• New tyres need to be broken in.

  • Pushing on new tyres can be dangerous.

  • The break-in process isn’t difficult but calls for some restraint.

Upon the completion of replacing my tyres, J.S. (Head Mechanic at Sunny Cycle) warned me, “Don’t push on the new tyres yet. One guy did that right after leaving the shop and almost high-sided.”

His words couldn’t be truer. New tyres need to be broken in before you can push hard on them.

Why are New Tyres Slippery?

Notice the shiny surface on a new tyre? No, that’s not “wax,” contrary to popular belief. Instead it’s a release agent which tyre manufacturers use to coat the mold in order for the tyre to be removed easily.

Certain makers don’t use release agents but utilize different compound mixes in the curing process for the soft rubber to flow easier into in the mold. This type of compound makes it easier for the rubber to form the intricate patterns on the tread and markings. But it also leaves a shiny surface.

How to Break them in Then?

Our job is to rid the tyres of that shiny surface.

Besides that, there are many different chemicals and components (up to 150!) that make up a tyre. While it may seem that they are homogenously, they actually require repeated heating and cooling process (heat cycles) to do so. This could only be done by introducing forces and stresses during riding.

No, weaving around like MotoGP riders doesn’t work. Keep in mind that their tyres are already warmed up at least an hour before they take to the track.

Manufacturers actually suggest between 150 to 300 kilometres of riding to break in your new tyres. As for the sides, introduce lean angle progressively rather charge into corners for max lean.

Also, mind your acceleration and braking. Stay progressive and smooth for those few hundred kilometres.

Bear in mind that tyres have “memory.” No, we don’t mean that they’ve got built-in RAM chips. Instead, how your tyres behave later in their lifespan depends on how you broke them in. If you tend to be extra aggressive, the extra heat and stresses will “cook” the compound. You will probably end up with a comparatively harder compound by their mid-life. However, take it too easy and they will be slippery even after the 200 – 300 km break-in period.

A good indicator is if the new tyres turn blue after a day’s ride, it means you’ve pushed too hard. If they’re still too shiny and almost like new for too long, it means you’re too conservative.

There’s a middle ground in there which you can find over time.

  • Lebih daripada 10,000 kemalangan jalan raya adalah akibat daripada penggunaan tayar celup.
  • JPJ akan bekerjasama dengan JKR dan SIRIM untuk menguatkuasakannya.
  • Kita sebagai penunggang motosikal perlulah sentiasa berwaspada dengan cebisan tayar celup di atas jalan raya pada setiap masa.


  • More than 10,000 road accidents resulted from the use of retreaded tyres.

  • The JPJ will work closely with JKR and SIRIM for enforcement.

  • We motorcyclists must watch out for pieces of tyre retread at all times.

One of the biggest dangers for us motorcyclists is hitting a piece of separated truck tyre tread. They are usually the carcasses of retreaded tyres.

There’s not much to cause a motorcycle to lose control and hitting a large piece of tough rubber invariably sends us off the road. We can look forward to extensive bodywork or motorcycle component damage even if we don’t crash.

Apart from that, The Mythbusters conclusively tested that a piece of retread flying off a tyre at speed can decapitate a person standing directly behind.

Last Friday, the Minister of Malaysian Public Road Works, Baru Bian said that more than 10,000 road accidents resulted from retreaded tyres.

JPJ officers checking tyres – The Sun Daily

When contacted by MyMetro, the Chief Director of the Road Transport Department (Jabatan Pengangkutan Jalan – JPJ) Datuk Seri Shahruddin Khalid said that the department will work closely with the Malaysian Public Works Department (Jabatan Kerja Raya – JKR) and Standard and Industrial Research Institute of Malaysia (SIRIM).

The cooperation will look into the issue of enforcement and revision of the quality of retreaded tyres being sold in Malaysia, especially among heavy trucks.

He added that currently available retreaded tyres adhere to the standards set by SIRIM. Only SIRIM can determine if the tyres conform to their standards.

Datuk Seri Shahruddin claims that the problem arises when operators use tyres retreaded by non-licensed retreaders. As such, SIRIM officers ought to perform the checks and enforcements as they are familiar with the standards set by their organisation.

Truth is, Malaysia isn’t the only country with large numbers of retreaded tyre failure, instead it occurs worldwide.

In the meantime, you and I as motorcyclists need to stay vigilant at all times when riding. Besides that, keep your distance from trucks that are travelling at speed on the highways.

  • The subject of tyre width has been constantly debated.

  • Is a fatter tyre better i.e. 240-section rear tyre?

  • Does it mean a skinnier tyre is bad i.e. tayar sotong?

Just like most parts on a motorcycle, this is a debate that has raged over time. There are bikes of the same capacity and power output but shod with different sized tyres, while there are some bikes that are heavier and still powerful but equipped with narrower tyres.

Click here to check out our guide on choosing the correct tyres.

But what actually brought our attention to writing this article is seeing some bikes rolling on extremely narrow tyres, colloquially known as tayar sotong.

Tayar sotong – courtesy of

Every tyre hence selection is a compromise of sorts. But a wider tyre has a larger footprint thus has better grip, right? You’re not wrong, but it’s a little more complex than that. Let’s take a look.



  • More potential grip especially when cornering.
  • Allows for higher speeds in corners.
  • Allows for deeper lean angles when cornering.
  • More stable in corners.
  • Able to take more engine power.
  • Allows for harder throttle application when leaned over.
  • Safer to trail brake.
  • Allows for harder braking.


  • Usually costs more.
  • Feels “heavier” to steer.
  • Leaves more unused areas at the sides (called “Chicken Strips”) if not fully utilized.
  • Leans the bike further over into a corner than a skinnier tyre.
  • More mass means more power is needed for acceleration (rolling resistance).
  • More mass also means the suspension and brakes have to work harder.



  • Usually costs less.
  • Easier to steer.
  • Easier to utilize the whole tyre.
  • Less rolling resistance for faster acceleration and lower fuel consumption.
  • Less need for heavier springs in the suspension.
  • Leans less into a corner at a given speed compared to a wider tyre.


  • Less potential side grip, limiting cornering speed and lean angles.
  • Bike feels less stable, sometime skittish.
  • Too much throttle will overwhelm the small contact patch.
  • Less force for trail braking or not at all.
  • Must brake less aggressively.

There is also an element to having a wider tyre: Style. To most bikers, a wider rear tyre makes the bike look more aggressive, sportier. But in our experience of testing almost every motorcycle in the market, having a wider or skinnier tyre doesn’t truly matter. There are times when the wider tyres actually felt harsh over public roads.

Fat rear tyres for cruisers – courtesy of

Back to the subject of tayar sotong, these guys are all for straightline acceleration, as seen on those drag bikes (called “sprint” in Malaysia). They may be good for that kind of racing as no cornering is involved but are downright dangerous on the road. That’s because the tyres are just too skimpy for emergency braking and turning. Being too thin and low-profiled also run the risk of damaging the rims over sharp bumps. Plus, this writer has personally witnessed a tayar sotong on another bike burst in front of his eyes.

On the other hand, we’ve also come across tyres too wide for certain rim sizes i.e. a 180-section tyre on a rim for a 160 – due to the misconception that a wider tyre means more grip. Too wide a tyre will have the rim flanges pinch the tyre, resulting in SMALLER footprint than the recommended width.

Types of tyres – courtesy of

To conclude, the best thing to is to adhere to the motorcycle and tyre manufacturers’ recommendations. Want more grip? Choose one with softer compound. Want more mileage? Choose a sport-touring tyre.

Sumber imej: mo-motorcycles-tyres

Artikel oleh: Wahid Ooi Abdullah

  • Tayar adalah cara terbaik bagi menambah baik motosikal.
  • Namun, bagaimanakah anda menentukan tayar yang terbaik?
  • Di sini kami senaraikan beberapa perkara yang perlu dipertimbangkan beserta tip.


  • Tyres are the best way to improve your bike.

  • But how do you determine the best tyres?

  • Here are a few points to consider plus tips.

We’re overstating the obvious here, but tyres are definitely the most important component on your motorcycle. Tyres not only determine the bike’s handling, but also translates to rider safety, confidence, comfort, and fuel consumption in the overall picture.

But what are the factors you should base your choice on?


Do realise that all tyres are a compromise between mileage vs. wear, slow-speed vs. high-speed handling, stability vs. quick-turning, and many more aspects. A tyre that is popular in racing championships such as MotoGP and World Superbike may not suit your riding style or the mileage you have in mind.

That’s because different brands and even the models offered by one brand have different characteristics. For example, Bridgestones generally have hard sidewalls and round profiles compared to Metzelers and Pirellis that have softer sidewalls and round profiles. However, while the Pirelli Supercorsa ‘s profile is rounded, the Pirelli Angel ST sport-touring tyre is triangulated.

Firm sidewalls provide lots of feedback to the rider, but may not provide the confidence and comfort to some riders when the road gets bumpy. Conversely, soft sidewalls are more compliant, thereby providing more confidence over bumps at the expense of some feedback.

Furthermore, certain tyres are made to slide early as a signal to rider who’s nearing the limit (although there’s still much traction left). I personally like this characteristic because I don’t have to second guess the tyres’ limits, especially when riding in the rain or on wet roads. Certain riders may find it disconcerting or terrifying to have their tyres sliding around.


A triangulated profile gives the sensation of quick steering and willingness to lean into a corner. Additionally, a triangulated profile provide better side grip due to bigger contact patches. However, these type of tyres may not feel as stable when riding in a straight line and hard braking.

A round profile tyre offers more stability when running straight and during hard braking, sacrificing quick turning and flickability, hence feeling more neutral. Besides that, round profile tyres allow the rider to maintain his chosen line with comparative ease.

Again, the question: Which one?

It depends on your riding style, preference (read: brand) and skill level. My personal choice is the triangulated profile as I like the extra agility when commuting. But it’s also because of my preference to turn into corners later on the streets (to allow me to see further through corners), which requires me to flick the bike in quickly. Conversely, I prefer the round profile tyre on the track where the corners are set in place and since there’s no need to cilok through traffic.


One undying tyre myth is that stickier race tyres allows riders to go faster. While this certainly applies to the track, it isn’t so on the streets.

As most already know, rubber becomes more pliable when it’s heated up, allowing it to conform to the “peaks” and “valleys” in the road surface. This heating and cooling cycles also alter the tyre’s character, turning the compound harder and harder over time.

Race tyres are made just for that: Racing. They perform at their optimum levels once or twice and then discarded. Race tyres are also designed to withstand more heat due to the extreme speeds; cornering, acceleration and braking forces; and abrasion before they finally degrade. For this reason, they need more time and aggressive riding to get them up to working temperature.

That in turn makes them unpractical for street use, as riding like a madman everywhere is just plain impossible, not to mention dangerous even if one is able to.

Besides that, dry race tyres don’t have much tread or even at all to handle rain, or other dirty conditions on public roads. Wet weather racing tyres on the other hand uses ultra-soft compound that’ll destroy itself in less than 60 km when ridden in the dry.

In this case, you should just go ahead and fit street compound tyres that’ll provide good mileage and still could be occasionally used on the track. As we discussed above, street compound tyres need very little time and aggressive riding to get them working properly.

Tyre technologies have advanced so much that even sport-touring tyres provide better grip for 90% of all the riders out on the streets. The Bridgestone T30 Evo, Pirelli Rosso Corsa, and Pirelli Angel ST, Michelin Pilot 4 are pretty good examples. You’d be surprised what some skilled riders could do with these tyres. Let’s be honest with ourselves here. Most of us couldn’t outride the capabilities of modern sport-touring tyres.

On the other hand, it’s not wrong to fit supersport tyres if that’s your cup of tea. However, do consider if your riding or intended riding consists mostly of daily commuting on the highway, with just the occasional weekend lemang ride and rarely to never on the track. It may make more sense if commute between Ulu Yam and the city, but how about rainy days?


A tyre’s production date is stamped on the sidewall and you may see something like “3017.” The first two digits denote the production week, while the last two denote the year. In this case, the tyre was produced on the 30th production week in 2017.

Never buy tyres that are six years old or more, including second hand ones.

Speaking of used tyres, I’ve met riders who complained that their used tyres were terrible and couldn’t understand why many other riders swear by them.

Remember the earlier discussion about heat cycles? It’s safe to assume that second hand tyres have gone through a few heat cycles before being put up for sale. The chemicals in the tyre will “outgas” leaving behind a tyre that’s pretty much unlike a fresh tyre anymore, despite looking new and has deep treads.

Apart from that, because each rider has a different riding style or skill, a tyre will take on the characteristics as the direct result. Yes, you may say that tyres have “memory.” This is also one of the few reasons why we feel “different” on a friend’s identical bike.

Again, it’s not wrong to use second hand tyres, but do not compare them to how they would be when new.


Breaking in, or running in, new tyres should be done with some thought.

A tyres need a few repeated heating and cooling cycles to stabilize its chemical compounds. Additionally, how you break in a tyre will determine how it would perform further into its life. Too much stress early in a tyre’s early life will have it hardening quicker. As such, don’t be too gentle or greedy in breaking in your tyres during the initial 300 km.


Sometimes manufacturers would overinflate the tyres of the bikes leaving the factory for storage and transportation. There are dealers who don’t check for this when they deliver the bikes to customers, leading the new owners to believe that new tyres should be overinflated.

Truth is, it’s always best to refer to the bike manufacturer’s recommended pressures. (Ironic, eh?) We’ve posted this question directly to Pirelli during a recent Pirelli tyre clinic and they recommended so as well.

You may increase the tyre pressures when carrying a passenger and luggage, but again, your motorcycle manufacturer has recommendations for these scenarios. Just fill up according to the pressures usually stated on the swingarm for the respective scenarios.


  • Selalunya motosikal lumba akan menggunakan tayar tanpa tiub sementara mereka yang menunggang secara kembara kadang-kadang akan menggunakan tayar bertiub yang lebih mudah untuk dibaiki.
  • Tekanan terlampau tinggi akan menyebabkan bahagian tengah tayar haus dengan lebih cepat dan mempengaruhi pengendalian keseluruhan.
  • Saiz tayar dipilih secara khas bersesuaian dengan bagaimana enjin dan kerangka dibina.
  • Cara yang termudah dan paling banyak digunakan untuk mengetahui saiz tayar adalah melalui sistem metrik dimana tiga nomber berbeza dipaparkan pada dinding tayar contohnya 120/70-11 atau 200/55-17.


  • Usually sports bikes will go for the tubeless type while those who go tour riding will sometimes end up on the tube type as it is usually easier to repair

  • Too much pressure will lead to the middle part of tyre to wear out faster and of course affects the overall handling.

  • Tyre size has been chosen specifically in accordance with how the engine and chassis was developed.

  • The easiest and most common way to tell the tyre size is via the metric system where three different numbers are displayed on the side of the wall like 120/70-11 or 200/55-17.

We all know that there are so many tyre manufacturers producing a huge range of motorcycle tyres for the consumers and it’s almost impossible to keep up with each and every one of them. For some folks, choosing just one set for their beloved bikes can be difficult. Which brand is the best? What type of tyre should I use? What are all these numbers and letters on the tyre? We at Bikes Republic are here to help you guys out! (more…)

A quick guide to motorcycle tyres and how you should choose the right ones.


Michelin and Harley-Davidson collaborate to produce heart-warming short film titled The Gift.


New and limited edition Michelin Pilot Power 3 MotoGP tyres announced.


New Michelin Anakee Wild tyres made exclusively for big bore adventurers. (more…)


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