Bikesrepublic

Wahid Ooi

A dyno chart – a graph which shows the engine’s torque and power curves – gives us an idea of how the bike performs when we open the throttle.

But how do we interpret those two lines? Do we only look at the peaks? Or just the peak horsepower?

Let’s use the chart below as an example.

The X-axis (the horizontal line below) represents engine RPM, the left Y-axis shows the engine’s horsepower, and the Y-axis on the right represents the engine’s torque.

2018 Ducati Panigale V4 S dyno chart – Credit motorcycle.com. The little dips in the curves denote gearchange

The curved line which climbs the highest is usually the horsepower, while the line below is usually the torque. Why “usually”? Because high torque engines like those big V-twins on Harley-Davidsons, Indians and other cruisers typically produce more torque than horsepower.

In any case, the torque curve is usually flatter than the horsepower curve as the latter requires the engine to be spun up and increases in a steeper curve.

Read: Torque versus Horsepower: What’s the Difference

So far so good?

Okay then, what do we look for? Or more specifically, how do we “read” an engine’s character?

Referring to the graph above, the torque curve looks like a plateau and is considered “flat.” There’s already 86 Nm of torque available at 4,750 RPM, while the peak of about 118 Nm is delivered at 11,250 RPM. Thus, the dyno shows that the engine is already producing 73% of its maximum torque at 4,750 RPM.

We can therefore deduce that this engine will give the impression of power everywhere in the engine range. In the real world, opening the throttle at any time will punch the bike forward rather than needing to be revved like crazy. An engine which allows for hard acceleration anywhere in its rev range is called “torquey” (although most people will wrongly say “powerful”). For the rider, he doesn’t have to keep shifting gears to get going.

As for the horsepower curve, you can see that’s linear in its progression and that makes for easier riding because the bike doesn’t bog and blast forward suddenly as if hit with a NOS injection.

Another thing to note is how many RPMs separate peak torque and peak horsepower. This Desmosedici Stradale V-four’s torque peaks at 11,250 RPM while horsepower does so at close to 13,250 RPM. That gives us 2,000 RPM of separation between the two. This is good as while the torque tapers off, the engine continues to produce power. This is what we call a wide powerband.

However, if the two peaks are close together like in a two-stroke (as little as 500 RPM separation), the powerband is considered “peaky” or “thin.”You need to rev the engine to high RPMs and maintain that high RPM for acceleration. Dropping out of that certain RPM range means you’re stuck with no meaningful acceleration unless you work that left foot like a Riverdance performer.

Note here that four-stroke racing engines tuned for outright power can be peaky. It’s not much of a problem at the racetrack but it’s irritating when such an engine character is present on a road bike.

This is why cruiser riders swear by their engine’s torque as the bike accelerates anytime in any gear, as well as being relaxed (turning at low RPM) when er… cruising down the highway. However, the engine begins to run out of breath as it reaches peak torque, since there’s not enough horsepower to produce higher speeds.

Harley-Davidson Fat Bob dyno chart – Credit cycleworld.com

Lastly, there’s another thing to note. Notice that the dyno’d torque and horsepower figures are lower than claimed by the manufacturer. That’s because manufacturers use bench dynos that are fitted directed to the engine’s output shaft thereby reading the crankshaft torque and horsepower. Dyno-ing a bike through its rear wheel results in approximately 15% power loss through the transmission, final drive and tyre. So, don’t panic if you see lower figures if you dyno your bike.

  • Need to mount your smartphone or devices to your bike?

  • Check out these products by OPTI-LINE.

  • They are of high quality without costing a bomb.

Mounting your smartphone or a GPS device on the bike isn’t a big thing these days. However, it’s goes without saying that we need to mount our all-important phone on sturdy and secure mounts, such as these from OPTI-LINE.

Here are the reasons why.

1. Sturdy mounting

Let’s start with the actual mounts – the part which is attached to the bike. There are a number of solutions here but let’s take the usual handlebar mount.

The clamp at the base is split in two, with the bottom part shaped liked an “U.” The upper part slots into the “U” to clamp onto the handlebar, while the shoulders carry the Allen bolts. Together, they form a solid base to carry phone mountings and case.

Furthermore, Allen bolts are not easy for thieves to loosen and steal the mount.

2. OPTI-LINE DUO-LOCK System

The innovative DUO-LOCK system allows you to attach and detach your OPTI-LINE phone mount quickly. Easy attachment and detachment mean you don’t have waste time in fumbling around. Easy detachment also allows you to remove the mount and store it somewhere safe when you park your bike.

Once the mount is locked on, it’s secure and won’t be blown off the bike.

3. Safety cable included for case and mount

OPTI-LINE phone case and mount include safety cables.

A clip hooks up to the case or phone mount, while the other end loops around the handlebar. That way, it provides extra security to keep the case or mount from falling off the bike altogether.

4. Many choices

OPTI-LINE offers many mounting choices and solutions. Apart from the usual handlebar mount, there are also the Stick Swivel which glues on directly to any surface; Opti Arm which mounts the base of the mirror; Screw Mount which utilizes to the handlebar clamp; Mirror mount with clamps to the mirror stalk.

There is also the handlebar-mounted USB charger which has a waterproof cover. It’s especially useful for keeping your device charged.

There are also high-quality cables for your devices including micro USB, Apple 8-pin and USB Type-C types.

5. Good value for money

OPTI-LINE products are built to the highest quality in the interest of keeping your smartphone or device in place. But perhaps best of all is the price which are surprisingly affordable.

We have seen lower quality products that cost almost as much as OPTI-LINE products in the market, so why don’t you invest a little more for something that’s of much higher quality and it proven to work?

We have.

Where to buy

OPTI-LINE products are listed in our BikesRepublic.com e-commerce site.

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti-Case Universal Smartphone Case.

Opti-Case Universal Smartphone Case

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti-Case Air Flow Universal Smartphone Holder.

OPTI-LINE Opti-Case Air Flow Universal Phone Holder

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OPTI-LINE Opti Action Cam Fixing Base

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Stick Swivel Adhesive Mount.

OPTI-LINE Opti Stick swivel adhesive mount

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Arm mount with flexible arm.

OPTI-LINE Opti Arm smartphone case mount with flexible arm

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Handle Bar Mount.

OPTI-LINE Opti Handle Handlebar Mount

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Screw Mount with M8 Screw.

OPTI-LINE Opti Screw mount

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the Opti Mirror Smartphone Case Mount.

OPTI-LINE Opti Mirror smartphone case mount

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OPTI-LINE Handle Bar Mounted USB Fast Charger.

OPTI-LINE Handlebar mounted USB charging hub

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OPTI-LINE Apple 8-pin spring cable.

OPTI-LINE Apple 8-pin Spring Cable

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OPTI-LINE Micro USB Spring Cable

Please click >>> HERE <<< for the OPTI-LINE USB Type-C spring cable.

OPTI-LINE USB Type-C Spring Cable

Please click >>> HERE <<< to visit the BikesRepublic.com e-commerce site.

  • We always see rake and trail figures in spec sheets.

  • Rake and trail play a large role in a motorcycle’s handling.

  • Hence the spec sheet figures provide an insight to how the motorcycle will handle.

A motorcycle spec sheet actually contains plenty of information regarding a bike – if you don’t only look at the horsepower figure. Other important aspects include the bike’s steering dimensions, namely rake (also called castor angle) and trail.

Rake and trail figures provide a general insight into a bike’s handling characteristics. We say “general” here because how a bike steers is a combination of rake, trail, chassis balance, centre of gravity, mass centralization, wheelbase and weight. However, the rake and trail figures play the biggest role in terms of steering, handling and stability as that’s where the rider inputs his steering forces.

Credit Moto1.com

What is rake?

Rake refers the angle of the forks in relation to the vertical. First, draw a line along the centerline of the fork to intersect the horizontal ground. Then, draw another line vertically from the top of the fork to intersect the horizontal ground. The angle between these two lines is the rake (also known as steering angle or castor angle).

What is trail?

Let’s leave the line through the fork’s centerline in place. Now let’s draw a line from the steering head’s axis to intersect the horizontal ground. You will find a “gap” between these two lines – this is the trail, measured in milimetres or inches.

How do rake and trail influence handling?

A “steep” steering angle between 22 to 25 degrees gives the bike a quick-steering characteristic. A slight push on the handlebar will have the bike leaning over. A “relaxed” steering angle from 26 degrees and up will result in slower turning, on the other hand.

Similarly, a smaller trail figure results in a quick turning motorcycle and vice versa.

But this is where it gets interesting.

A steep steering angle combined with a small trail will have the bike steering quickly, but it’ll also become “skittish.” In other words, the bike will be nervous in a straight line and under hard braking. A relaxed steering angle together with a long trail results in a longer wheelbase and consequently a more stable motorcycle in a straight line but turns like a battleship (i.e. choppers).

So, manufacturers sometimes combine a steep rake angle with a slightly larger trail. It takes away some quick steering but provides more stability under hard acceleration and braking. This is especially true for sportbikes.

Triple clamp offset – Credit gotagteam.com

Can I change these characteristics?

Yes, you can by replacing the fork triple clamps.

Triple clamps with bigger offsets between the forks’ centerline and steering head result in bigger trail.

With this in mind, you can use a bottom triple clamp with more offset to enlarge the rake angle. Custom builders usually do this to choppers to “rake out” the forks (if they retain the bike’s stock frame).

Check out the bottom triple clamp – Credit wallz123.blogspot.com

Other considerations

As we mentioned earlier, a bike’s handling characteristics is also dependent on a number of other aspects. One quick way to quicken your bike’s steering is by adding more preload to the rear shock to lift the rear. But please do so only within the suspension’s sag range. Do not add so much preload that it overwhelms the shock’s damping.

Another way is to bring the forks up through the triple clamps, effectively lowering the front.

We’ll look at the other aspects in detail next time.

  • New tyres need to be broken in.

  • Pushing on new tyres can be dangerous.

  • The break-in process isn’t difficult but calls for some restraint.

Upon the completion of replacing my tyres, J.S. (Head Mechanic at Sunny Cycle) warned me, “Don’t push on the new tyres yet. One guy did that right after leaving the shop and almost high-sided.”

His words couldn’t be truer. New tyres need to be broken in before you can push hard on them.

Why are New Tyres Slippery?

Notice the shiny surface on a new tyre? No, that’s not “wax,” contrary to popular belief. Instead it’s a release agent which tyre manufacturers use to coat the mold in order for the tyre to be removed easily.

Certain makers don’t use release agents but utilize different compound mixes in the curing process for the soft rubber to flow easier into in the mold. This type of compound makes it easier for the rubber to form the intricate patterns on the tread and markings. But it also leaves a shiny surface.

How to Break them in Then?

Our job is to rid the tyres of that shiny surface.

Besides that, there are many different chemicals and components (up to 150!) that make up a tyre. While it may seem that they are homogenously, they actually require repeated heating and cooling process (heat cycles) to do so. This could only be done by introducing forces and stresses during riding.

No, weaving around like MotoGP riders doesn’t work. Keep in mind that their tyres are already warmed up at least an hour before they take to the track.

Manufacturers actually suggest between 150 to 300 kilometres of riding to break in your new tyres. As for the sides, introduce lean angle progressively rather charge into corners for max lean.

Also, mind your acceleration and braking. Stay progressive and smooth for those few hundred kilometres.

Bear in mind that tyres have “memory.” No, we don’t mean that they’ve got built-in RAM chips. Instead, how your tyres behave later in their lifespan depends on how you broke them in. If you tend to be extra aggressive, the extra heat and stresses will “cook” the compound. You will probably end up with a comparatively harder compound by their mid-life. However, take it too easy and they will be slippery even after the 200 – 300 km break-in period.

A good indicator is if the new tyres turn blue after a day’s ride, it means you’ve pushed too hard. If they’re still too shiny and almost like new for too long, it means you’re too conservative.

There’s a middle ground in there which you can find over time.

  • Carrying out motorcycle maintenance by yourself is fun.

  • There are many things you could learn.

  • It gives you a sense of achievement and gratification.

Owning a motorcycle is much simpler these days since they are so reliable and require so little in the way of TLC (tender loving care) to keep ‘em rolling. As such, there are certain maintenance tasks that you can DIY (do it yourself).

NOTE: Before we begin, please let us explain that certain DIY maintenance tasks should only be carried out by the manufacturer’s official workshops, especially during the warranty period. For example, something as “mundane” as an oil change must be recorded in the service booklet to entitle for warranty. Do check your owner’s manual and call/email your motorcycle dealer or manufacturer to be 100% sure.

But why carry out these tasks by ourselves, you ask. Well, completing even a simple task as maintaining the drivechain gives a feeling of accomplishment and gratification. You’d also discover more about your bike in the process – and there’s so much to learn! Plus, you’d rise above being just a casual biker to one who is knowledgeable. Seriously, how many bikers actually get down on all fours to inspect their bikes these days?

Okay, let’s start the list.

1. Washing the bike

Photo credit autoevolution.com

This is just way too obvious but cleaning your bike yourself is a good practice and habit. That’s because you’d discover potential problems firsthand. It could just be imagination but everyone I spoke to feels that their bike run smoother after a thorough wash. It could well be true because some of the dirt wedged between moving parts such as the brake pads and disc are washed away.

Our tip is to use reputable cleaners – water soluble and biodegradable ones are the best – rather than corrosive stuff like dish washer liquid and detergent. If you use car shampoo, go for those that are not “wash and wax.” The wax leaves whitish residue on the matt black plastic parts, dulling them out quickly.

You may also consider some automotive waxes. Something light will be good, given the usually thin clearcoat on motorcycle paintwork. Do not apply wax on the matt plastic parts or you’ll be sorry.

As for the plastic parts, consider coating them with UV protector.

2. Oil change

An oil change is one of the obvious places to start. There are a number of things you should always observe:

  • Have the correct oil filter spanner or removal tool.
  • Make sure you straighten the bike to drain the last bits of the old oil.
  • Do not overfill (too much is actually bad for the engine!).
  • Do not overtighten the filter.
  • Dispose of the old oil properly i.e. send it to a workshop rather than pouring it down the drain.

3. Chain adjustment

Always maintain your drive chain properly. That includes proper tension, cleanliness and being lubricated. A loose chain will whack parts of the bike and cause premature sprocket wear. A chain too tight will tax the engine and limit suspension movement. A chain without lube will rob horsepower and increase fuel consumption.

As a personal habit, I usually lube my chain every 400 km which corresponds to two tankfuls of petrol.

4. Battery

As we published yesterday, almost all batteries are now “maintenance free.” However, the term only means that you don’t have to add distilled water from time to time. And that’s all!

We do need to tend to the battery by placing it on a smart charger to keep it charged. I know some will argue that it’s easy to just replace the battery every 2 years or so, but I don’t want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere at night again when a battery went kaput. Plugging in a smart charger will tell you of the condition of the battery, thereby giving you a heads up.

5. Cables

Credit wedginator

This is another oft-overlooked area on a bike, until the cable snaps. Even if it doesn’t, a dry cable will not return fully and leave the clutch slipping (slightly). You can purchase a hydraulic cable oiler or spray a good anti-corrosion agent down the cable tube.

6. Tyres

Ah hah. We’ve plunked in some good money for those bitchin’ tyres and all we do is leave them to die. How sad!

It’s good practice to scrub the sidewalls while cleaning the bike, to reveal their condition. Check the pressure at least once a week. Punctures should be addressed immediately. Don’t underinflate or overinflate.

7. Spark plugs

Spark plugs last so long these days that they can become totally forgotten about since their degradation happens progressively to the extent that we don’t feel a drastic change. But they do need to be replaced.

We admit that replacing the spark plugs for beginners could be a profanity-filled affair that’ll make Samuel L. Jackson blush, but you’ll discover so much when reaching into the nether regions in the engine compartment. You’ll see the airbox, recirculation valve, throttle bodies, the ignition coils, etc. etc. on your way to spark plug cavities in the valve cover.

8. Keyholes

Oh yes, do lube the keyholes. You don’t want to ride somewhere far only to discover that you could get the fuel tank cap to open up! (This writer found out firsthand and had to call a recovery service!)

BONUS

The next two can be performed easily but they are best left to trained mechanics. They can be life-threatening if done wrongly.

9. Coolant

The engine coolant is also another oft-neglected item. (See the ironic side of reliability?)

Depending on manufacturer, it should be replaced every two years, but this writer will change it as soon as it starts to turn milky.

The thing to remember here is to flush the cooling system of air pocket by running the engine and letting it pump out the air. The mistake is closing up the drain plug and pouring in the coolant without bleeding, leaving behind air pockets that will lead to overheating.

10. Brake pads

This job is super easy actually. The most important precaution is to reinstall the brake pad retaining pin properly. Your life and bike depend on that piece of pin!

  • A motorcycle battery doesn’t last forever.

  • But what causes it to die?

  • We touch on why a battery degrades over time.

We touched on the basics about the motorcycle battery previously.

But rather than writing on battery maintenance alone, we feel that information on how a battery degrades gives a clearer picture on the type of maintenance required. Another note: We are covering lead acid batteries here as they are the most common compared to lithium-ion and lithium-iron-phosphate (LiFePO4). Regardless if your battery is “maintenance free” or otherwise, it’s considered a lead acid type as long as it’s filled with acid (as in sulfuric acid) as the electrolyte.

How does a battery work?

Here’s a recap on how a battery produces electrical power:

  • The electrolyte solution contains charged ions, made up of sulphate (negatively charged) and hydrogen (positively charged).
  • Placing an electrical load – starter motor, ECU, headlights, etc. – causes the sulphate ions to travel to the battery’s negative plates.
  • The ions react with the plates’ active material to release electrons.
  • These excess electrons move through the negative side of the battery to any device attached.
  • The electrons travel back into the battery through the positive side.
  • The movement of electrons is the battery’s direct current, measured in Ampere (A).
  • The electrons then attach themselves to the positive plates.

How does a battery discharge?

  • At the same time, the sulfuric acid breaks down.
  • It means the electrolyte becomes less acid and more water.
  • Lead sulphate coats the battery plates in each battery cell.
  • The coated plates have less surface area to produce electrical energy.
  • It causes the production of current to drop over time.
  • If discharging continues, more lead sulphate is deposited on the plates.
  • Eventually, the chemical process that produces current stops.
  • A battery may not recover despite how long it’s charge if there’s heavy sulfation.

Self-discharge

  • All batteries self-discharge over their lifetime, even if they’re not attached to any circuit or load.
  • Sulfation occurs as long as the battery’s state of charge is below 100%.
  • The rate depends on battery type and ambient temperature.
  • Sulfation occurs if the battery is overcharged, undercharged or left discharged for just a few days.
  • Smaller lead acid batteries like those in motorcycles sulphate faster.
  • Using or storing batteries above 24 oC (75 oF) accelerates self-discharge and increases sulfation.
  • The discharge and sulfation rate doubles with the increase of every 10 o

What are the reasons for self-discharge?

  • Short trips i.e. within 25 to 30 km may not build enough charge.
  • So is occasional use i.e. once or twice a week.
  • Parasitic discharge i.e. motorcycle’s electronics that don’t fully turn off.
  • Problems in the bike’s electrical system.
  • Problems with the charging coil (stator).

We would like to add here that a motorcycle’s charging system may not charge the battery the way it likes to be charged. This could lead to certain plates being undercharged resulting in sulfation and dead cells, eventually.

What does all this mean?

This is why batteries do not last very long in our climate. A survey in conducted in the United States showed that 85% of batteries do not last up to 4 years, and the best case was just below 3 years.

It must be charged sufficiently to prevent it from dropping below 12.4 Volts.

What do we need to do then?

So, batteries aren’t exactly “maintenance free” and plug-and-play as we’d like, hence proper battery maintenance must be carried out. But first, consider fitting a voltmeter on your bike for you to keep an eye on the bike’s charging rate and battery’s health.

Keeping your battery charged up avoids that hassle of the bike refusing to start. Imagine if happens at night when all the shops are closed or you’re kilometres away from the nearest town. Worse still, you need to fork out some emergency cash.

While we can’t disagree that replacing the battery every two years solves this problem, I’ve personally used my batteries more than 3 years before replacing them, thus saving me a lot of money in the long run. I did this by using a smart charger.

A smart charger which can evaluate the battery’s state and carry out the appropriate charging strategy/strategies. These chargers pump in a certain amount of Amperage to reverse the sulfation, get it up to full capacity and finally maintain that capacity with a trickle charge.

We’ll stop here for this instalment. We’ll look at battery maintenance and smart chargers in detail in the next article.

  • The roll out of the government’s Fuel Subsidy Program will be postponed.

  • It was planned to begin on 1st January 2020.

  • Fuel prices will be calculated as per status quo.

The roll out of the government’s Fuel Subsidy Program will be postponed.

The announcement was made just 2 days away from the proposed start date of 1st January 2020. The government had earlier announced the program on 7th October 2019.

In the press release issued by the Minister of Domestic Trade and Consumer Affairs, Datuk Seri Saifuddin Nasution Bin Ismail, stated that the ministry requires more room to implement a number of steps before launching the program.

  1. Explanatory sessions to provide more information regarding the program, so that the Rakyat may understand it better.
  2. Extra time for those in the B40 category to complete their registration.

The decision to put the program on hold was reached during a Cabinet meeting on 18th December 2019. The minister says that the postponement is “indefinite” and a new launch date will be announced later.

In view of this, fuel prices will be determined via the current system through the new year.

The program was intended to assist the B40 group with petrol costs, while fuel prices will follow market rates for those outside the group. That also means that petrol prices will increase over time.

  • Here’s Part 2 of our 2019 Motorcycle Review Wrap-Up.

  • We continue with a batch of the next ten bikes.

  • Here are summaries of our verdicts.

The second batch of motorcycle reviews began in April. April holds a special place for us as it’s the month when we gear up for rides to Thailand to celebrate Songkran and the Phuket Bike Week. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to test bikes all the way there.

Still, we got the opportunity to ride one of the baddest bikes on the road and a newcomer to the middleweight adventure segment.

11. Kawasaki Ninja H2 SX SE

If you thought the Ninja H2 was mental, it makes as much sense as using a rocket launcher to kill a fly when it’s converted to a sport-tourer in the Ninja H2 SX.

It’s not about top speed (limited to 299 km/h anyway) but the sheer, visceral acceleration. To illustrate, cruise at a steady 110 km/h in sixth gear and slam on the throttle. It’ll hit 200 km/h in just about four highway lampposts. And that’s in L (low) power mode! It took only 17 minutes from BHP Gombak to Starbucks Gohtong Jaya without pushing it to knee scraping cornering and such. Talking about knee dragging, this thing handled really well, too!

All these with hard panniers and smile to go along with it.

12. Zontes ZT310-T, ZT310-X, ZT310-R

Zontes shows what a Chinese manufacturer could do when they think outside the box rather than CTRL+C CTRL+V others. But Guangdong Taiyo (manufacturer of Zontes motorcycles) demonstrates the willpower and courage to build almost everything in-house to control quality and address potential issues. This trio is just one small part of what they produce but they have gone to invade many markets around the world, so much so that there’s limited supply of stock (of bikes, not parts).

They were surprisingly good to ride and somewhat comparable to established brands. They’re not perfect but we’re confident that they will be sooner than later.

13. Kawasaki Z900RS Café

The Z900RS Café was one of the most awaited bikes along with its Z900RS brethren. Surely you’ve read this many times: It’s built as the soul successor to the groundbreaking Z1 from 1972. Yes, it looks great and there’s plenty of low-down torque and power but blighted by snatchy throttle response (on/off) and a mule-like rear shock. But hey, most don’t mind because they want how good a bike looks, instead.

14. Yamaha Tracer 900 GT

The Tracer 900 was a sales success in many parts of the world but there were things that many wished were addressed. And that’s exactly what the GT did. TFT screen, revised suspension, smooth throttle response, better seats, wider footpegs, longer swingarm, etc. etc. turns it into a legitimate sport-touring contender. Oh, let’s not forget the low price!

14. Moto Guzzi V85TT

The Piaggio group was very excited with the launch of the V85TT and so were many avid motorcycle fans. Here was a bike that looks good by mixing the elements from rally bikes with a modern classic. The result surprised even MG. The V85TT was an easy bike to just hop on and go without needing to worry about anything at all. Its handling catered to newbies and veterans alike, and it was comfortable to ride on the entire day. Shame that it costs much more than it should in Malaysia as it’s fully-CKD.

16. Honda PCX Hybrid

The first commercially available hybrid motorcycle. That electric motor certainly gave the bike that low-down punch which surprised many Ysuku riders. And it still saves lots of fuel! The Hybrid version is finished much more exquisitely than the run-of-the-mill PCX and attracted the attention of Honda City, Civic and Accord drivers when we tested it. The hybrid system really worked and we wish more bikes will be fitted with it in the future.

17. Kawasaki Z250 ABS

The Z250 is the naked version of the Ninja 250. While it doesn’t look as pretty as the Ninja 250, the suspension was something totally different. Hernia inducing bumpy roads, smooth roads, slippery road – it didn’t care. The engine was rev-happy and provided lots of hooligan-like entertainment. About the way it looks, well, we never bought into Kawasaki’s “Sugomi” design theme. We tried. Oh, we tried hard.

18. Yamaha YZR-R25

The 2019 YZF-R25 was given a facelift to look like the YZF-R6, but was also given upside-down forks. Other parts including the engine stayed the same. The forks made handling a whole world of difference compared to its predecessor – providing gobs of confidence to chuck the bike into corners despite the stock iRC tyres. However, the engine showed its age as it revved slowly. It shows just competitive the 250cc market is.

19. BMW R 1250 GS and R 1250 GS Adventure

We tested these two at one go. In shaping up for the imminent Euro 5 regulations, BMW built an entirely new Boxer engine. First, they took the capacity to 1254cc, and then topped it off with the BMW ShiftCam VVT/VVL head. Some may feel disappointed because the “feel” of the engine was almost exactly the same as the previous engine despite the hike in power and torque. But we called that an achievement because it retains the Boxer’s punchy yet smooth character. The new model is also equipped with new and revised electronics (including a bi-directional quickshifter) to make it even better as a long-haul runner.

20. BMW F 750 GS

The F 750 GS is actually the F 850 GS with the same engine but less power and meant for the road. But don’t let that stress you out because it was still a nice bike to ride. The suspension is a little tauter than the F 850 GS’s and uses 19-inch front and 17-inch rear cast alloy wheels. It’s a simple bike with nothing much to play around with apart from the excellent TFT screen, but it does allow you to fit all the luggage and accessories you need to an extended tour. That is in fact the main draw of the F-series. They cost less and are easier to maintain or repair.

  • There are things we motorcyclists should never do.

  • These points were collated over a long period of time.

  • Riding, even when commuting is a holistic approach.

We’ve covered 10 of these previously, but there are still many to address. Motorcycling isn’t like driving a car which the latter is more forgiving. One mistake as motorcyclists could send us off the road or into an oncoming truck. We’re not trying to scare you, but that’s the reality of it.

It’s reflected in any country’s appalling motorcycle accident and death statistics. While we agree that a large number of accidents involve conditions outside the rider’s control or due to other road users, the number can be brought down by riding smarter regardless of type of motorcycle you ride.

1. Never daydream

We’ve covered this before and we need to cover it again because we’ve seen how some motorcyclists still ride in between lanes on the highway, oblivious to all the cars, busses and trucks around him. The look on his face gravitates somewhere between a smirk and a stupor. Worse, he’d change lanes suddenly into the path of the vehicle behind. If we don’t like car drivers swerving into our paths, do you think they like it too?

2. Never think you’re the fastest

REUTERS/Olivia Harris

We’ve seen some motorcyclists riding as fast as they could on the highway, their bikes’ topped out with no more to go. Yet, they stay there in the overtaking lane thinking they’re going 400 km/h. Worse, they swerve in and out of traffic. That’s until an 18-wheeler truck flies up from the back. We won’t say it’s wrong to speed because that’s just unrealistic and being better-than-thou (too much of this in our country now), however, we should not allude ourselves with illusions of victory when on the road.

3. Never think other road users can see you

Credit Stomp New Straits Times

I ride and drive. So, being a biker, I understand that bikes are difficult to spot thus I’d always glance backward quickly across my shoulder before changing lanes. Even then, it’s not easy to catch sight of a bike, especially when it pulls out from behind another car. Unless everyone drives a cabriolet with the top down, the blindspots never go away. As such, never ever assume that drivers can see you. The majority of them WANT to see you but they just can’t, while a small number are just plain idiots who lack empathy for any other road user.

4. Keep moving

Credit Malay Mail

Again, we’re lucky that filtering and lane-splitting are allowed in Malaysia. If there are already plenty of cars rear-ending other cars, what chance do we have as motorcyclists if we stay in line behind or next to another vehicle? There are even car drivers who are oblivious to our presence when we are right beside their cars’ front doors, for crying out loud! Therefore, keep moving but please do so at sane speeds by never exceeding the 30 km/h faster rule. Some self-serving cretin is trying to have lane-splitting stopped, so let’s do it right.

5. Never start with the fastest, biggest

Ninja H2™

We understand that it’s your money and you can do whatever you want with it. But we don’t recommend starting out with a Kawasaki Ninja H2 as you’re first bike. It’s best to start with something smaller, preferably a 250cc (or even a moped) and work your way up.

Sure, bikes got easier and easier to ride through my 31 years of experience but that’s relative. While bikes used to struggle to hit 400 metres less than 12 seconds, the current crop of litre-class sportbike can do it in 10, consistently. Even a tall, heavy adventure bike like the BMW R 1250 GS hits 100 km/h in 2.9 seconds, and 400 m (¼-mile) in 11 seconds. More tellingly, the GS can accelerate from 60 km/h to 100 km/h in 1.1 seconds (in overtaking cases).

That’s just the performance aspect and you need to consider other areas such as braking, seat height, braking, body positioning, etc.

Starting out on something smaller will give you an easier and safer learning curve.

6. Never trust the electronics alone

Modern bikes are easier to ride due to the electronics (in varying degrees) amongst other things. However, we should never trust the electron pushers explicitly, as evidenced by the large number of crashes despite the exponential advances in this area. This is not to say that they’re gimmicks, but you need to know how they work in order for them to assist you (the word here is “assist”). We’ll touch on this in detail in a later article. In the meantime, think about learning to ride correctly.

7. Never stop learning

This is one of the biggest enemies to everyone, more so to us bikers. We understand it’s not easy these days since there are so many other forms of instant gratification i.e. social media but do make a conscious attempt to uncover some great things about this lifestyle. Also, take up an advanced riding course (or all of them) – it’s the best investment you could ever make.

8. Never be a know-it-all

Mr. Know-it-All is the guys who pushes his “ideals” on anyone, regardless if his views are correct or similar to the proposal of stopping toll collection in Malaysia. However, his “expert” views are usually gleaned from some shiny brochure then twisted to make it sound like he’s a guru with words like: “I like the bike because of its self-centering steering.” (That’s funny because 1) Self-centering is for car steering; 2) Self-centering on bike is bad news because it means the bike doesn’t want to finish a corner; 3) As a consequence, you can’t open the throttle earlier to balance the bike in mid-corner.) Or another example, someone who keeps pushing his views on you despite you already saying that it’s an “estimate.”

That’s why they don’t have friends. Don’t let this happen to you.

9. Never modify your bike without considering the consequences

 

We’re not talking about a slip-on exhaust or luggage here, but more in terms of performance mods to the engine, brakes, suspension. Each modification has an impact on something else which then requires modifications themselves. Buggering it up will cost you more money and time, even heartache. This is partly where “never stop learning” comes into play. Additionally, there’s also the legal aspects to consider.

10. Never assume racing parts are suitable

News flash: Racing parts aren’t absolute must-haves unless we race. Again, apply “never stop learning” and you’ll discover that slicks are never to be used on public roads; racing brake fluid is more hydrophilic (attracts water) than “regular” DOT 4 fluid; racing engine oils in the regions of 0W-30 are just too thin for everyday use; etc. Granted, the line between racing and street performance components is increasingly blurred these days, but again, research thoroughly before you make the change.

Conclusion

Riding, even when just commuting, requires a holistic and total approach. There’s just no other way around it in order to ensure that we arrive safely and live another day to ride. So, please keep these pointers in mind and share them with your friends.

  • Here’s Part 1 of our 2019 Motorcycle Review Wrap-Up.

  • We test nearly 40 bikes in 2019.

  • We summarize some of our verdicts here.

Looking back through 2019, we reviewed some 30 motorcycles. That’s why we decided to present our 2019 Motorcycle Review Wrap-Up, to welcome the new year.

We tested bikes in China, Morocco, Spain (multiple times including a tyre test), and Thailand (of course). The rest were conducted locally.

Here are the bikes we rode in 2019, in chronological order.

1. Yamaha YZF-R15

The YZF-R15 may be just a little 155cc sportbike but it’s just so much fun. What it lacks in outright horsepower it makes up in superb handling. We even scored a few kneedowns on it. We do need to say this: It did outrun the Yamaha “Ysuku” (Y15ZR”).

Read: 2019 Yamaha YZF-R15 Test & Review

2. BMW F 850 GS

We were super excited to receive this bike. It wasn’t just a 50cc hop-up from its predecessor, for it’s an entirely new bike. The supple suspension makes it comfortable for everyday use but that shows its intended off-road DNA. It has a lot more low- and midrange punch now, plus a whole lot more comfortable that the previous F 800 GS.

Read: BMW F 850 GS Test & Review

3. Honda CFR1100L Africa Twin

Yes, the Africa Twin has many fans but we kind of struggled to get to grips with the DCT 2 (Dual Clutch Transmission). Maybe it was because we needed more time to get used to it. In any case, the bike was good to ride, and we did a number of long trips out of town during testing. Great low-down and midrange torque for zipping around town with a long-legged highway prose.

Read: Honda CRF1100L Africa Twin Test & Review

4. Ducati Scrambler 1100 Sport

This model is the alpha bike of the Ducati Scrambler family, bedecked with Öhlins suspension. It sure was a soulful ride but it’s no Monster, of course. The fun is using that torque and handling to zap traffic. It can do some light off-roading, as well.

Read: Ducati Scrambler 1100 Sport Test & Review

5. Honda CB250R

The naked CB250R is the smallest model of what Honda calls the “Neo Sport Café” line-up. As the name suggests, it combines classic and modern styling elements. Well, styling is just styling because it’s a punchy little bike to ride. It may be a 250cc, but the acceleration would match something in the 300cc range, and the lack of weight makes it easy to throw around. Build quality was the typical top-notch Honda.

Read: Honda CB250R Test & Review

6. Honda CB1000R

While the CB250R was the smallest, the CB1000R was the taikor (big brother). It’s inline-four was sourced from the pre-2017, long-stroke, CBR1000RR Fireblade. Doing so gave the bike great low-down and midrange torque, while still maintaining enough top-end power to keep things entertaining. It’s a modern classic kind of bike with a single-sided swingarm.

Read: Honda CB1000R Test & Review

7. KTM 790 Adventure (790 Adventure R)

The KTM 790 Adventure and 790 Adventure R represent the most off-road capable middleweight adventure bikes. The former is more road-oriented while the latter is an out-and-out off-roader. Still, they are both good to ride on the road. Confused? Well, just think of the base model being for the occasional off-road rider, while the “R” version is for hardcore riders. But you can still take either one for touring. New electronics, suspension, fuel tank placement, seats, etc. makes it a legitimate middleweight dual-sport contender.

Read: KTM 790 Adventure Test & Review

8. Ducati Hypermotard 950 (and Hypermotard 950 SP)

The King of Hooligan bikes. Bar none. Wheelie-happy, kneedown-happy, foot-out-happy, stoppie-happy and everything else in between. Ducati brought in more refinements for the 2019 model while still maintaining its rowdy character. This is one bike you just couldn’t be nice on!

Read: Ducati Hypermotard 950 Test & Review

9. Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10R SE

Kawasaki is rightfully proud of the ZX-10R as it’s the multiple WorldSBK title winner, after all. The ZX-10R SE isn’t the WorldSBK homologation model (that’s the ZX-10RR) but it has the new Showa electronic suspension. It’s claimed to work faster than their rival Öhlins’ offering. It was certainly true as the damping rights made the bike less tiresome to ride on public roads. The bike’s chassis shows a bit of its age where it still has a stiff frontal area, where almost all new superbikes have gone the softer route. It means that you would need more effort to get the front to lean into corners compared to the others. Also, the inline-four engine is tuned for higher power, so it needs to get above 6,000 RPM before any real acceleration happens.

Read: Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10R SE Test and Review

10. Ducati Diavel 1260 S

The Diavel 1260 S is 90% new. A lot of work had gone into giving the bike butch features such as electronics, display panels, bodywork panels, etc. However, the biggest news has to be the engine as its now powered by the Desmo Variable Timing (DVT) equipped 1262cc Testastretta V-Twin from the Multistrada 1260. It means more power, of course, but the DVT gives the bike engine a more precise engine response, rather than a sudden kick.

Read: Ducati Diavel 1260 S Test & Review

Intermission

That’s Part 1 for now. Stay tuned for further instalments.

  • Here are our 10 Tips for Riding in the Rain.

  • Riding in the rain can actually be fun.

  • Train yourself right and you will never have to fear rain again.

We had published “How to Ride Through Flash Floods” some time back, so it’s only right that we present these 10 tips for riding in the rain since it’s the wet season in Malaysia. Oh wait… It’s either hot or raining, anyway.

Riding in the rain can be more fun since the weather is cooler. Your senses are also heightened for extra concentration.

1. Ride bright

To us, this is the primary requisite. If it’s already important to ride in bright clothing when it’s sunny, it becomes imperative in the rain. Do get yourself a set of waterproof gear in bright fluorescent yellow or fluorescent orange. Failing which, you can also wear a vest over your gear. Be seen, be safe.

2. Stop in safe areas

We’re bikers too, so we understand that we’ve to stop somewhere to pull on our rain gear or if conditions get too dicey to continue. However, use utmost discretion in where you choose to stop. Stopping under a flyover is an obvious opportunity, we won’t debate it, but don’t stay on your bike. Park it, switch on the parking lights (if so equipped) and go behind the barrier. There’ve been too many cases of zombie drivers who rammed into groups of motorcyclists under the flyover.

4. Slow down… but not too slow

Don’t slow down too much – Photo credit cycleworld.com

Slowing down in the rain is obvious, but don’t go too slow. The tyres need some speed to evacuate water from their contact patches. Besides that, the wheels need some speed to have gyroscopic forces which contribute to motorcycle stability. Riding too slow will cause the tyres to slide too early or loss of stability. There’s no hard rule to slow down by how much because it depends on the bike, tyres and rider. Going too slow is also dangerous because you may become a bowling pin for impatient/zombie/blind vehicle drivers. So, judge for yourself.

4. Be smooth

Being smooth at the controls allows the bike i.e. chassis, tyres to work like they’re intended to. Smooth here means no sudden changes in direction, acceleration and braking. As such, give yourself more room to the vehicles in front and all around you.

5. Stay loose

Photo credit ultimatemotorcycling.com

Stay loose on the bike by not stiffening up your body. Stiffening up runs counter to bike dynamics and it will force bad situations to become worse, for example if the tyres let go. Keep your arms and torso relaxed and clamp your thighs to the fuel tank at all times.

6. One thing at a time

Courtesy of Sport Rider

It means separating your braking, turning and acceleration inputs. It’s best to not brake and downshift at the same time, even if your bike is equipped with a slipper clutch. So do brake and downshift earlier before the corner, to allow the chassis and tyres to settle down before turning in. Also roll on your throttle smoothly through the corner and at the exit.

7. Puddles are NOT fun

Photo credit directasia.com

Yes, we loved to jump into puddles when we were kids. Or causing a huge splash when riding. But they can be downright dangerous as it’s hard to gauge the water’s depth or if it’s hiding a deep hole. So, steer clear if possible, but if you can’t, slow down and maintain a steady speed. Chopping the gas will have the water acting as an instant brake and can cause you to drop the bike.

8. Have a vision

The most difficult thing while riding in the rain is trying to see out of the helmet, right? Jet-type helmets (open-faced with visor) work best. On the other hand, if you ride with a full-faced helmet, get one with a Pinlock anti-fog insert. It makes all the difference in the world! However, please remember this: DO NOT flip up the visor as long as you’re under the rain, because if you do, rainwater will run down between the Pinlock and visor, causing it to fog.

Also, you can treat the outer part of the visor with light automotive wax. It will bead up the water into small droplets and the wind blows them away when you’re riding. It’s not perfect, but it sure beats a non-coated visor. Our favourite is the original Rain-X Plastic Water Repellant. (The important distinction here is “plastic.” DO NOT apply the normal Rain-X for car windshields on your helmet visor as the RainX will eat away its coating!)

9. The gloves stay on

Yes, they’ll get soaked, but twisting the throttle and holding on to the handlebar with bare palms is much less than fun. At least you’ve a better grip and your hands are kept protected by debris or (touch wood) a crash. Or have a spare pair of waterproof gloves. You can use the palms of the gloves to wipe your helmet visor, as a bonus. (This writer wears rubber surgical gloves under his regular gloves during rainy weather. A perk of having a wife who’s a nurse. Heh heh heh.)

10. Waterproof everything

Ziploc bags, a waterproof pouch, or even better a top case to carry your belongings. No one enjoys trying to dry soaked cash or other important stuff you may have in your wallet. Worse is your smartphone unless if it’s waterproof.

  • Euro 5 emission standard begins in 2020.

  • But what are emissions?

  • How do they impact our daily lives?

This article should’ve been published some time back, but there’s still time since the Euro 5 emission standard takes effect from 2020. Surely, you’ve seen the “Euro 5” term in reviews and new model launches.

What are “emissions”?

An internal combustion engine turns fuel to energy which turns the wheels. But the burning of fuel releases by-products, but the six most polluting ones are:

  • Carbon dioxide,
  • Carbon monoxide,
  • Sulfur dioxide,
  • Nitrogen oxides,
  • Lead,
  • Particulate matter,
  • Hydrocarbons.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2)

CO2 is the primary product when the carbon in fuel isn’t combusted completely, since carbon is 60% to 90% part of fuel (petroleum is hydrocarbon). Internal combustion vehicles contribute the largest amount of CO2.

CO2 has long been proven as a greenhouse gas, which traps infrared radiation escaping from the surface of the earth and causes the atmosphere to heat up. In other words, it makes the world hotter and hotter. Such phenomenon is demonstrated on our planetary neighbour Venus. Its atmosphere is so hot it can melt lead (lead’s melting point is at 327.5 degrees Celsius).

Atmosphere heating leads to climate change as in mega droughts in one location, abnormal rainfall in another. The ice caps will eventually melt, causing worldwide megafloods. No, we didn’t get that from disaster movies, but from documentaries.

Carbon Monoxide (CO)

CO is colourless, odourless and tasteless gas, unlike in movies.

Although CO is not common is large quantities in ambient air, it can be poisonous even to healthy individuals. Prolonged exposure or exposure to elevated levels can lead to:

  • Visual impairment,
  • Reduced work capacity,
  • Reduced manual dexterity (muscular, skeletal and neurological functions to produce small and precise movements, like using the fingers to grab your motorcycle keys).
  • Poor learning ability,
  • Difficulty in performing complex tasks,
  • Individuals with cardiovascular disease may get angina pectoris (severe chest pain leading to shoulders, arms, neck).

You see, our blood cells called Hemoglobin (no, not the antagonist in Spider-Man) is an iron compound which carried oxygen (O2) from the lungs to tissues. It then transports CO2 back to the lungs to be expelled. Hemoglobin has a 240 time more affinity (attraction to) CO than to oxygen. As our total Hemoglobin is finite, the amount available to transport oxygen is reduced.

In worst cases, CO leads to death. Exposure to CO in enclosed spaces will first lead to drowsiness, fainting and death. The victim’s skin will turn flush red.

Sulfur dioxide (SO2)

SO2 is part of the family of sulfur oxide gases (SOx). The kicker is these gases dissolve easily in water and form acids. Sulfur is prevalent in all raw materials including crude petroleum, coal and metal ores such as aluminium, copper, zinc, lead, iron.

So, combustion of fuel produces SOx gases. These gases mixes with water vapour, other gases and particles in the atmosphere to become sulfates. Know the term acid rain? This is how it’s made.

Short-term exposure leads to breathing problems or asthma, while those with asthma may have breathing difficulties. Long-term exposure leads to aggravation of cardiovascular disease, respiratory illness and alternations to the lungs’ defences.

Nitrogren Oxides (NOx)

NOx is the general term for a group of highly reactive gasses that contain nitrogen and oxygen in varying amounts. Many among them are colourless and odourless. The form when fuel is burned at high temperatures, as in the combustion process. In fact, NOx is the largest form of emissions from combustion (up to 90%).

The most common form known nitrogen dioxide can be seen above our cities on certain days as that reddish-brown layer, which is also called smog. It’s the product of NO2 mixing with ground-level ozone and particles in the air.

It gets worse that blocking out a clear blue sky.

Short-term exposures (less than 30 hours) may lead to changes in airway responsiveness and lung function in those with pre-existing respiratory illnesses. It may also increase respiratory illnesses in children.

Long-term exposures to NO2 may lead to increased susceptibility to respiratory infection and may cause irreversible alterations in lung structure.

It destroys the environment, too. NOx is also a precursor to acid rain and ozone.

Increased nitrogen introduction to land and wetland ecosystems can lead to changes in plant species composition and diversity. Direct input to aquatic ecosystems leads to excessive algae growth which depletes dissolved oxygen and increases toxins harmful to aquatic life.

Particulate Matter (PM)

General term for mixture of solid particles and liquid droplets found in the air. Some are large enough to be seen as dust or dirt. Others are only detectable with an electron microscope.

There are two sources of PM:

  • “Primary” particles are formed through combustion process and emitted directly into the atmosphere. Examples include black carbon (soot) and dust from roads.
  • “Secondary” particles are formed in the atmosphere from primary emissions. An example is carbon soot from automobiles.

Particles smaller than or equal to 10 µm (micro metre or millionth of a metre) can be ingested into the lungs and cause health problems. They aggravate respiratory conditions such as asthma and bronchitis, and have long been associated with irregular heartbeats and heart attacks. Short-term exposures can also be associated with health problems.

Conclusion

These are just the basics! It’s so easy to forget about how polluting it is when we twist that throttle. But that’s what emissions standards are for: They’re there to specify lower emissions for the betterment of our planet and lives.

These emissions standards give rise to emissions control components such as the catalytic converter. So, you might want to think twice before you “de-cat” your bike or car.

That’s it for now, we’ll see what Euro 5 stipulates and how it impacts the motorcycle manufacturers and consumers.

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