).

  • Reduced Weight (~12 kg lighter than R 1250 RT).

  • Optimized Airflow (better wind protection with less buffeting).

  • Comfort Package: Heated seats, centerstand, etc.

  • Premium Package: Radar-assisted systems, tire pressure monitoring.

  • Sport Package: Dynamic ESA, Shift Assistant Pro.

 

Universiti Putra Malaysia baru-baru ini menjalankan satu kajian dan mendapati bahawa ramai penunggang motosikal kurang kesedaran tentang keselamatan tayar. Keselamatan tayar bukan hanya tentang jenis kompaun yang terbaik, tetapi juga merangkumi tekanan pengembungan, keadaan tayar, dan usia. Itulah sebabnya kami memutuskan untuk menyusun 5 petua penjagaan tayar mudah ini.

Jadi, jika anda baru memasang set tayar yang sangat “grip” atau membeli motosikal baru, tugas utama adalah menjaga tayar-tayar tersebut agar mereka memberikan prestasi terbaik dan keyakinan di mana sahaja anda pergi.

Tayar memang memerlukan sedikit penjagaan, walaupun tidak intensif dan tidak memerlukan pengetahuan teknikal tahap kejuruteraan automotif. Ingat, anda mungkin memiliki motosikal terpantas di dunia, tetapi ia tidak akan ke mana tanpa “donat getah” itu.

 

1. “Run in” dengan betul

Penjagaan tayar bermula sebaik sahaja anda memasang set baharu. Ingat istilah ini: “Tayar mempunyai ingatan.” Cara anda memecahkannya menentukan prestasinya kelak.

Jadi, berhati-hati dalam 300–500 km pertama. Elakkan pecutan dan brek keras, serta sengetan maksimum.

Percubaan untuk menunggang laju dengan tayar baharu boleh membawa padah kerana sesetengah tayar baharu mungkin dilapisi dengan bahan pelepas acuan (mould release). Permukaan licin dan berkilat ini perlu dihapuskan sebelum kita boleh menunggang secara maksimum.

Memang ada tayar yang dihasilkan tanpa bahan pelepas ini, tetapi “run in” tayar secara berhati-hati membolehkan komponen dan kompaun dalam tayar menjadi stabil. Tayar diperbuat daripada puluhan (jika bukan ratusan) kompaun berbeza, dan ia memerlukan haba (daripada penungganan) untuk “memasaknya.”

Mengasak tayar terlalu awal menyebabkan kompaun mengeras sebelum mencapai separuh hayatnya. Inilah sebab utama mengapa sesetengah penunggang mengadu tayar mereka hilang cengkaman dan keanjalan apabila mula haus. Ya, inilah “ingatan” yang kita maksudkan.

2. Periksa tekanan

Tekanan pengembungan tayar adalah segalanya.

  • Tekanan rendah menyebabkan tayar terlalu panas dan cepat haus. Selain itu, ia meningkatkan rintangan gelongsor, menjadikan motosikal kurang responsif dan meningkatkan penggunaan minyak.

  • Tekanan berlebihan pula membuatkan bahagian tengah tayar cepat haus. Traksi dan keselesaan juga terjejas kerana tayar tidak dapat menyerap ketidakteraturan permukaan jalan.

Setiap tayar mempunyai struktur berbeza—ada yang keras, ada yang lembut—tetapi tekanan yang disyorkan oleh pengeluar motosikal adalah yang terbaik untuk menampung berat dan prestasi motosikal. Anda boleh menambah tekanan jika membawa beban berat, tetapi lakukan dalam had munasabah (±10 kPa).

Tip tambahan: Jangan bergantung pada meter pam tayar di stesen minyak kerana ia mungkin tidak dikalibrasi dengan betul. Lebih baik beli tolok tekanan udara tayar yang berkualiti dan bawa bersama. Sebaik-baiknya tekanan diperiksa sebelum menunggang atau sekurang-kurangnya setiap 2–3 hari. Pastikan tayar dalam keadaan sejuk semasa mengisi udara.

3. Periksa keadaan tayar

Lakukan pemeriksaan setiap kali sebelum menunggang, semasa mengisi udara atau membersihkan motosikal. Cari:

  • Objek asing (paku, batu kecil).
  • Kebocoran.
  • Retakan.
  • Haus tidak sekata – mungkin disebabkan oleh pelarasan rantai mahupun suspensi.

Jika ada masalah, tangani segera.

4. Bersihkan tayar

Ini bukan sekadar untuk penampilan, tetapi membersihkan tayar membantu mengesan kerosakan awal. Gunakan pembersih yang tidak menghasikis — elakkan pelarut keras seperti petrol, minyak tanah, atau diesel kerana ia boleh mengeraskan getah. Tayar yang keras kurang cengkaman dan mudah retak.

5. Cara membaikki tayar yang pancit

Untuk tayar tanpa tiub (tubeless), cara terbaik adalah menggantikannya kerana objek yang menembus tayar mungkin merosakkan struktur tayar yang memberikan bentuk, kekuatan, dan keselamatan.

Namun, jika anda memilih untuk membaiki:

  • Bawa ke bengkel reputasi baik untuk tampal dari dalam.

  • Kit cacing hanyalah untuk kecemasan dalam memberikan kita masa untuk ke bengkel terdekat, oleh itu, jangan biarkan ia selama-lamanya.

BONUS 1: Usia tayar

Tayar lama (biasanya 5 tahun ke atas) menjadi keras dan kurang cengkaman. Anda boleh semak kod pengeluaran pada sisi tayar. Contohnya seperti gambar di bawah di mana “0117” bersamaan minggu pertama, tahun 2017.

BONUS 2: Penunjuk kehausan tayar (TWI)

Setiap tayar mempunyai penunjuk tahap kehausan tayar (tyre wear indicator). Anda boleh cari satu bentuk segitiga di tepi tayar dengan huruf “TWI” dan ikutnya ke permukaan tayar di mana terdapat bonggolan kecil. Apabila bunga tayar sudah sampai ke tahap itu, ia bermaksud tayar itu telah kira haus walaupun belum botak sepenuhnya. Ini kerana tayar tersebut sudah dikira tidak dapat mengalirkan air dengan tahap optimum.

Penutup

Hanya 5 tip petua penjagaan tayar yang mudah ini boleh memastikan tayar anda tahan lama, selamat, dan menjimatkan wang.

The Universiti Putra Malaysia conducted a study recently and found out that many motorcyclists lack tyre safety knowledge. Tyre safety is not only about which compound is best, but also covers inflation pressure, condition of the tyre, age. That is why we decided to put together these 5 simple tyre care tips.

So since you have just mounted a set of super sticky tyres or bought a new motorcycle, the main task is maintain them so that they provide you with the best performance and confidence wherever you go.

Tyres do require some TLC, although not intensive and does not require automotive engineering level technical know-how. Remember, you may have the fastest bike on the planet, but it goes nowhere without those rubber donuts.

1. Break them in properly

Tyre care begins immediately after you install a new set. Remember this term: “Tyres have memory.” It means how you break them in determines how they perform later.

So, be gentle with them for the first 300 to 500 km. It means no super hard acceleration and braking, and maximum lean.

Pushing on a new tyre will bear disastrous results as some new tyres may be coated with mould release. This shiny, slippery surface needs to be scrubbed off before we can begin riding on them to the maximum.

Granted, there are tyres produced without using mould release, but breaking in the tyre gently and progressively lets the different components and compounds in the tyre to stabilise, regardless. Tyres are made from tens, if not hundreds, of different compounds and they need heat (generated from riding) to “cook” them.

Pushing on the tyres too early causes the compound hardening up even before it reaches its halfway point. This is the main reason why some riders complain about their tyres losing grip and elasticity when they start to wear. Yup, this is the “memory” we spoke about.

2. Check the pressure

Tyre inflation pressure is everything.

Under-inflation causes the tyre to overheat and wear out quickly. Additionally, it results in higher fuel consumption and sluggish handling due to increased rolling resistance.

On the other hand, over-inflation wears out the centre of the tyre quickly. Besides that, traction and comfort will suffer as the tyre could not conform and absorb irregularities on the road surface.

Granted, different tyres have different constructions, thus some are harder, while some are softer, which leads to the temptation to under-inflate or over-inflate them However, the recommended tyre pressures are what the motorcycle manufacturer deems as necessary to support the weight and performance envelope of the bike. You may of course increase the pressure should you carry heavy loads, but do so within sane amounts (increase or decrease by 10 kPa).

Another tip: Do not rely on the gauge at petrol stations because they are not calibrated over time. The best solution is by buying a good tyre pressure gauge so you can bring it with you on the bike. The correct habit is to check the pressure every time before you ride, but once every two to three days is fine too. Do check the pressure and inflate when the tyres are cold.

3. Inspect the tyres

This should ideally be done every time before you ride, at the same time when you are inflating them or cleaning your bike. Look for punctures, foreign objects, cracks or unusual wear patterns. They must be dealt with immediately.

4. Clean the tyres

It is not just about aesthetics, but cleaning the tyres allows you to spot deformities and damages, hence averting potential disasters. But do clean them with specific tyre cleaners. Do not use harsh solvents such as petrol, kerosene or diesel, as they will cause the rubber to harden. Consequently, your tyres will not grip like they should and crack quickly.

 

5. Puncture repair

The best fix for a punctured tubeless tyre is to replace the it altogether. This is because the object which poked through would have cut through the sections that give the tyre its shape, strength, performance and safety.

But we understand that most of us choose to repair that puncture, instead.

If you have tubeless tyres, it is best to visit a reputable workshop and have them remove the tyre and patch the tyre from the inside. Keep in mind that using a puncture repair kit (or “cacing” as it is commonly called) is a temporary measure to help you ride to the nearest workshop. It should not be left in place for the entire lifespan of the tyre.

BONUS

The tyre’s age plays a huge part in safety, too. The compound in old tyres can cause the tyre to be harder thus it may not provide the level of grip and comfort as new tyres. Tyres can generally last up to 5 years. You can check against the manufacturing code on your tyre.

In the picture above, “0117.” The first two digits mean the week of the year, while the last two digits correspond to the year. So, in this case, the tyre was made in the first week of 2017.

Conclusion

So, there you go, just five simple tips to ensure that your tyres last as long as their intended lifespans. Remember that keeping your tyres in good condition ensures your safety besides providing enjoyment and saves you money, but also ensures your safety.

Here is Part 2 of the history of more recent technologies that have made motorcycles they are today.

6. Suzuki GSX-R1000 K7 (2007)

As we mentioned earlier, Yamaha somehow dropped the ball after developing the ride-by-wire system by not giving their bikes ride/power modes. (Your bike needs to have ride-by-wire throttle for ride/power modes.) Suzuki got rolling with it when they introduced the GSX-R1000 K7 the next year, along with the B-King. Granted, they had only two rides modes, namely A and B. Mode A gave full engine power, while B cuts it back for riding in the rain.

7. Ducati 1098R (2007) – IMU-based traction control

Some say the first motorcycle to feature traction control was the BMW K1. However, it featured ABS which is the simplest form of traction control. Instead, it was the Honda ST1100A (1992) which followed the ST1100 Pan European that had both ABS and a rudimentary traction control system.

The true modern TCS which works via the ECU and IMU (inertial measurement unit) which calculated the motorcycle’s lean angle and pitch was introduced with the Ducati 1098R. The system, developed by Bosch, provided eight levels of TC settings.

The system was further developed and became Ducati’s integrated electronics suite which debuted with the Multistrada 1200 in 2010.

8. BMW R 1200 GS (2008) – Electronic suspension

Several high-end modern motorcycles use electronic suspension, including sportbikes, sport-tourers, nakeds, dual-sports. However, it began with the 2008 BMW R 1200 GS.

Developed by Sachs, BMW called it ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment) and was offered as an option back then. It altered the rear shock’s preload through a handlebar button and stepper motor.

The system was further upgraded to include more settings such as rider only, rider only with luggage, rider and pillion without luggage, and rider and pillion with luggage. Further development saw the advent of Dynamic ESA which self balances.

On the 2013-2014 BMW S 1000 RR HP4, BMW introduced the Dynamic Damping Control system which adjusted the rear suspension’s damping on-the-fly.

Other manufacturers followed suit, especially Ducati which featured the also Sachs developed Skyhook system. Showa also developed their electronic suspension that are fitted to er… Japanese bikes. KTM models such as the 1290/1390 Super Duke GT uses WP’s electronic suspension.

Anyhow, this system is complex and expensive, thus is limited to, as we said earlier, top-tier models. And oh, it is banned in WSBK and MotoGP. Although it is allowed in the FIM Endurance World Championship, teams favour non-electronic suspensions as their insides are easier to fettle with.

9. Ducati Streetfighter 1100 (2009) – LED headlights

So many Ducatis in this list… but yeah, they truly pushed new features on their motorcycles. LED headlights are everywhere these days, even on kapcais. And it all began with this bike.

10. Ducati Diavel (2011) – TFT display

Motorcycle instrument clusters were LCD for a long time, then came the TFT which offered much sharper pixels. Soon, riders could pair their smartphones to the TFT for music streaming, phone operations, and navigation.

However, it was the Ducati Monster 1200R in 2016 which showed off the world’s first fully-colour TFT screen.

The TFT is screen is everywhere now and new motorcycles are expected to feature it.

11. KTM 1190 Adventure (2014) – Cornering ABS

Traction control and ABS are good, but actually needs different parameters and strategies when the bike is leaned over into a corner. Remember that the motorcycle’s tyre profile is rounded compared to cars that are flatter. So, applying the brakes until (standard) ABS activates in a corner will just have the bike standing straight up instead of tracking along the chosen line. The same happens when TCS decides to cut engine torque in the middle of the corner.

So again, Bosch went to work and introduced Cornering ABS and Cornering Traction Control – packaged as “MSC” (Motorcycle Stabilily Control) to the 2014 KTM 1190 Adventure, by further utilising the IMU’s data. KTM was so confident in the system that they called the 1190 Adventure “The uncrashable motorcycle.”

Continental also developed their own system and was fitted to the first BMW S 1000 XR.

12. Ducati Multistrada V4 (2020) – Radar and Adaptive Cruise Control

BMW was the first to announce that they were working on a radar equipped bike and adaptive cruise control, but were undoubtedly shocked by Ducati who introduced it on the Multistrada V4. Included in the suite was also Blind Spot Detection which detected and warned the rider of other vehicles.

Modern motorcycles are technological marvels, in due to advances in the materials and techniques used to build them, tyres , suspension, and of course, electronics, besides aerodynamics. But all begin from somewhere in time. There are motorcycles that revolutionised motorcycles to the state we are in right now.

We have covered the mechanical advances in a previous article, so we will cover mostly on the electronics front in this one.

1. Honda X-ADV (2017) – The one which popularised adventure scooters

Okay, the first one on the list is not about electronic advancements, although the Honda X-ADV is equipped with the trick Honda Dual-Clutch Transmission (DCT).

It was not the first adventure scooter, either, but it was the definitely the adventure scooter (despite Honda insisting that it is a “crossover motorcycle”) that popularised the adventure scooter segment. Look at where we are now… Honda launched the ADV350, followed by the ADV160, followed by almost every manufacturer issuing their own adventure scooters: WMoto, Zontes, SYM, just to name a few.

2. Kawasaki Z1000H (1980) – First fuel injected engine

Save for a handful of small motorcycles, big and small bikes in this age are electronically fuel injected. The method of fuel delivery is primarily used to clean up exhaust emissions, but it can also boost performance tremendously compared to the carburetor. And it is so ubiquitous that we do not even need to think about it anymore.

While electronic fuel injection fully caught on in the late-90s and early-00s, the 1980 Kawasaki Z1000H was already equipped with it. However, the market did not catch on to it as it needed to go against the well-established carburetor.

The next fuel injected bike would be the Kawasaki GPz1100 in 1981, followed by Honda’s first EFI bike, the CX500 Turbo in 1983.

3. BMW K100RS/K1 (1988) – First motorcycle ABS

The Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) was first develop for cars by Daimler Benz way back in 1978, only to find its way onto a motorcycle in 1988 when BMW launched the K100RS SE and K1. These were primitive systems and added 10 kg to the motorcycle’s weight. This system was also the grandaddy of traction control. The Ducati 1098 R became the first production motorcycle to include race TC.

Other manufacturers were slow to catch on, and BMW continued to persist with it, despite complaints of the system having faults here and there. But now ABS is a necessity, a guard against panic braking.

4. Bimota Tesi 1D (1991) – First digital meter display

This was hard to nail down but it was the Bimota Tesi 1D which had the first LCD digital display. And we meant completely digital, not part digital, part analog. The Tesi’s display had a strip for the tachometer, which another LCD panel for speed, temperature, odometer and fuel level. Looking back, it looks so rudimentary!

5. Yamaha YZF-R6 (2006) – First ride-by-wire throttle

Along with a new crossplane engine equipped YZF-R1, Yamaha launched the updated YZF-R6 with fuel injection. It also had four titanium valves per cylinder and a stratospheric 17,500 RPM redline. All these changes resulted in 133 hp at 14,500 RPM.

Oh yes, it had the Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle (YCC-T) ride-by-wire throttle. However, it was not a true system like today as there were throttle cables leading to the ECU which calculated the throttle valve opening and injection. Yamaha did not capitalise fully on this technology by giving the bike ride modes and Suzuki capitalised on it.

Closing

Okay, that was Part 1, now onwards to Part 2!

The Honda CB350RS generated plenty of excitement when it was launched in Malaysia. Here it was, a handsome, big(ger)-cc, and possibly more importantly, affordable motorcycle for the masses. But of course, the main draw was its looks – who would want to ride an ugly bike, eh? (Ok, ok, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.)

What is the Honda CB350RS?

It is a modern-retro motorcycle, parked in the 350cc-400cc segment. Its design harks back to the standard motorcycle of the 60s and 70s, but is actually packed with contemporary features.

  • Power is provided a single-cylinder, OHC, air-cooled engine.
  • It produces a maximum power of 20.7 hp (15.5 kW) at 5,500 RPM and maximum torque of 30 Nm at 3,000 RPM.

  • Again, as usual with Hondas, torque is the main importance for street bikes.
  • The engine is mated to a assist and slipper clutch, then to a constant mesh, 5-speed transmission.

  • Fuelling is via PGM-FI injection.
  • A semi-cradle steel tube frame holds everything together.

  • Front suspension consists of non-adjustable telescopic forks, while a pair of shock absorbers are at the back.
  • 19-inch front wheel, 17-inch rear wheel.

  • Braking is via a 310mm disc up front, and a 240mm disc at the back.
  • The instrument panel has a round, analog speedometer with an embedded LCD screen.

  • The LCD screen displays data such gear position, fuel level, odometers, fuel consumption.
  • LED lighting.

  • 15-litre fuel tank.
  • Honda claims a lithe 178kg kerb weight.

As you can see, it is a (very) simple motorcycle and holds true to the adage of having an engine, a fuel tank, a handlebar, a seat, and two wheels. Purity of form and function.

Riding the Honda CB350RS

The first thing that surprised us in this day and age of Euro5+ regulations was the relatively loud exhaust. Not ear-splitting loud, but definitely a soulful rumble which you can hear in our video. Turn up the revs and it sounds even better but not the kind you get from modified exhausts. Cool.

The dimensions of the bike felt so right when we first climbed on. Small around the “waist” (where the seat meets the tank), low seat height, handlebar in the right position. Its low weight shone through even before we began moving. The bike was easy to push around while we were in the saddle. That was a plus point.

There was nothing to fiddle with like ride modes or power settings, apart from changing the odometer to real-time fuel consumption. Getting on a motorcycle and riding off immediately never gets old.

Its engine was pretty smooth, despite being a single-cylinder. Torque came in gradually, while the bike picked up speed handsomely. No tachometer? No problem, because we could feel the engine’s power tapering off as it revved past peak power. Hence, we never once ran into the limiter.

Gears 1 thru 4 were evenly and spaced closer together, but changing into 5th took us aback. We were accelerating quickly until we came upon the rising on-ramp to a highway. Snicking into 5th, the engine’s rev began to drop and the bike slowed down. Ah okay, so 5th is an extra tall, overdrive gear for long distance cruising and fuel saving. Indeed, we saw 5 litres/100 km while cruising at 130 km/h.

Then again… it does not mean that the bike could not be ridden with a little aggression, as it loved to corner due to its short wheelbase and low weight. And with low weight comes higher mid-corner speeds, reaped through a smoother corner entry style, rather than being chucked in.

Helping this was the suspension which proved to be nicely compliant even over potholes. Those forks look rudimentary but Honda did a great job of giving them street-oriented damping rates. But the rear shocks truly stood out we did not even remember running over bumps or through potholes.

One last thing, it may be a 350cc engine, but it started to run out of breath around 120 km/h. However, remember that trying to see the top speed on this bike is truly missing the point. The Honda CB350RS is built for riding around in a relaxed manner for you to destress after a long day/week. We did not give a toss about rempits revving at us or flying by. We were one with the bike in a state of zen. The engine’s maximum torque is higher than its maximum horsepower which made it easy to ride in the city, while 5th gear allows you to cruise on the highway. We like.

Conclusion

Simple motorcycles such as the Honda CB350RS reminds us of what motorcycling has become. Sure, modern motorcycles are better as they embody new technologies, but we do feel that these advancements have robbed some of the bikes’ pure soul along the way. Some may say that they would get bored of such simple motorcycles but we gravitate to them instead because we have grown somewhat enamoured with overly complex motorcycles. For example, forgetting to set the ride mode from RACE or SPORT to RAIN while it pours would result in a white-knuckled ride.

Let us not forget that it is a good-looking bike with some quaint details such as the old school fuel tank cap. It even has the classic Honda crankcase covers.

So, at just RM20,500, the Honda CB350RS is a wonderful little machine we would love to ride day in, day out, while leaving the 200hp superbike for the track, or Africa Twin for the weekends. Hey, you may even find yourself riding the CB350RS only, after a while.

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