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It is now in the middle of the transitional season in Malaysia, bringing sudden thunderstorms and heavy downpours. And as expected, there will be flash floods, like this morning on 15 October 2024.

While it is safest to sit out from riding in pouring rain and flooded roads, there is no escaping it at times, especially around flood-prone areas where the roads remain flooded even after rain has stopped.

Here are our tips for riding through flash floods (and deep puddles of water).

1. Stop and inspect

Treat riding through deep water like like it is adventure riding. No sane adventure rider will just blast headlong into an unknown body of water without first inspecting its depth, potential hazards underwater and exit on the other side.

While you may not have to get off your bike and walk through floods on the road you travel on each day, you do need to stop and look for clues. If there is another vehicle pushing through the water, note how deep it is. Observe if there is a strong water current from one side of the road to the other.

If the water is too deep or current’s too strong, forget it. Just wait for it to subside.

If you do not already know the location of your engine’s air intake, now is the good time to start. Check if it is high enough above the water. (This also applies to car drivers.)

2. Stand Up

Standing up on the footpegs promotes better stability at slow speeds, allowing you to control the bike. It can also keep your head hence eyes above water splashes so you can see where you are going.

3. Go Slow (and straight)

This goes without saying.

Throwing up a big splash may look spectacular in pictures but it is not a good idea in real world situations unless you are riding an enduro motorcycle. Hitting a deep body of water at speed would most turn the water into a liquid brake/barrier. The bike will cut through the first few metres easily before coming to a sudden halt and causing the rider to lose control (or even thrown off).

Keep your speed steady and as low as possibleto keep the water’s bow wake below the height of the engine’s air intake. Remember, you are riding a motorcycle, not a jetski.

It is also best to stay off the sides of the road and ride in the middle of the lane as roads in Malaysia are typically higher in the middle.

4. Keep moving

Do not pull in the clutch or shut the throttle abruptly.

Maintain a steady throttle and speed in the gear you are in right now, even if you should feel a tyre or tyres kicking loose when contacting something in the water. In fact, you should open the throttle a bit more if that happens.

Roll off the throttle smoothly if you need to slow down more and stay off the brakes.

5. Exiting

Do n0t gun it immediately after exiting the flood. You may increase your speed, but do not slam open the throttle, without first giving the time for the water or whatever debris collected on the bike to “drop off.”

Also, with the bike still moving, apply the brakes lightly to clean them.

6. Kill It!

But what if you hit, for example, a pothole and the bike goes down?

Make the effort to kill the engine before you lay the bike down into the water. You would most probably have the time to do so since you were riding at a slow speed, right? Right? Regardless, the engine should be shut down as quickly as possible.

An internal combustion engine is basically an air pump which sucks in air, adds fuel to it, compresses the mixture and sets it alight. But water is incompressible and non-combustible (duh!), and therefore has the potential of causing catastrophic engine damage.

Do not immediately attempt to start a motorcycle that has been lying underwater. Instead, you should pull out the spark plugs and the airbox cover to check for water ingress. If the spark plug electrodes are wet, do not reinstall them, but turn on the bike’s ignition and crank the starter a few times to push the water out of the combustion chamber.

Reinstall only when it is sufficiently dry.

Conclusion

Riding through a flood is n0t difficult but one should do it with care and logic, obviously. Sticking to the above steps will have you home way ahead of car drivers, instead of ending up swimming in that filthy water. Think of it as urban adventure riding.

The motorcycle’s air filter is another oft-neglected component. One can pick any motorcycle of age, open the airbox and find a filter that is totally caked in dust and bugs! And it is amusing to hear the owners lament that their motorcycles have “lost power.”

 

There are several brands of aftermarket air filters in the market; of some we have tried and discovered that some were good, while some were not so much. But there is one brand we have came to like and trust, called DNA High Performance Filters.

DNA are based in Greece and their filters of very high quality. Each piece is inspected before being packed and there are models available for almost every motorcycle in the market.

What does the air filter do?

Its task is as essential as it is simple: To filter the air inducted into the engine, ensuring that the air free of dust, water, and other objects that will damage the throttle bodies/carburettor and engine. In saying so, please DO NOT operate your motorcycle without an air filter!

A clean air filter allows for smooth airflow which in turn results in efficient fuel combustion. The mass airflow (MAF) sensor of EFI-equipped motorcycles sits between the filter and throttle body/bodies and measure the amount of air coming through. The engine’s ECU uses this data to inject the corresponding amount of fuel. Thus, low airflow will cause the incorrect amount of fuel being injected, hence causing a drop in engine performance.

But, the engine’s ECU can only be flexible to a certain degree. So, the insufficient airflow will also cause incomplete fuel combustion, therefore increasing relative fuel consumption.

Also, a blocked filter will cause abrupt throttle response. Air has density, hence momentum i.e. a body at rest tends to stay at rest, while a body that is moving tends to keep moving. As such, you may find that the engine is slow to respond when you first open the throttle, then it suddenly revs up quickly. That is not ideal especially for balancing your throttle input in midcorner!

Advantages of using an aftermarket air filter

Stock air filters are typically made of foam or paper for particulate filtration.

Sure enough, there are aftermarket filters use the same materials. However, good aftermarket filters such as DNA use oiled cotton as the filter material.

Better Airflow

This is the main advantage over OEM filters is better airflow due to the material. This feature causes many other performance benefits (more on this below). The cotton gauze of a lot of aftermarket filters is highly porous, meaning that it can still block out dirt and other contaminants while allowing maximum airflow.

DNA air filter for Yamaha Y15ZR

Improved Filtration

By using oil on the gauze, the filter is able to catch all of the dirty elements that may harm your engine. In fact, it is generally even more effective at filtering than paper filters.

Better Engine Protection

Thanks to better filtration, aftermarket air filters offer better engine protection than other stock filters. Since the oiled gauze is able to trap and keep out more dirt and dust than paper filters, your engine will be better protected from the damaging effects of these particulates.

Additionally, in environments with a lot of dust, OEM paper and foam filters will generally need to be replaced quickly. They can easily be clogged up with dust and dirt, which blocks air needed to power your engine.

There are foam aftermarket filters for off-road use but these need to be cleaned more often.

Longer filter lifespan

Aftermarket air filters are typically made to last longer than OEM ones. We know how paper responds to water. Similarly, in our experience, foam OEM filters tend to crumble in our humid environment.

Just make sure you or the garage you visit cleans and oils the aftermarket filter at regular intervals.

Performance benefits of aftermarket air filters

We will not mislead you by telling you that fitting an aftermarket air filter will result in an immediate high level of performance gain. Instead, you will need to recalibrate the ECU to fully exploit the benefits. However, there are several small gains from the outset, from our experience.

Horsepower

One of the reasons why riders may choose to upgrade their air filter is to gain more horsepower. However, this benefit is only noticeable when other recalibrations and modifications are made.

Why does an air filter need other modifications? An air filter simply allows maximum airflow into the engine, but it is the ECU which decides to inject how much fuel. More air plus fuel equals more bang.

Still, modern ECUs do have a wide range of mapping programmed in and are able to account for the extra airflow to a certain degree.

On the other hand, DNA offers several “stages” of air filters for motorcycle owners. for example, there is the “normal” Stage 1, Stage 2 and Stage 3 depending on the level of modification and ECU remapping.

DNA air filter for BMW R 1300 GS

Torque

There is no horsepower without torque. Along with the potential for power increase, an advanced air filter will allow for extra oxygen which in turn results in overall better combustion process which increases torque.

Throttle Response

As we mentioned earlier, a smooth flow of air will let then engine breathe easier. You can certainly feel that the engine has softer response when you install an aftermarket air filter, and the engine will rev much quicker when you snap the throttle open. You will also see smoother torque and horsepower curves should you place the bike on a dyno due to this.

Fuel Efficiency

One of the other main benefits of installing an aftermarket air filter is the improvement in fuel efficiency. When filters do not let in enough clean air, engines have to work overtime to compensate for this loss. This leads to excess fuel consumption.

Our experience with DNA saves between 10% to 20% fuel on different motorcycles compared to when using OEM filters.

DNA air filter for Triumph 400 series

THIS IS NOT A PAID ADVERTISEMENT

Whether you ride a 200hp sportbike or scooter, one essential area of the body that should protected is the spine. This is why we should invest in a good back protector.

While we buy the best helmet to protect our heads, and jackets that protect our elbows and shoulders, we often forget about our backbone. Like your motorcycle’s main frame, the spine is what holds the entire body together and an injury will have lasting consequences. Back injuries are common, thus wearing a decent back protector can massively reduce the chances of a damaged spine if you’re unlucky enough to be involved in an accident.

We can just see how many professional and riders have walked away from horrific crashes since the advent of back protectors in the 80s. Those who unfortunately did not had injuries to other parts of their bodies instead of the spine. (Wayne Rainey broke his spine just below the neck as his head was planted into the gravel, instead of a direct impact.)

Many modern leather or textile jackets and suits already house back protectors but some are inadequate, except if the protector is CE Level 1 or Level 2 certified. As such, we strongly recommend spending a little extra to give yourself maximum protection with a dedicated back protector. These absorb an impact far better than the flimsy piece of foam you find stuffed down the back of most jackets and some racesuits.

So, what should we look for when we buy a dedicated back protector? Here are a few simple tips to bear in mind when buying:

  • It has EN 1621:2013 CE-certification or approval to either Level 1 or Level 2.
  • Try on the protector with the kit you will be wearing, making sure it does not dig into your neck. Try a smaller one if it does.
  • Check the shoulder straps are adjustable for maximum comfort.
  • Some back protectors are articulated, while some are one piece. Test them out to see which is more comfortable or suits your needs.
  • Most have an adjustable Velcro waistband. Make sure it is a suitable size for you.
  • There are that extend to your coccyx (the tailbone at the bottom of your spine), so may try that out, too.

Brake pads are the last thing that stops your vehicle, and keeps you from ramming the vehicle in front, or going off a cliff. Thus, its importance cannot be underemphasised.

But there are three main types of brake pads, namely sintered, ceramic, and organic. So let us take a look at the differences among all three, plus their pros and cons.

A word on asbestos

But first, a safety message. Asbestos was widely used in brake pads many years ago. There are six types of this mineral and their melting points range between 400° C to 1,040° C. It is also inflammable. As such, it became the natural material for brake pads. In fact, asbestos was also widely used in other sectors and products such as electrical insulation, lining for ceramic cookware, house insulation, even firefighting suits.

However, it was discovered in the 1970s that asbestos is toxic to humans and causes mesothelioma (a type of cancer that causes a thin lining of tissue over internal organs), asbestosis (long-term inflammation and scarring of the lungs), and lung cancer when the dust is inhaled. As such, the use of asbestos containing products has been banned in 66 countries.

However, Russia continues to be the biggest miner and exporter of the material (790,000 tonnes in 2020), and there are concerns of it being used in cheap aftermarket brake pads produced in India and China. So, DO NOT skimp on the cost of brake pads and use only those from reputable brands! Additionally, do not breathe in the dust when a mechanic sprays air onto your brake components to clean them.

On the other hand, Malaysia has banned five types of asbestos i.e. crocidolite, actinolite, anthophyllite, amosite, and tremolite, but allows chrysotile for “controlled use” in the private manufacturing sector, while banning it completely from public buildings including schools and hospitals.

Sintered/Metallic brake pads

These brake pads are made of copper, steel, iron and other metals mixed with a graphite binding component.

Pros:

  • Metallic brake pads perform better than organic and ceramic brake pads in a wide range of temperatures.
  • They also continue to perform well even under the heaviest rainstorms.
  • They’re responsive and require minimal pressure on the pedal. The metal also withstands heat well.
  • They are more resistant to wear, hence last longer.

Cons:

  • Metallic brake pads are noisier than other types.
  • They cause more wear on the brake discs.
  • Metallic brakes are pricier than organic brake pads but more affordable than ceramic ones.
Organic brake pads

These contain the replacement materials for asbestos, known as non-asbestos organic (NOA). This mixed material is made of rubber, Kevlar, fibreglass and carbon compounds bound together with resin.

Pros:

  • Organic brake pads are the least expensive on the market and recommended for normal driving.
  • They generate enough friction to effectively stop the average vehicle yet do not produce as much heat as other pad materials.

Cons:

  • Organic brake pads wear out more quickly than other types, which means you will have to replace them more often.
  • They also do not work as well as ceramic and metallic pads in extreme temperatures.
  • In addition, you have to apply a bit more pressure on the lever than you do with other types of brake pads.
Ceramic brake pads

These brake pads are made from a type of dense ceramic that has copper fibres in it in order to increase friction and conductivity.

Pros:

  • Ceramic is the quietest brake pad material.
  • Ceramic brake pads perform better than organic brakes in a range of temperatures.
  • They last long but has less wear on steel brake discs compared to sintered pads.

Cons:

  • Ceramic brake pads are pricier than other types.
  • Plus, they underperform in extreme cold.
  • In addition, ceramic does not absorb as much heat as other materials.
What is missing here?

You would probably notice there is mention of carbon brake pads. Well, truth is, carbon brake pads for road use is not 100% carbon, but are of mixed materials so you would find sintered-carbon or carbon-ceramic brake pads.

True carbon brake pads are only used in the highest echelons of racing i.e. MotoGP and Formula 1.

A word about copper

More and more manufacturers are switching away from having copper fibres in ceramic and all other types of brake pads as brake dust containing copper had been found to pollute the environment, especially in waterways.

SBS is one manufacturer who are doing so and their copper-free brake pads are marked as “Better Brakes.”

The radial motorcycle tyre is so common now that almost no one gives a second thought to it. Jump on almost any big bike above 250cc and ride away… it would most probably be rolling on radial tyres. Even riders who moved up from mopeds do not question what radial tyres actually mean.

But how do you know if that tyre has radial construction? Just look for the “R” letter after its size info or speed symbol.

The radial tyre is fairly recent especially for motorcycles, compared to when the pneumatic tyre (tyre filled with air) was invented.

The first pneumatic tyre

Contrary to popular belief, the patent for the pneumatic was lodged by Scottish inventor, Robert William Thompson in 1847, instead of John Dunlop. His invention, however, did not make it to production.

But it was John Dunlop, a veterinarian, who created the first working pneumatic tyre in 1888. He invented it for his 10-year-old son who complained of headaches after riding their bicycle fitted with wooden wheels.

A pneumatic tyre means there is a layer of air inside the tyre. That air provides elasticity and hence comfort. Adjusting the air pressure adjusts comfort, and also performance.

It has to be said that the early pneumatic tyres were glued to their wheels to prevent the air from leaking and the pressure was not adjustable like in modern tyres. It was the Michelin brothers who figured a way to mount inflatable tyres without gluing them onto their rims. Incidentally, the French word for the tyre it ‘pneu‘.

Radial vs. bias-ply

Early tyres were essentially bias-ply until the advent of the radial tyre.

Bias-ply (also known as cross-ply) describes the plies that form the body the tyre being laid diagonally from bead to bead. Subsequent plies are laid on top at opposing angles, forming a criss-cross pattern (hence the name cross-ply). This allows the tyre to flex easily hence greater comfort. However, this quality was also the main disadvantage of this type of tyre, as it causes increased rolling resistance (takes more effort to get going), together with less traction and control at high speeds (the tyre deforms). Bias-ply tyres generally could not withstand the high centrifugal forces at high speeds, leading to blowouts.

On the other hand, a radial tyre utilizes ply cords that extend from bead to bead and parallel to each other, usually around 90-degrees to the tyre’s travel, instead of diagonally across like in bias-ply tyres. The plies are held in place by stabilizer belts that run just beneath the tread. The advantages of radial tyres are numerous including longer tread life, better steering control, improved fuel economy due to less rolling resistance, and better grip.

The history of the motorcycle radial tyre

It was the French tyre maker Michelin who patented the radial tyre in 1946. They finally developed the first practical radial tyre (starting with cars) in 1951 and fitted to the Lancia Aurelia. It took more than 30 years later before radial tyres made their debut on road bikes.

Who actually created the first production radial motorcycle tyres is still up for debate.

Pirelli claims it was first in 1983, when they introduced radial tires for the Honda VF1000 R. However, that tyre was only available for the said motorcycle.

Michelin, on the other hand, was the first to offer (albeit a small range) of radial tires for all brands of motorcycles in 1987 called the A59X and M59X, front and rear, respectively.

But whatever the stakes, it was Michelin who did the most research into radial tyres from the very start. The actual concept of a radial tire does though belong to Michelin, as its engineers came up with the idea for automotive tires in the 1930s.

Michelin claims its program for radial motorcycle tires began in 1981. The majority of the development work was undertaken at the racetrack with three-time World Champion Freddie Spencer running a single radial tire on the rear only of his Honda NSR500 for the 1985 season.

The next stage in radial tire development saw Michelin, in 1990, introduce silica into the rubber tire compound to resolve the early problems of finding the right balance between grip and rolling resistance, without adversely affecting the tyre’s grip. By adding silica, Michelin was also able to improve wet weather performance and its grip. It took another nine years for the Michelin Pilot Sport to become the first production bike road tire to have this feature.

Michelin also took another step to develop the first dual compound tyre, introducing a harder wearing compound at the centre combined with a softer and gripper compound on the shoulders in 1994. It was first used exclusively for racing and the development of the tyre finally bore fruit as the Michelin Power Race in 2005. The tyre was the first ever racing tyre that could be homologated for road use.

The first true all-road dual compound tyre was the Michelin Pilot Road 2 with 2CT (2 compound technology) in 2006.

Conclusion

Tyre technology and development have gone through so many milestones especially in the last 5 decades. The rise of ever more powerful, faster, and heavier motorcycles today can be directly traced to the advancement in radial tyres.

Being a moto-journalist since 1998 and having test ridden so many motorcycles, I am constantly being asked which is my favourite or which one will I recommend to own. And since this is the review of the new Triumph Speed 400, it is a forgone conclusion to a now rhetorical reason, right? Well, you need to read to the end to find out, just like a Coen Brothers’ movie.

What is the Triumph Speed 400?

The Speed 400 is one of two variants in Triumph’s new 400cc range, the result of their cooperation with Bajaj Auto which began many years ago. The range is seen as the entry level point into the Triumph family, and both take on the shape of the modern-classic Bonneville.

The 400 range which consists of this Speed 400 and the Scrambler 400 X are powered a 398cc, single-cylinder, DOHC, 4-valve engine which produces 39.5hp at 8,000 RPM ad 37.5Nm of torque at 6,500 RPM. Make no mistake, this is a Triumph-spec engine, unlike the one which powers the Dominar 400 which shares some of its architecture with the KTM 390 Duke’s.

Perhaps we need to reiterate that this lineup is built by Bajaj, but the bikes are definitely Triumphs.

What we liked, Number 5: The simplicity

Before motorcycles were segmented and micro-segmented into different categories, the Bonneville’s type of motorcycles were the only motorcycles, hence you can label it as a “standard motorcycle.” They were pure in the sense that there are two wheels, an engine, a fuel tank, a seat, a handlebar, footpegs.

Point is, motorcycles were uncluttered, uncomplicated, and in other words, simple. You only needed to jump on it, start, and go.

The Triumph Speed 400 embodies this perfectly. There is no need to fettle with the engine mapping, level of traction control, connect your smartphone.

Just ride.

What we liked, Number 4: Its specification

While this seems like a contradiction to Number 5, it is a necessity. The Speed 400 may be an entry-level model, but it has some “hidden” modern features.

The engine is modern throughout and features EFI and liquid-cooling, and is Euro 5-compliant. Likewise, the suspension consists of upside-down forks (albeit unadjustable) and a monoshock at the back, similar to the Bajaj Dominar 400’s. The instrument panel looks classic with a large speedometer, but there is a small tachometer at the side. There is traction control which can be switched on or off, but no ride mode. Brakes are Bybre and ABS is dual-channel. There is also a USB charging port, cleverly placed behind and just underneath the instrument panel.

What we liked, Number 3: That engine

It pulled really hard. It revved so quickly that it gobbled up the first three gears instantly, causing us to run into the rev limiter the first time we hammered down. It even continued to push the bike hard in 6th from 6,000 RPM and onwards to its top speed of around 160km/h.

The good spread of torque is a character of all Triumph motorcycles, letting you accelerate hard from whichever point you currently are in the rev range, in any gear. Consequently, it made short work of riding in traffic or up our KL-Genting Highlands test route.

It needed more gear-shifting than bigger bikes when we tested it by going up the Genting Highlands road, but the torque was always present for punching out of slower corners. But because it is a smaller capacity, it never overwhelms and you are not afraid to open up, compared to bigger capacity bikes where you have to judge your throttle, braking, steering actions judiciously or risk going wide.

The throttle response was smooth – again, a trait of all Triumphs – meaning the bike reacts exactly to the twist of the wrist. And this made it so much fun hammering the bike up and down Genting Highlands.

It even cruised happily at 130km/h (8,000 RPM) all day without sounding like the engine will explode.

What we liked Number 2: Its handling!

We have said this over and over again: Triumph makes the best handling bikes and we are glad that the Speed 400 is no exception. In fact, it is the best handling Triumph!

All we needed to do was, for want of a better word, chuck the bike into any corner. See the corner, chuck it in. See another corner, chuck it in. The wide handlebar made countersteering a cinch because it responded immediately to our inputs.

The suspension may seem rudimentary but it absolutely soaked up all the bumps and holes on that road. We were a little apprehensive at first but discovered that no amount of road imperfection apart from speed bumps could throw the bike off its cornering line.

First victim to discover this was a VW Golf R32 driver who tried to race us. He was gone in just two corners. Another Proton X50 driver thought he could do the same, even by attempting to squeeze us off our cornering line. He was also despatched after two corners.

On the way down, a KTM 390 Duke rider gave chase but was left behind after the section consisting of “S” bends. Next was a group consisting of a Honda CBR250R, Yamaha YZF-R25, and several Yamaha Y16ZRs. They could not keep up after we chucked the Speed 400 through that one particularly tricky slippery and reducing radius left-hander.

On the SPE, a BMW R 1200 GS rider saw us in his mirrors and opened up. Of course, we could not keep up in a straight line due to the huge engine power deficit, yet we managed to cling on behind him in the corners as we chucked the bike around at speeds between 120-130km/h without even going off throttle. He was surprised to see us still behind when the road straightened out and he rolled out to see what bike it was.

How we wished we could paint the silhouettes of our “kills” on the side of the tank, just like how fighter pilots do!

Now, this would not have been even a blip of a talking point if the Speed 400 was a sportbike, but it is not – it is a modern classic standard. Comparing it to the likes of the 390 Duke, the Duke needs more commitment and a skilled and experienced rider to ride it fast, whereas we think almost anyone can be fast on the Speed 400. Heck, I do not think I went up and down Genting this fast even on the Triumph Street Triple 765 RS!

To put it into perspective, it was like riding a 250cc naked bike with well-sorted suspension, great throttle response, and smooth torque.

What we liked, Number 1: Accessibility and practicality

Great features, engine, handling, all wrapped up in an accessible and practical package. The seat is low and comfortable, with the handlebars placed at just the right height. The brakes were good although it needed a slightly harder pull, the clutch action was smooooooth. The gears slotted in solidly. The bike was light on paper and could be felt immediately. It went fast immediately when we wanted to be fast, and cruised serenely when we wanted to relax.

You could install a tank bag and side bags for touring. The engine is fuel efficient, wringing out 300+km from 12 litres.

And all these, for just RM26,900 (selling price) which puts it as a power player in the 250cc-400cc segment.

Shortcomings

Of course there were, but they probably due to rider preferences and riding styles.

Firstly, the first three gears where too short and the space from third to fourth a little wide. That left us changing up and down between third and fourth while in traffic. This can be fixed by swapping the stock front sprocket out to one with one tooth bigger, or dropping two teeth out back. It should make the engine run at lower revs during cruises, and help with rolling speeds into corners.

Secondly, we detected iffy fuel injected between 5,000-6,000 RPM on partial throttle in all gears. We circumvented this by either using a higher gear in lower RPMs, and lower gear above those RPMs. Still, it should not exist for a Triumph.

Thirdly, the bike tended to squirm during hard braking due to the aggressive steering angle (24.3 degrees). However, this was cured by clamping our inner thighs hard onto the sides of the fuel tank. That said, they bike does not like being trail braked into corners due to its rearward weight distribution, consequence of its riding position. It also waggled the handlebar in really high-speed corners. We suspect this can be easily fixed by increasing the rear shock’s preload to move more weight to the front.

However, these are just (very) minor niggles to detract from the overall enjoyment of riding the bike. We had to come up with these for the sake of a balanced review.

Closing

Coming back to the opening, can I place the Triumph Speed 400 as one of my personal favourites? And would I recommend buying it?

YES. And YES.

Continuing with our Glossary of Motorcycle Terms, moving to those that begin with the letter “H.”

Hammer down: To accelerate quickly or ride aggressively.

Handlebars: Where the rider places his hands to control the motorcycle’s steering. There are several variations of handlebars for different riding postures and uses i.e. touring, racing, cruising, etc.

Hang-off: The action by the rider moving his body mass to the inside and off the motorcycle when taking a corner. More commonly called the kneedown, or at least when the knee does touch the road.

Hardtail: A motorcycle with no rear suspension.

Head: No, not the toilet, but a short name for the engine’s cylinder head.

Header: The “front” part of the exhaust system with attaches to the engine block. It then leads to the downpipe/downtube, to the catalytic converter and finally, the muffler/silencer.

Headlight/s: The main light or lights at the front of the motorcycle for illumination and to provide more visibility to other road users.

Heat: High temperatures whether relating to the bike, or whether, or just anything to do with temperature. It also means the police or authorities in American movies.

Highside: A motorcycle crash involving the rear wheel temporarily losing traction and suddenly regaining traction, and throwing the rider over the bike’s handlebars, as opposed to the “lowside” where the bike and rider drop onto the ground.

Holeshot: Racing term used in motorcycle racing referring to the rider who takes the lead and reaches the first corner or turn ahead of the other competitors immediately after the start of the race.

Holeshot device: First used in motocross, this device locks down the forks down to let the rider have better control at the start. Pressing the brake dips the forks down further and disengages the device for normal suspension operation. The device was subsequently adopted first by Ducati in MotoGP. However, the MotoGP holeshot device lowers both the front and rear of the bike, to lower its centre of gravity hence limit wheelies when the motorcycle accelerates hard from the start line, practically turning the bike into a dragster.

Hooning: Hooning is a term that is often used to describe reckless and irresponsible behaviour on a motorcycle or any other vehicle. It refers to engaging in dangerous stunts, excessive speeding, and disregarding traffic laws and safety regulations. Hooning typically involves wheelies, stoppies, burnouts, drifting, and other high-risk maneuvers. Otherwise known as “rempit” in Malaysia.

Horn: Audible device used to warn others.

Horsepower (HP): A unit of measurement that quantifies the power output of an engine. It indicates the rate at which the engine can perform work i.e. the maximum amount of work produced by an engine. The higher the horsepower, or engine speed, the more power the engine can generate.

Here is the list of motorcycle terms beginning with the letter “G.”

Gas: A state for matter, but more commonly the short form of gasoline i.e. petrol, usually used by those in the American continents.

Gear Ratio: The ratio between the number of teeth on two meshing gears in the transmission. Gear ratios determine the relationship between engine speed (RPM) and the motorcycle’s speed. Lower gear ratios provide more torque at lower speeds, while higher gear ratios allow higher speeds at lower engine RPM.

Gearbox: Also known as transmission. This “box” or unit contains the gears, hence ratios for the rider to select the appropriate gear or “speed” for different riding conditions.

Giggle Gas: Defined as a slang term meaning nitrous oxide or “NOS” connected to the fuel system to boost acceleration performance. The reason it is called “giggle gas” is because it was first intended as a gas to relax patients into a state of euphoria, which includes laughter.

Gixxer: Suzuki GSX-R series of motorcycles.

Gore-Tex: Gore-Tex is a waterproof and breathable fabric is highly regarded for its advanced membrane technology. This membrane is designed to prevent water from penetrating while allowing sweat and moisture to escape, making it an ideal material for motorcycle rain gear. Gore-Tex is known for its durability and is commonly used in high-performance outdoor apparel. Its ability to keep riders dry and comfortable during wet rides has made it a popular choice among motorcycle enthusiasts.

GPS (Global Positioning System): A navigation system that uses satellite signals to provide accurate positioning and navigation information. GPS devices or smartphone apps can be used by riders to navigate unfamiliar routes or plan rides efficiently. Currently, there are a total 31 GPS satellites in the higher geosynchronous orbit 18,000km above the Earth. The position of the GPS device is triangulated by 3 satellites at any given time.

Gremlin: An unknown and persistent mechanical issue in a motorcycle.

Grey Market Bike: A term that describes a bike model never officially sold in a particular market locale but later privately imported in the “grey market.” Also known as parallel imports.

Continuing with the series, we move on to the terms beginning with the letter “F.”

Fairing: The protective bodywork of plastic, fiberglass, or carbon fibre shells surrounding the motorcycle’s front end, including the handlebars, windscreen, and headlight. Fairings reduce wind resistance and provide aerodynamic benefits, especially at higher speeds.

Fatigue: A term describing the tendency of a material or part to fail under repeated use. Also for an extremely tired rider.

Feathering the Brake: Feathering the brake refers to gently applying the brakes on a motorcycle. Instead of abruptly grabbing the brake lever, the rider applies gradual pressure to modulate the braking force. Feathering the brake allows for a smoother and more controlled deceleration, especially when precise speed adjustments are needed, such as navigating tight turns or approaching a stop.

Flog/Flogging: A slang term referencing riding a motorcycle aggressively.

Flow: The movement of gasses and liquids. Also describes when a motorcyclist is riding smoothly, effortlessly.

Flywheel: Rotating weight used to dampen engine vibration or designed to improve the machine’s smooth operation between power strokes.

Footpeg/Footrest: Footpegs or footrests are part of a motorcycle where riders place their feet while riding. Footpegs are located on both sides of the motorcycle frame and provide support and stability for the rider’s feet. Some can be adjusted to accommodate different riding positions and preferences.

Fork: The front suspension system and assembly supporting the front wheel. It is responsible for absorbing impacts from the road, helping the front tyre to provide consistent traction, and contributing to the motorcycle’s overall handling and ride quality. Forks may look the same overall, but there are many technologies involved.

Four-Season Gear: Four-Season Gear: Four-Season Gear refers to specialized riding gear designed to provide protection and comfort to motorcycle riders and their passengers throughout the year, regardless of weather conditions. This gear is precisely engineered to withstand various weather elements and keep riders and pillions safe and comfortable during different seasons.

Frankenbike: A bike composed of parts from many motorcycles with no discernible make. It could be junk or a very nice, cobbled-together custom bike.

Do you know that MotoGP bikes have no ABS (anti-lock braking system)? In fact, the system is also not used in the Moto2 and Moto3 categories.

The short answer is ABS is banned by MotoGP’s governing body, the FIM. In fact, it is also banned in the World Superbike Championship (WSBK). On the other hand, ABS is allowed in the FIM Endurance World Championship. There are several reasons behind this, which we will describe here.

1. Braking should be a rider’s skill

Marc Marquez and Dani Pedrosa did experiment on the system as far back as 2014 and was proven to work especially well in wet weather.

However, the FIM decreed that braking action should be left as a rider and the respective team’s setup prowess, rather than having the rider grabbing the brake and letting the system take care of the real braking action.

See how far aerodynamics development has gotten in just a few short years? It has gotten to the stage that the riders have to ride their bikes like how their machines warrant them to, instead of how the riders want their bikes to “listen” to them.

2. Increased braking and stopping distances

Braking distance can be increased, given the ABS system’s on-off-on-off operation. So again, the onus of how to brake is shifted back to the riders and their teams.

3. To forbid overdevelopment

Although not succinctly stated, many MotoGP insiders have said that Dorna and FIM do not want the factories to develop ABS technology to the level where it supplements or even takes over from braking as a rider’s skill. Also, development will certainly cost a lot of money, which runs counter to Dorna’s wish of keeping the costs down in order to see more participation on the grid. Heck, a single carbon-carbon brake system in MotoGP already costs USD20,000.

So, there you are, the reasons why ABS is not allowed in MotoGP.

We have since published the Glossary of Motorcycle Terms for the letters “A,” “B,” “C,” and “D.” So let us push on to the letter “E.”

The point of this is to help you identify and understand motorcycle terms better. It makes it much easier to explain the terms to your riding buddies and impressing them. *LOL*

Motorcycle terms beginning with the letter “E”

ECE: Acronym for the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe. It was established in order to promote economic cooperation and integration among its member states. As such, the ECE committee created sets of regulations for all products sold in the region, including those for the motorcycle industry, such as biker gear, motorcycle parts, etc. For example, the ECE R22.06 standard for motorcycle helmets, EN 1621 for the protective padding in rider gear, ECE R90 for brake pads, and many more.

ECM: This acronym could have several meanings but mainly as an electronic control unit. Some identify it as the engine control module, or electronic control module.

ECU: Electronic Control Unit. See ECM above.

EFI: Electronic fuel injection. Fuel supply to the internal combustion engine is controlled electronically by the ECU, which acts on the fuel injectors to deliver the correct amount of fuel, at the corresponding timing, and duration.

Electronic Ignition: A computer-controlled method that conveys a high-tension current to the spark plug(s), to ignite fuel-air mixture. The timing is controlled by the engine control unit.

Electrode: The tips between which the electrical ions jump across in a spark plug.

Electrolyte: A fluid inside a battery, usually an acid.

Endo: The old term for a stoppie, as in lifting the rear wheel off the ground while braking hard or stopping. Conversely, lifting the front wheel off the ground is called a “wheelie.”

Enduro: Two meanings here: 1) A motorcycle that combines the off-road attributes of a motorcrosser and street bike, i.e. complete with lights and can be registered for road use.  Enduro motorcycles are designed to handle challenging terrains, including dirt trails, rocks, and forest tracks. 2) A motorcycle competition that combines off-road racing and long-distance riding and/or over obstacles.

Engine Cut-Off Switch: The engine cut-off switch, commonly called a “kill switch,” is located on the handlebar control housing as a safety feature that instantly cuts off power to the motorcycle’s engine when activated. It is especially useful should a crashed motorcycle’s engine continues to run.

Engine Displacement: More commonly known as the engine’s size. It is the total swept volume of the pistons in an engine’s cylinders, usually measured in cubic centimeters (cc), litres, or cubic inches (for American motorcycles).

Engine Guards: Engine guards are crash guards designed to absorb impact and redirect force away from the engine and other vital components and serve as a protective barrier between the motorcycle and the ground or other objects. Typically made of durable materials like steel, aluminium, or polymer. There are several types depending on the motorcycle’s part to protect i.e. forks, frame, engine sump, engine covers, the rider’s legs, exhaust, etc.

Exhaust: Or exhaust system, to carry away the gases resulting from combustion of the fuel-air mixture in the engine’s combustion chamber.

Expansion Chamber: The expansion chamber is a motorcycle exhaust system used on two-stroke motorcycles (four-stroke engines do not require expansion chambers). It consists of a series of tuned cones and chambers that help improve the flow of exhaust system gases and increase engine power. You can identify it as the part with the largest cross section along the exhaust pipe.

The Malaysian authorities have finally mandated the fitment of ABS to new motorcycles 150cc and above beginning next year. It is something many quarters including motorcyclists and transportation safety experts have requested for a long time.

However, we need to understand more about what it is and how it works, because there is no point of having the feature without knowing so. In fact, there are many fallacies about ABS that could endanger the rider’s life and limbs instead being useful.

Misconceptions about ABS

Let us start with this before explaining further.

  • “ABS activates whenever I brake”

Not true. ABS only activates if the rider brakes so hard that the wheel is starting to lock up (stop moving). It is only so when the system triggers, not during every facet of braking.

From MCN. Please click on photo for the full story.
  • “ABS helps me stop quicker and in shorter distance.”

Not necessarily. The system does help the bike to stop quicker if one brakes super hard over a dry, grippy surface as the threshold between maximum braking power and the wheel locking up is much higher.

However, maximum braking over a slippery surface may take a little longer as the tyre is more prone to locking up/sliding i.e. hard braking over wet painted road lines. As such, the system activates earlier/easier to let the wheel continue turning, resulting in a longer stopping distance.

  • “ABS prevents me from braking harder.”

Not true. ABS activates because the rider has exceeded the tyre’s available traction, thus he cannot brake harder even without ABS.

  • “ABS adds too much weight.”

This was true with the older systems which weighed 11 kg in 1988. Current systems could weigh as little as 0.7 kg.

  • “I can release the lever and reapply braking quickly if the tyre loses traction.”

True, but no human can match the ABS’s 24 Hz frequency, besides applying the correct amount of brake pressure.

What does ABS do?
  • ABS stands for anti-lock braking system.
  • It avoids the wheel or wheels from locking up (becoming stationary), especially when hard braking is applied whether in panic situations or over slippery surface.
  • Locked wheel/wheels result in loss of control and skidding.
  • Therefore, ABS assists the rider to slow down or stop while in control.
  • Depending on the motorcycle’s speed, the rider can also swerve to avoid the hazard (example: a car pulling out in front of you) because the wheel(s) continue to roll.
ABS vs. no ABS
Advantages of ABS
  • Most effective braking is at the threshold of wheel lock-up. In other words, just when the tyre is about to lose traction and cause the wheel to stop moving.
  • Therefore, with ABS, the rider can brake at maximum pressure without losing control.
  • Prevents wheels from locking up and skidding under heavy braking.
  • The rider can still steer the bike during extreme braking.
  • Better control under hard braking on slippery surfaces.

How does ABS work?
  • A small metallic ring gear is attached to each wheel (for dual-channel ABS).
  • The ring gear is also called tone ring or tone wheel.

  • A magnetic sensor is placed over the tone ring.

  • The resulting electrical pulses from the sensor are sent to the ABS electronic control unit (ECU).
  • The ECU is linked to the ABS pump.
ABS module. The black portion is the ECU
  • There are valves in the pump.
  • The ECU measures the frequency of the pulses from the tone ring.
  • If the ECU senses a dramatic and sudden drop in the pulses, it knows the wheel is about to lock up.
  • When the pulse reaches zero (the wheel has stopped rotating), the ECU will close the valve in the pump to reduce the brake fluid’s hydraulic pressure.
  • The drop in pressure eases the brake pads away from the brake disc.
  • The wheel will rotate again due to the bike’s forward momentum.
  • Brake pressure will resume immediately following the release, as long as the brake lever is pressed.
  • The pressure release/re-application happens up to 24 Hz (24 times per second).
  • The process will continue as long as the brake lever is held down or until the bike stops.
IMPORTANT NOTE TO RIDERS
  • ABS only activates when the wheel(s) start to lock up.
  • The brake lever(s) will pulsate when ABS activates.
  • Do not release the lever(s) when they pulsate if you still need to continue braking.
  • ABS provides the chance to steer or swerve away from the hazard (example: That cat crossing the road), so look away from the hazard to avoid target fixation and STEER!

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