Bikesrepublic

Wahid Ooi

  • Many GP fans still reminisce about 500cc two-stroke GP bikes.

  • That era is still considered the golden age of GP racing.

  • It was during the time when many riders fought for the title instead of just one or two.

Many motorcycle GP fans are still calling for the return of the 500cc two-stroke GP bikes.

The reasons are simple: These bikes didn’t have rider electronics, and most of all, they were scary and unpredictable. The latter reason caused spectacular high sides and crashes. But they also caused many injuries.

The two-strokes had wafer thin powerbands and required as much finesse as skill to ride. get it wrong and the bike will either high side the rider into hyperspace or seize – so choose your poison.

It was the work of one Walter Kaaden who laid the foundations for competitive two-strokes. Through the development of using the rotary disc valve and expansion chamber exhaust, he would arrive at 200 hp/litre engine in the 1961 MZ Motorrad GP racer. That bike won 13 GPs and 105 podiums between 1955 and 1976.

Four-strokes had dominated the 500cc class up to the early 70s, but it was Barry Sheene who first turned the category into a two-stroke war.

Sheene had first raced on the four-stroke TR500, but it was no match for the three-cylinder two-stroke Kawasakis. The TR500 made only 70 hp and was complex and heavy. The screaming two-strokes made more power and were lighter.

Hence, Suzuki set out to build their own two-stroke but was beaten to the punch by Yamaha. Yamaha produced the OW23 500cc two-stroke racer by drawing on their previous success in 250cc racing and especially the TZ750 beast which they raced in America. Giacomo Agostini took the bike to his last world title in 1975.

Suzuki came up with a new disc valved 500cc racer. The four-cylinders were arranged in a square configuration and the RG500 became known as the “Square Four.” Sheene converted the development into two world championships in 1976 and 1977.

But it was Kenny Roberts Sr. who fought back on the 130hp Yamaha YZR500. The Californian was bred on dirt ovals and introduced rear wheel powerslides besides the kneedown riding technique to the world. He took three back-to-back championships in 1978, 1979 and 1980.

Image credit: motorcycleoftheday.blogspot.com

Suzuki’s Marco Lucchinelli won in 1981 after battling the entire year with Randy Mamola. It was Mamola’s second runner-up finish in two years. Barry Sheene would win one last time in Sweden that year before retiring.

Where’s Honda in all this?

Believe or not, Honda has always been a four-stroke company. The 32-valve four-cylinder oval-pistoned NR500 was the result of this philosophy. Ridden by Freddy Spencer in his first season, it got as high as fifth place in the British Grand Prix before breaking down. in fact, the bike broke down more times than it finished any race.

Honda never likes getting beaten so they acquiesced to building two-strokes beginning 1982. Led by a motocross engineer, the project produced the V3 NS500. It was a novel design since it had one horizontal cylinder with three vertical cylinders. Its design philosophy was to sacrifice outright power for handling. Spencer took the bike to his first world championship in 1983 against Kenny Roberts Sr. on the much more powerful but ill-handling YZR500 (OW70). Spencer beat out Roberts by just 2 points.

Randy Mamola of the USA riding a Honda NS500 during the Transatlantic Challenge Motorcycle meeting at Donington Park on 22nd April 1984. (Photo by Bob Thomas/Getty Images)

Yamaha and Suzuki had gone down the V-four route, by then and Honda debuted the NSR500 V-four in 1984. Defending champion Spencer crashed and injured himself in opening round in South Africa. He would win five races and finish second on another but had bike problems in four races and retired in one. As such, Eddie Lawson won the title on the YZR500 ahead of Randy Mamola (again).

Spencer fought back in 1985 but he also won the 250cc title in the same year. He is still the only rider who ever achieved such feat.

The Honda NSR500 was to be the legend henceforth as it would become the most dominant 500cc two-stroke bike.

From 1986 to 1993, the battle for the 500cc world championship was a three-corner fight among Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha. But it was Honda and Yamaha who scored eight championships between them, with Wayne Rainey winning three-in-a-row on the YZR500 from 1990 to 1992.

Schwantz vs Rainey – Courtesy of drivetribe.com

Wainey battled through those years with his arch rival Kevin Schwantz who rode the RGV500. Schwantz would finally capture the title in 1993. It was the year Rainey crashed and broke his back, paralyzing him from the chest down.

Kevin Schwantz in 1993

The NSR500 would then keep winning from 1994 to 1998 with Mick Doohan. Doohan suffered greatly at the hands of the NSR500 beast including almost having his right leg amputated. Losing the ability of using his right foot, he began working with a thumb-activated rear brake. Indeed, he crashed and smashed his leg to bits again during practice for the Spanish GP in 1999. He subsequently retired and his crew chief Jeremy Burgess went on to work with Valentino Rossi when he joined Honda in year 2000.

Doohan’s teammate Alex Creville won the 1999 title, with Kenny Roberts Jr. finishing second on the new RGV500. Kenny Roberts Jr. would go on to win the next year.

But that was also the year when Valentino Rossi joined the class. Rossi would win the 2001 and 2002 on the last NSR500. The plucky Italian was surprised by the bike’s power which had reached more than 200 hp by then. A little-known fact was that we won his first 500cc championship on a bike detuned to 168 hp.

2002 was also the first year of the four-stroke 990cc MotoGP bikes. The two-strokes were given an extra year to run alongside the four-strokes. All races were won by the four-strokes while the two-strokes only managed five podiums during the year. The four-stroke bikes also hit higher top speeds all season long.

The four-stroke formula was without criticisms. Despite his dominance, Rossi remarked that there was too much electronic control in the bikes compared to the raw two-strokes. Perhaps he said so due to what he saw as less skilled riders being able to challenge him but that was in the early days. Four-strokes may be more advanced now but they have to be so to contend with 260 to 300 hp engines.

Doohan was right when he said that the era of two-stroke GP racing was at its end after his career-ending crash in 1999. It was after this that Honda began lobbying the FIM and Dorna to switch to four-strokes.

Through the years, the two-stroke 500cc bikes had ended the careers of top riders like Wayne Gardner, Eddie Lawson, Wayne Rainey, Mick Doohan besides those down the field. It’s perhaps by morbid fascination that we wish that these beasts return.

  • Here are 10 countries ranked by the highest proportion of motorcycle-related deaths.

  • The number of fatalities is staggering, running into the millions in total.

  • Most countries here don’t regulate helmet standards and don’t require motorcyclists to wear helmets.

Here’s something sobering. Motorcycle-related deaths in traffic accidents still account for the highest proportion in most – if not all – countries around the world.

But there are a number of countries in which the proportion of motorcycle-related deaths are higher. Included in this list are a number of countries we often ride to and in.

10. Paraguay – 52.2%

This landlocked South American country has 1.8 million registered vehicles, of nearly 560,000 are motorcycles. Although the proportion of motorcycles are only 30 percent, they contribute to 52.2% of total road fatalities. Ironically, the country practices strict enforcement of their highway code and motorcyclists are required to wear helmets.

9. Colombia – 52.5%

There are more motorcycles than cars in Colombia, to the tune of 55%. While helmet law isn’t enforced, 96% of riders and 80% of their passengers wear helmets. Still, the death rate is a high 52.5% percent.

8. Republic of Benin 56.5%

Benin is located in west Africa. Here, there are no regulations for helmet standards, nor are motorcyclists required to wear helmets. There are 195,000 motorcycles compared to 470,000 cars (41%).

7. Malaysia – 60%

According to the 2016 WHO report, Malaysia has 27,613,120 registered vehicles. 46% of those are motorcycle, totaling 12,677,041. There are helmet laws and the highway code is rather extensive. Helmet quality regulations are also tight. Yet we rank high as one among the countries with the highest number of motorcycle-related deaths in the world. We’ll leave out the why. For now.

6. Myanmar – 64.8%

There are 5.4 million motorcycles among 6.4 million registered vehicles in this country. Like some of the countries in this list, there is no regulation on helmet quality despite the law requiring motorcycles to wear helmets.

5. Dominican Republic – 67%

Motorcycles account for nearly 54% (2.1 million) of the total vehicles in this country. Helmet use isn’t mandatory, hence only some 27% of riders and 2% of passengers wear helmets. The Dominican Republic was ranked with the highest road accident fatality rate in the world in 2013.

4. Republic of Togo – 71.6%

The Republic of Togo is the neighbor to the Republic of Benin. It has only 45,341 registered vehicles. The country doesn’t make helmet use mandatory and it reflects on the large number of fatalities.

3. Cambodia – 73.5%

We’re into the top three. Cambodia has a total of 2,714,913 registered motorcycles. Helmet usage isn’t mandatory here. A survey held that 70% of riders wear helmets during the day but that percentage drops to only 43% at night. Additionally, 30% of the passengers put on helmets during the day but it drops to only 13% at night.

2. Indonesia – 73.6%

Indonesia is currently the biggest motorcycle market in the world. More than half of the country’s 250 million population own a vehicle, and more than half of that are motorcycles. Only 71% of riders wear helmets.

1. Thailand – 74.4%

Thailand holds the unfortunate record as having the most dangerous roads in South East Asia, Asia and additionally the most dangerous for motorcyclists. The government has encouraged motorcyclists to wear helmets, besides the passenger. There seems to be no regulations on helmet quality and standards. The percentage is staggering – almost 3 out of every four deaths were motorcycle-related.

India – 98,700 motorcycle-related fatalities

The country with the highest number of motorcycle-related deaths is India. The WHO estimates that there were 299,091 total traffic-related deaths in subcontinent, 33% of those attributed to motorcycles. While the percentage is low, it is the highest in terms of pure numbers, totaling 98,700 fatalities. The total death rate is so high that it tops the African, Americas, Eastern Mediterranean and European regions. China was second with 256,180 total deaths.

  • The primary job of the exhaust system is for burned gasses to exit.

  • But it can be tuned for engine character.

  • Exhaust design influences torque and power production.

If someone asks me what an exhaust system does, the simple answer is to extract exhaust gasses from the combustion process. But truth is, exhaust systems play an immense role in an internal combustion engine’s power production.

No surprise there again, am sure but how is that done? Do we go for the shortest or longest pipe length? The smallest or largest diameter? The “softest” or “loudest” silencer? Silenced or straight flow?

What does the exhaust system do?

The exhaust system is part of a sum which gives and engine its character in terms of throttle response and power curve. An exhaust could be tuned for peak horsepower thereby sacrificing low and midrange torque, or vice versa.

The combustion process produces pressure waves. Positive waves are pressure while negative waves are suction. These waves move at the speed of sound and behaves like sound waves.

A negative wave results when the exhaust wave opens and the hot exhaust gas exits the combustion chamber. When the gas encounters a wider space, it expands. This expand products suction, in effect.

During the exhaust stroke, this suction continues to function, and the negative wave will assist in pulling in fresh charge (fuel-air mixture) into the combustion chamber. This function is called scavenging. Scavenging boosts torque as it prevents exhaust and fresh charge from mixing and pulling in fresh charge early (even when the piston is still rising at the end of the exhaust stroke) for better cylinder filling.

A proportion of these waves can be reflected back as positive waves (partly by the reverse cone on the silencer). The pressure then stuffs some of the escaping fresh charge into the combustion chamber just as the exhaust valve starts to close.

This is why pipe length and diameter are crucial. Changing the length or diameter will affect positive and negative waves, hence the engine’s character. As such, all exhaust pipes are compromises because they can only be tuned to a specific RPM range to work with whatever engine design you may have for example, VVT/VVL. Exhaust pipe tuning was even more crucial for two strokes since they have no poppet valves thereby scavenging at the wrong time means sucking out unburned gasses resulting in power loss.

Enter the powervalve

Yamaha was the first manufacturer to introduce the powervalve in their two-stroke engines. It sits just after the exhaust port and its job was to reflect pressure waves (to push or keep unburned mixture in) corresponding to different RPMs.

What has this got to do with four-stroke engines? Yamaha discovered that the same principle could be applied to four-stroke engines as well. Enter the EXUP (Exhaust Ultimate Powervalve) in the 1990 FZR1000.

The EXUP is fitted in the exhaust downpipe after the collector (the part which combines all four exhaust headers) and catalytic converter. It’s a butterfly valve controlled by a servo and opens and closes according to engine RPM and load.

Soon, all manufacturers followed in Yamaha’s footsteps and installed their own “EXUP” in their four-stroke superbikes – just like how they developed their own powervalves in their two-stroke engines.

Note that replacing an entire exhaust system without regarding the exhaust powervalve will change the engine’s characteristics.

In fact, replacing the exhaust system needs a retuning to optimize the exhaust waves. This was why carburetors needed to be rejetted. As for modern fuel injected bikes, replacing the exhaust will change the bike’s character but will not result in extra torque and horsepower (apart from making more noise). To do so, one needs to fit a power commander and retune the engine on the dyno.

  • Brake caliper lock bolts is one way to secure your brake calipers from theft.

  • Brake caliper and brake master pump thefts are still happening.

  • You can purchase them right here from our e-commerce site.

It goes without saying that brake caliper theft is an epidemic in Malaysia. One way to secure them is by using brake caliper lock bolts.

No brand of front brake caliper is seemingly safe from the lowlifes as they target anything which is not found on kapchais. While any Brembo caliper is their favourite, Nissin, Tokico and even ByBre calipers get the stolen. Some thieves don’t even stop at just the brake calipers as they steal the brake master pumps, too!

We’re not trying to scare you, but the disease is so bad that even the brake calipers of police motorcycles aren’t spared.

We’ve run an article on how to secure your brake calipers and have been inundated with questions on where to purchase the lock bolts since then. Well, fret no more because we have them right here in our e-commerce platform.

The lock bolts

These lock bolts require a special “key” to install and remove them. Sturdy caps are included in the package to hide them away to avoid the heads being tampered with.

Each bolt is made of high-quality high tensile steel to ensure reliable usage and strong platform for the brakes.

The range

Please get in touch with us if your bike isn’t listed below.

MPN01-C Universal brake master pump lock bolts

 

MPC01 brake master pump lock bolts for:

  • BMW R 1200 GS/GS Adventure LC.
  • BMW R nine T.
  • BMW R 1200 RT.
  • BMW R 1200 RS.
  • BMW R 1200 R.
  • BMW R 1250 GS/GS Adventure LC.
  • BMW R 1250 RT.
  • BMW R 1250 RS.
  • BMW R 1250 R

DLN01 brake caliper bolts for:

  • 2010 to 2016 BMW S 1000 RR, S 1000 R, S 1000 XR (front 4 pieces).
  • 2014 to 2016 BMW R 1200 GS LC (front 4 pieces).
  • 2019  BMW R 1250 GS LC (front 4 pieces).
  • 2014 to 2019 BMW R nine T (front 4 pieces).
  • 2015 BMW R 1200 R (front 4 pieces).

DLN02 brake caliper bolts for:

  • 2015 to 2016 BMW F 700 GS, F 800 GS (front 4 pieces).

DLN03 brake caliper bolts for:

  • 2016 BMW K 1600 GT (front 4 pieces).
  • 2012 to 2014 BMW R 1200 GS (front 4 pieces).

DLN04 brake caliper bolts for:

  • Benelli TNT600 (front 4 pieces, rear 1 piece).
  • Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R (front 4 pieces, rear 1 piece).
  • Ducati Monster 795/796 (front 4 pieces, rear 1 piece).
  • Ducati Hypermotard 821 (front 4 pieces, rear 1 piece).
  • Ducati Multistrada 1200 (front 4 pieces, rear 1 piece).
  • MV Agusta 800 (front 4 pieces, rear 1 piece).
  • 2013 to 2015 Aprilia Tuono V4 (front 4 pieces, rear 1 piece).
  • Honda CBR600RR (front).
  • Aprilia Shiver 750 (front).
  • Aprilia Caponord 1200 (front).
  • 2018 to 2019 Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin (front 4 pieces, rear 1 piece).

DLN06 brake caliper bolts for:

  • Honda CB650 (front and rear).
  • Honda CB500F/R (front and rear).
  • Honda NC700 (front and rear).
  • Honda Gold Wing 1800 (front).
  • Kawasaki Z800, Z900 (front and rear).
  • Kawasaki Z750 (front and rear).
  • Kawasaki Versys 1000 (front and rear).
  • 2015 to 2016 Triumph Tiger 800 (front and rear).

DLN10 brake caliper bolts for:

  • Kawasaki Z1000 (front and rear).
  • Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10RR (front). 

DLN11 brake caliper bolts for:

  • Yamaha MT09/Tracer 900 (front and rear).
  • Yamaha YZF-R1 (front and rear).
  • Yamaha YZF-R6 (front and rear).
  • Suzuki V-Strom 1000 (front and rear).
  • Suzuki GSX-R1000 (front).
  • Suzuki GSX-R1300 Hayabusa (front).

DLN12 brake caliper bolts for:

  • Kawasaki 1400GTR (front).
  • 2017 to 2019 Honda X-Adv (front).
  • 2017 to 2019 KTM 1290 Super Duke
  • 2017 to 2019 KTM 1090 Adventure R
  • 2019 Benelli 502C (front). 

DLN13 brake caliper bolts for:

  • 2015 to 2016 Kawasaki Versys 650 (front and rear).
  • 2017 Kawasaki Ninja 650/Z650 (front and rear).
  • Honda CB1300 (front and rear).
  • Naza Blade 250/650 (front and rear).

DLN15 brake caliper bolts for:

  • KTM Duke 125/200/390 (front).

DLN16 brake caliper bolts for:

  • Suzuki GSR750 (front and rear).
  • Suzuki V-Strom 650 (front and rear).

DLN20 brake caliper bolts for:

  • Triumph Bonneville T100 (front and rear).
  • Triumph Street Scrambler 900 (front and rear).
  • Triumph Daytona 1000 (front and rear).

DLN21 brake caliper bolts for:

  • 2009 to 2017 BMW F 800 R (front).
  • 2018 to 2019 BMW R nine T Urban GS (front).
  • 2018 to 2019 BMW R nine T Racer (front).
  • 2015 to 2019 BMW R nine T Scrambler (front).
  • Earplugs are among the essential riding gear.

  • One should always ride with ear protection.

  • High noise levels lead to permanent hearing damage.

Motorcycle-related hearing damage and loss is something which many riders around the world are still not taking seriously. We know this because we hardly see any rider wearing earplugs when they ride, be it when commuting, weekend canyon bombing or even sometimes at the track(!).

Problem is, hearing damage’s progressive and it’s probably too late when one notices it. A constant ringing in the ears is called tinnitus it’s irreversible. Notice how some otai riders talk very loud? Apart from ebullient personality it could well point to hearing damage. Hearing damage also leads to irritability and depression.

What causes it?

The simple answer is noise. Noise levels rise considerably when the speed rises. Noise levels are usually around 85 dB (decibel) when idling in traffic, but that number could hit as high as 115 dB and more when on the move.

The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) published that any sound level above 89 dB can damage one’s hearing. As such, workers should not be exposed to sound levels above 85 dB in an eight-hour workday. Besides that, continuous exposure to 100 dB for 15 minutes will damage hearing.

Let’s compare:
  • City riding between 40 km/h to 80 km/h can produce between 80 to 85 dB.
  • Noise goes up to 100 dB when riding at 100 km/h.
  • It’ll hit 110 dB when riding at 150 km/h.

Of course, the numbers differ according to the type of helmet you wear and your bike’s wind protection, but they are still high no matter what.

What earplugs should I use?

The best we’ve tried are “smart” earplugs that filter out certain frequencies. For example, NoNoise and Pinlock (yes, Pinlock) earplugs maintain the noise level at 85 dB, while you can still hear the traffic, your bike’s engine note and speech. These characteristics are useful for every riding scenario as you can wear them when commuting or during high speed blasts. But these are usually expensive.

There are inexpensive foam earplugs in the market but they tend to filter out too much.

The choice is yours but never, ever ride without earplugs.

  • The 2020 Honda CBR1000RR-R Fireblade shows the makers determination in winning the WorldSBK title.

  • Here are some photos of the bike courtesy of WorldSBK.com.

  • They show a complete departure from the old bike.

Here’s some bike porn courtesy of the 2020 Honda CBR1000RR-R Fireblade WorldSBK bike. Pictures are courtesy of WorldSBK.com.

The CBR1000RR-R signals Honda’s determination in recapturing the WorldSBK Championship title, after winning it only 6 times in 30 years. The previous CBR1000RR may be an easy bike to ride but it’s outgunned on the tracks.

Here we go.

Frontal shape

The first picture here is Alvaro Bautista’s bike. The Spanish rider will ride the bike after severing ties with Ducati. His teammate is Leon Haslam who was dropped by the Kawasaki works team. Both riders are astride the factory CBR1000RR-RW while Takumi Takahasi rides the semi-factory CBR1000RR-R.

From this angle, you could see how the bodywork was formed to channel air to give it a small frontal area. The air intake now resides front and centre in the top fairing for a straight Ram Air shot into the airbox.

Aerodynamics

WorldSBK rules allow aerobodies as long as 1) They are present on the road bike; and 2) They are not active aerodynamics (non-movable). Notice how the “lip” just in front of the intake blends into the lower bodywork.

Honda didn’t publish data on how much downforce the spoilers will provide.

Tailsection

The tailsection of the bike is also made from carbon fibre. You can see here that it follows the shape of the item on the roadgoing 2020 Honda CBR1000RR-R Fireblade as stipulated by WorldSBK rules. Anyway, the tail terminates at a sharp point to reduce wake (turbulence) behind the bike. A large wake (like behind a boat or ship) means the bike isn’t aerodynamically efficient and causes drag. The airflow must not only move efficiently around the bike and rider but needs to be so when it leaves the bike, too.

Forks, brakes and wheels

Check out the spindly brake caliper mounts on the fork legs – these are obviously machined from billet. The calipers are Brembo GP4-RX, also CNC-milled. The wheel is an OZ Racing magnesium item.

Besides those, notice the “radiator.” All these racebikes have extended radiators plus an oil cooler to deal with the extra heat. The top radiator (hidden by the fairing) is the same as the road bikes, the centre portion is the oil cooler, while the bottommost is the extra radiator.

Exhaust system

Here’s a better view of the titanium exhaust system. Notice that the header for cylinders 1 (at the far side) and 4 (closest to us) is bent further in as opposed to the other Numbers 2 and 3 in the interest of equal pipe length leading to the collector.

Also note the oxygen sensors on all headers. The sensors detect the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. Too little oxygen means the engine is burning rich (too much fuel, too little air); too much oxygen means the engine is burning lean (too much air, too little fuel). Data from the sensors will be referred to the engine’s mapping in the ECU, which will then determine the right amount of fuel and injection timing. The system works in tandem with the power settings chosen by the rider (more power, fuel conservation, etc.).

Rear shock

Look at the rear shock, especially those sensors and cables. Electronic suspension isn’t allowed in WorldSBK (and MotoGP) so those sensors and cables monitor the shock’s performance in terms of its movements and damping characteristics. The data can then be used for setting up the bike together with the rider’s input.

Upper triple clamp

There’s almost nothing to look at here but this picture does tell a big story. Notice how thin is that top triple clamp and that’s just the edge! No, it’s not so for saving weight. Honda had recently done this to the 2019 RC213 MotoGP bike too. A thinner triple clamps allows more “play” and provides better front-end feedback to the rider.

The forks are also moved up the triple clamps since Jerez is a circuit which has plenty of corners that need late turn-ins, thus putting more emphasis on front tyre grip. Moving the forks up shifts more weight to the front tyre.

Conclusion

When this went to print, Leon Haslam put the 2020 CBR1000RR-R Fireblade in the top spot  during the pre-season tests at Jerez. The session was held on a wet track and the rain is an equalizer, so we shall see if the bike continues to perform well.

Source: WorldSBK.com

  • We often see the terms SOHC or DOHC in motorcycle spec sheets.

  • What do they mean?

  • And how do they influence engine performance?

The terms SOHC and DOHC are usually seen on spec sheets. Some car owners even stick large “DOHC” vinyl on their vehicles.

What’s a camshaft?

But before we go further, let’s understand the function of a camshaft.

Camshafts are cylindrical shafts that carry oblong-shaped cam lobes in four-stroke engines. The lobes push on the poppet valves to open them in time with the engine’s intake and exhaust strokes. The valves are then closed by the valve springs when the taller cam lobes turn away. (NOTE: Desmodromic valve actuation don’t have return springs on the valves.)

Camshaft assembly – Credit depositphotos.com

The camshaft’s rotation is driven off the engine’s crankshaft via a chain, belt or gears. Road motorcycle engines usually employ the chain which is kept inside the engine block as it’s lubricated by the engine oil and quiet. Certain Ducati models still employ the belt cam drive (also called timing belt like in cars). Gear driven cams are usually used in racing motorcycles for their exactness in executing their timing, reliability in a high stress environment and being too loud for road bikes.

What are SOHC and DOHC?

SOHC stands for “single overhead camshaft” while DOHC represents “double overhead camshaft.”

As the names suggest, an SOHC engine is served by a single camshaft which carries the intake and exhaust cam lobes. A DOHC engine, on the other hand, has one camshaft dedicated to intake and one for exhaust.

“Overhead” here means that the camshaft is located on top of the valves and certainly on top of the engine block.

Pros and Cons of SOHC

Since one camshaft carries all the lobes for intake and exhaust. However, do remember that the combustion chamber is round thus valve placement will be compromised. The best valve configuration keeps the valves closer together, but having four valves per cylinder with from one camshaft would mean spacing any two valves much further apart.

As such, an SOHC engine usually carries a maximum of three valves per cylinder (although there are four-valves-per-cylinder SOHC engines), but is usually limited to two valves.

An SOHC setup is much simpler and lighter as there are fewer parts. However, spark plug placement is compromised as the space directly on top of the combustion chamber has already been taken up by the valves. Therefore, the spark plug needs to be placed at the side of the combustion chamber. This puts a limit on high RPMs as the flame front could only reach so far before the piston moves down and the expanding gas losses its pressure. At higher RPMs, the piston is moving so fast that some of the air-fuel mixture isn’t fully burned and kicked out. Consequently, an SOHC engine could not produce higher horsepower due to lower engine revs.

As such, an SOHC engine is usually tuned for low-RPM and midrange torque.

Pros and Cons of DOHC

The intake and exhaust camshafts are placed further apart. All the valves could be kept closer together as the cam lobes can be placed closer to each other. It also means that the camshafts can be made shorter for a more compact engine block.

Since the two camshafts are spaced further apart, the spark plug can be placed between them and directly in the centre of the combustion chamber. As opposed to placing it at the side, a centrally located plug has the better chance of burning most if not all of the air-fuel mixture.

Consequently, DOHC engines can be revved higher and produce more horsepower in the process.

The two camshafts also give engineers more flexibility in spacing them to angle the valves for optimum combustion chamber shape, besides intake- and exhaust-tract designs.

But perhaps more importantly these days are variable valve timing (VVT) and variable valve lift (VVL) technologies. Utilizing them is easier, therefore virtually exclusive, to DOHC valvetrains (apart from SOHC VTEC).

The cons of a DOHC engine include higher maintenance as there are more parts involved.

Last note: OHV

There are also OHV (overhead valve) engines where the valves are on top of the combustion chamber, but the cams reside in the crankcase. The cam lobes push on thin cylindrical shafts called pushrods which in turn push on a rocker arms that actuate the valves.

This type of setup is usually used on low-revving engines due to the inertia of many moving parts. Also, it’s difficult to have more than one valve each for intake and exhaust, unless more cams are installed on the other side of the engine.

Therefore, the OHV setup usually resides in cruisers such as Harley-Davidsons and Indian Motorcycles.

  • DO NOT take the battery for granted.

  • The only sure and safe way is to use a smart charger.

  • We’ve also put together a collection of OptiMate smart chargers you can consider.

We’ve previously published articles on how a motorcycle battery work and why they die (eventually). Let’s get down to battery maintenance in this instalment, plus a collection of OptiMate smart chargers.

Read: Motorcycle Battery: How it Works

Read: Motorcycle Battery: Why Does it Die?

Honestly, my biggest worry is always about a dead battery whenever I ride. It’s a big hassle and even downright scary when you’re stranded in the middle of somewhere in the middle of the night. Next to a cemetery.

First and foremost, check the battery’s terminals. Make sure that the connectors don’t move about and that there are no deposits on them. Greenish copper sulfate may build up on the positive terminal, while a whitish sulfate can accumulate on the negative terminal (usually due to undercharging).

If there are, disconnect the battery – remove the negative connector first, followed by the positive side – and take it out of the bike. Then, use a toothbrush and scrub off the corroded material with some lemon juice or baking soda. Wash off with water and let dry.

CHARGING

Wish I could tell you otherwise but there’s no other better way to maintain your battery other than to use a smart charger. As we’ve mentioned before, the motorcycle’s charging system may not necessarily be the perfect charging system. Even if it is, you still need to maintain the battery at its optimum voltage once you stop the bike.

 

Charging a battery takes several steps with different voltages and amps, depending on its age and condition. This is where a smart charger does it all.

No, we’re not trying to hawk random stuff.

ENTER OPTIMATE

Among the chargers that I trust the most are OptiMate, made by the Belgian company TecMate. TecMate specializes only in battery chargers for all applications including powersports, cars, boats, commercial vehicles for over 20 years.

We know that there are many other chargers in the market, and many are amazingly cheap. But you need to ask yourself about why it’s so. Touch wood, using the wrong charger may not damage your bike’s battery or electrical systems but it may also not do any real good for the battery.

I’ve personally used a cheap charger which just kept pumping in the juice (overcharging) although the battery’s reached its optimum voltage (12.4 V). In the end, my battery warped out of shape. Am thankful that it didn’t explode!

An OptiMate, on the other hand, stops charging when the battery’s fully charged and then starts again as the volts start to drop. Just plug it in and leave it on.

The higher-end OptiMate 3, 4, 6, 7 and 8 have desulfation features. They do this by introducing electrical pulses to break the sulfur coating the cells and turn the electrolyte back to being acidic, rather than being more water. From there, these chargers will take further steps to charge and maintain the battery in the proper way. Heck, they even know what type of battery you’re using!

Included in each kit are two types of cables: The standard terminal clips and SAE-81 connector. The latter attaches permanently to the battery terminals, leaving the connector on the bike, and you don’t have to remove the seat or bodywork everytime you charge the battery. It also has a 15A fuse to protect against power surges.

Granted, a battery will die later in its life but at least the OptiMate chargers will test the condition of the battery and inform you. If the condition LED doesn’t turn green at all, it means it’s time for a new battery.

At least you don’t get stranded at night next to a cemetery…

NOTE

  • DO NOT charge a LiFePO4 (lithium) battery with a standard lead-acid charger. The OptiMate 4S Lithium is designed specifically for lithium batteries.
  • DO NOT use a standard charger if your bike uses CAN-BUS electrical and electronics wiring looms and connectors. Please use the OptiMate 4 CAN-BUS for that purpose.

WHERE TO BUY

You can take a look and buy an OptiMate smart charger in our BikesRepublic.com e-commerce site.

Please click >>> HERE <<< to visit the page.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OptiMate 2.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OptiMate 3 Dual Bank.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OptiMate 4 CAN-BUS.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OptiMate 4S Lithium.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OptiMate 6 Ampmatic.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OptiMate 7 Select.

Also available are USB chargers that plug into the 12 mm DIN power socket on certain bikes.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OptiMate O-105 Dual Output USB charger with 90-degree elbow.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OptiMate O-115 Dual Output USB charger.

OptiMate also offers a whole range of professional grade cables. You can always use them for your other motorcycles (for example).

A dyno chart – a graph which shows the engine’s torque and power curves – gives us an idea of how the bike performs when we open the throttle.

But how do we interpret those two lines? Do we only look at the peaks? Or just the peak horsepower?

Let’s use the chart below as an example.

The X-axis (the horizontal line below) represents engine RPM, the left Y-axis shows the engine’s horsepower, and the Y-axis on the right represents the engine’s torque.

2018 Ducati Panigale V4 S dyno chart – Credit motorcycle.com. The little dips in the curves denote gearchange

The curved line which climbs the highest is usually the horsepower, while the line below is usually the torque. Why “usually”? Because high torque engines like those big V-twins on Harley-Davidsons, Indians and other cruisers typically produce more torque than horsepower.

In any case, the torque curve is usually flatter than the horsepower curve as the latter requires the engine to be spun up and increases in a steeper curve.

Read: Torque versus Horsepower: What’s the Difference

So far so good?

Okay then, what do we look for? Or more specifically, how do we “read” an engine’s character?

Referring to the graph above, the torque curve looks like a plateau and is considered “flat.” There’s already 86 Nm of torque available at 4,750 RPM, while the peak of about 118 Nm is delivered at 11,250 RPM. Thus, the dyno shows that the engine is already producing 73% of its maximum torque at 4,750 RPM.

We can therefore deduce that this engine will give the impression of power everywhere in the engine range. In the real world, opening the throttle at any time will punch the bike forward rather than needing to be revved like crazy. An engine which allows for hard acceleration anywhere in its rev range is called “torquey” (although most people will wrongly say “powerful”). For the rider, he doesn’t have to keep shifting gears to get going.

As for the horsepower curve, you can see that’s linear in its progression and that makes for easier riding because the bike doesn’t bog and blast forward suddenly as if hit with a NOS injection.

Another thing to note is how many RPMs separate peak torque and peak horsepower. This Desmosedici Stradale V-four’s torque peaks at 11,250 RPM while horsepower does so at close to 13,250 RPM. That gives us 2,000 RPM of separation between the two. This is good as while the torque tapers off, the engine continues to produce power. This is what we call a wide powerband.

However, if the two peaks are close together like in a two-stroke (as little as 500 RPM separation), the powerband is considered “peaky” or “thin.”You need to rev the engine to high RPMs and maintain that high RPM for acceleration. Dropping out of that certain RPM range means you’re stuck with no meaningful acceleration unless you work that left foot like a Riverdance performer.

Note here that four-stroke racing engines tuned for outright power can be peaky. It’s not much of a problem at the racetrack but it’s irritating when such an engine character is present on a road bike.

This is why cruiser riders swear by their engine’s torque as the bike accelerates anytime in any gear, as well as being relaxed (turning at low RPM) when er… cruising down the highway. However, the engine begins to run out of breath as it reaches peak torque, since there’s not enough horsepower to produce higher speeds.

Harley-Davidson Fat Bob dyno chart – Credit cycleworld.com

Lastly, there’s another thing to note. Notice that the dyno’d torque and horsepower figures are lower than claimed by the manufacturer. That’s because manufacturers use bench dynos that are fitted directed to the engine’s output shaft thereby reading the crankshaft torque and horsepower. Dyno-ing a bike through its rear wheel results in approximately 15% power loss through the transmission, final drive and tyre. So, don’t panic if you see lower figures if you dyno your bike.

  • Need to mount your smartphone or devices to your bike?

  • Check out these products by OPTI-LINE.

  • They are of high quality without costing a bomb.

Mounting your smartphone or a GPS device on the bike isn’t a big thing these days. However, it’s goes without saying that we need to mount our all-important phone on sturdy and secure mounts, such as these from OPTI-LINE.

Here are the reasons why.

1. Sturdy mounting

Let’s start with the actual mounts – the part which is attached to the bike. There are a number of solutions here but let’s take the usual handlebar mount.

The clamp at the base is split in two, with the bottom part shaped liked an “U.” The upper part slots into the “U” to clamp onto the handlebar, while the shoulders carry the Allen bolts. Together, they form a solid base to carry phone mountings and case.

Furthermore, Allen bolts are not easy for thieves to loosen and steal the mount.

2. OPTI-LINE DUO-LOCK System

The innovative DUO-LOCK system allows you to attach and detach your OPTI-LINE phone mount quickly. Easy attachment and detachment mean you don’t have waste time in fumbling around. Easy detachment also allows you to remove the mount and store it somewhere safe when you park your bike.

Once the mount is locked on, it’s secure and won’t be blown off the bike.

3. Safety cable included for case and mount

OPTI-LINE phone case and mount include safety cables.

A clip hooks up to the case or phone mount, while the other end loops around the handlebar. That way, it provides extra security to keep the case or mount from falling off the bike altogether.

4. Many choices

OPTI-LINE offers many mounting choices and solutions. Apart from the usual handlebar mount, there are also the Stick Swivel which glues on directly to any surface; Opti Arm which mounts the base of the mirror; Screw Mount which utilizes to the handlebar clamp; Mirror mount with clamps to the mirror stalk.

There is also the handlebar-mounted USB charger which has a waterproof cover. It’s especially useful for keeping your device charged.

There are also high-quality cables for your devices including micro USB, Apple 8-pin and USB Type-C types.

5. Good value for money

OPTI-LINE products are built to the highest quality in the interest of keeping your smartphone or device in place. But perhaps best of all is the price which are surprisingly affordable.

We have seen lower quality products that cost almost as much as OPTI-LINE products in the market, so why don’t you invest a little more for something that’s of much higher quality and it proven to work?

We have.

Where to buy

OPTI-LINE products are listed in our BikesRepublic.com e-commerce site.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti-Case Universal Smartphone Case.

Opti-Case Universal Smartphone Case

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti-Case Air Flow Universal Smartphone Holder.

OPTI-LINE Opti-Case Air Flow Universal Phone Holder

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Action Cam Fixing Base.

OPTI-LINE Opti Action Cam Fixing Base

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Stick Swivel Adhesive Mount.

OPTI-LINE Opti Stick swivel adhesive mount

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Arm mount with flexible arm.

OPTI-LINE Opti Arm smartphone case mount with flexible arm

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Handle Bar Mount.

OPTI-LINE Opti Handle Handlebar Mount

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Screw Mount with M8 Screw.

OPTI-LINE Opti Screw mount

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Mirror Smartphone Case Mount.

OPTI-LINE Opti Mirror smartphone case mount

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OPTI-LINE Handle Bar Mounted USB Fast Charger.

OPTI-LINE Handlebar mounted USB charging hub

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OPTI-LINE Apple 8-pin spring cable.

OPTI-LINE Apple 8-pin Spring Cable

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OPTI-LINE Micro USB spring cable.

OPTI-LINE Micro USB Spring Cable

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OPTI-LINE USB Type-C spring cable.

OPTI-LINE USB Type-C Spring Cable

Please click >>> HERE <<< to visit the BikesRepublic.com e-commerce site.

  • We always see rake and trail figures in spec sheets.

  • Rake and trail play a large role in a motorcycle’s handling.

  • Hence the spec sheet figures provide an insight to how the motorcycle will handle.

A motorcycle spec sheet actually contains plenty of information regarding a bike – if you don’t only look at the horsepower figure. Other important aspects include the bike’s steering dimensions, namely rake (also called castor angle) and trail.

Rake and trail figures provide a general insight into a bike’s handling characteristics. We say “general” here because how a bike steers is a combination of rake, trail, chassis balance, centre of gravity, mass centralization, wheelbase and weight. However, the rake and trail figures play the biggest role in terms of steering, handling and stability as that’s where the rider inputs his steering forces.

Credit Moto1.com

What is rake?

Rake refers the angle of the forks in relation to the vertical. First, draw a line along the centerline of the fork to intersect the horizontal ground. Then, draw another line vertically from the top of the fork to intersect the horizontal ground. The angle between these two lines is the rake (also known as steering angle or castor angle).

What is trail?

Let’s leave the line through the fork’s centerline in place. Now let’s draw a line from the steering head’s axis to intersect the horizontal ground. You will find a “gap” between these two lines – this is the trail, measured in milimetres or inches.

How do rake and trail influence handling?

A “steep” steering angle between 22 to 25 degrees gives the bike a quick-steering characteristic. A slight push on the handlebar will have the bike leaning over. A “relaxed” steering angle from 26 degrees and up will result in slower turning, on the other hand.

Similarly, a smaller trail figure results in a quick turning motorcycle and vice versa.

But this is where it gets interesting.

A steep steering angle combined with a small trail will have the bike steering quickly, but it’ll also become “skittish.” In other words, the bike will be nervous in a straight line and under hard braking. A relaxed steering angle together with a long trail results in a longer wheelbase and consequently a more stable motorcycle in a straight line but turns like a battleship (i.e. choppers).

So, manufacturers sometimes combine a steep rake angle with a slightly larger trail. It takes away some quick steering but provides more stability under hard acceleration and braking. This is especially true for sportbikes.

Triple clamp offset – Credit gotagteam.com

Can I change these characteristics?

Yes, you can by replacing the fork triple clamps.

Triple clamps with bigger offsets between the forks’ centerline and steering head result in bigger trail.

With this in mind, you can use a bottom triple clamp with more offset to enlarge the rake angle. Custom builders usually do this to choppers to “rake out” the forks (if they retain the bike’s stock frame).

Check out the bottom triple clamp – Credit wallz123.blogspot.com

Other considerations

As we mentioned earlier, a bike’s handling characteristics is also dependent on a number of other aspects. One quick way to quicken your bike’s steering is by adding more preload to the rear shock to lift the rear. But please do so only within the suspension’s sag range. Do not add so much preload that it overwhelms the shock’s damping.

Another way is to bring the forks up through the triple clamps, effectively lowering the front.

We’ll look at the other aspects in detail next time.

  • New tyres need to be broken in.

  • Pushing on new tyres can be dangerous.

  • The break-in process isn’t difficult but calls for some restraint.

Upon the completion of replacing my tyres, J.S. (Head Mechanic at Sunny Cycle) warned me, “Don’t push on the new tyres yet. One guy did that right after leaving the shop and almost high-sided.”

His words couldn’t be truer. New tyres need to be broken in before you can push hard on them.

Why are New Tyres Slippery?

Notice the shiny surface on a new tyre? No, that’s not “wax,” contrary to popular belief. Instead it’s a release agent which tyre manufacturers use to coat the mold in order for the tyre to be removed easily.

Certain makers don’t use release agents but utilize different compound mixes in the curing process for the soft rubber to flow easier into in the mold. This type of compound makes it easier for the rubber to form the intricate patterns on the tread and markings. But it also leaves a shiny surface.

How to Break them in Then?

Our job is to rid the tyres of that shiny surface.

Besides that, there are many different chemicals and components (up to 150!) that make up a tyre. While it may seem that they are homogenously, they actually require repeated heating and cooling process (heat cycles) to do so. This could only be done by introducing forces and stresses during riding.

No, weaving around like MotoGP riders doesn’t work. Keep in mind that their tyres are already warmed up at least an hour before they take to the track.

Manufacturers actually suggest between 150 to 300 kilometres of riding to break in your new tyres. As for the sides, introduce lean angle progressively rather charge into corners for max lean.

Also, mind your acceleration and braking. Stay progressive and smooth for those few hundred kilometres.

Bear in mind that tyres have “memory.” No, we don’t mean that they’ve got built-in RAM chips. Instead, how your tyres behave later in their lifespan depends on how you broke them in. If you tend to be extra aggressive, the extra heat and stresses will “cook” the compound. You will probably end up with a comparatively harder compound by their mid-life. However, take it too easy and they will be slippery even after the 200 – 300 km break-in period.

A good indicator is if the new tyres turn blue after a day’s ride, it means you’ve pushed too hard. If they’re still too shiny and almost like new for too long, it means you’re too conservative.

There’s a middle ground in there which you can find over time.

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