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oil

  • What do the markings on engine oil bottles tell us?

  • A full understanding of engine oils results in using the correct oil.

  • Using the wrong oil could result in higher maintenance and repair costs.

It always happens. Post anything about engine oil and emotions get stirred harder than a Frappuccino. There are just so many fears, myths and misunderstanding. So, let’s start with the basics such as the markings on engine oil bottles.

Every engine oil bottle has markings on them, telling us something about its properties. What goes on beyond that would be the specifics such as the base oil, additive packages, high-heat protection, etc.

GRADE

This is the oft-discussed property. Common nomenclatures are 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40 and so forth. They’re also marked as SAE 10W-40, sometimes (these days) but we’ll get to SAE later.

They denote the viscosity index (VI) of the oil at certain conditions. We say again, “certain conditions.” Viscosity means the flow properties of oil. A less viscous fluid flows easier and we usually call it “thin.” On the other hand, a more viscous fluid flows slower and we call it “thick.”

So, a 10W-40 oil is more viscous then 15W-50.

Credit Rymax Lubricants

The “W” stands for winter and tells us what the viscosity is when the ambient temperature (weather) drops to freezing point and below. Please refer to the chart below.

So, a 10W-40 oil can maintain a viscosity index of 10 at -25-degrees Celsius. As such, the “W” in engine oils doesn’t concern us in Malaysia at all, unless the Earth shifts the Equator to become the North or South Pole somehow. It also doesn’t matter we stayed overnight at Genting Highlands.

By the way, oils with two numbers are called “multigrades” because they can perform through a wider range of temperatures compared to single grade oils such as SAE 40.

As for the upper ranges, more viscous oil is needed at higher ambient temperatures. Since our weather normally stays below 40-degree Celcius, any 40-grade is good enough. However, using a 50-grade oil such as 15W-50 is also okay especially for older engines that need more sealing.

One caveat that must be observe is the use of oil that’s too thin or too thick. Too thin and the oil will be too light at high temperatures to provide good protection, while an oil which is too think may not get pumped through small gap sufficiently. The safest bet is to go by the engine manufacturer’s recommendation then move to a higher viscosity when the bike ages.

SAE

SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers. They are the people who set the standards for engineering professionals in various industries. Among the key members were Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, Glenn Martin, Orville Wright and Charles Kettering. They currently have over 138,000 members worldwide.

Oil properties standards such as viscosity index was specified by SAE called the SAE J300.

Although not shown these days, oil grades still adhere to SAE standards.

API SL/SM/SN

You may have heard friends say “SN” grade. This has no connection to the viscosity index. Some even called it “oil quality” but the real desription is the oil’s service standard as classified by the American Petroleoum Institute (API).

The short explanation for the classification is the oil’s suitability to the performance of vehicles, according to when they were produced. In other words, newer bikes require higher oil specification oil. This is because the oil grades were developed hand-in-hand with automotive manufacturers and the API.

The current standard for petrol engines, SN, was introduced in October 2010 for vehicles produced from 2011 onwards. Grades SA through SH are considered obsolete and should not be used.

The classifications are backward compatible, meaning that you can use SN oil for older vehicles. Refer to the chart above.

Classifications are made depending on the oil’s properties such as soot thickening, seal compatibility, aftertreatment compatibility, fuel economy, oxidative thickening, piston deposits, sludge and wear.

JASO MA or JASO MA2

The short description is the oil’s compatibility with “wet clutches.” The engine oil in virtually all motorcycles (apart from certain models) is shared between protecting engine parts, the transmission and clutch.

As such, the oil needs to withstand high temperatures and pressures from combustion, shearing forces in the gearbox, and still allow the clutch plates and friction to grip each other in order to transfer the engine’s power. This is why we should never, ever use engine oils for cars!

Anyway, the standard is JASO T 903:2006. To meet JASO requirements, the oil must be of API SG classification and above.

The oil is tested for dynamic friction, static friction and stop time to meet the JASO T 904:2006 clutch friction test results. They are then divided further into JASO MA, JASO MA1, JASO MB, and JASO MA2.

Do consult your user’s manual if your bike requires JASO MA/MA2 specification oil.

CONCLUSION

We’ll stop at this for the moment. We’ll take a look at the lubricants’ base oil such as PAO, ester, GTL, mineral, etc.

  • Lubrication systems in modern engines provides sufficient lubrication.

  • However, most engine damage occurs during start up.

  • Castrol Activ aims to provide lubrication during all stages of engine operation.

Car drivers should be familiar with a Castrol product called Magnetec. The engine lubricant is infused with a formulation that clings to engine parts (hence “magnet”) even after you turn off the engine, thus protecting it when restarted. But Magnetec is for cars and lubricants for cars and motorcycle engines are different (click here to find out why they are different). Castrol aims to achieve the same for motorcycle engines with the new Castrol Activ lubricant.

Lubrication systems in modern engines do provide sufficient lubrication while running, but the oil will drain back down into the sump a few minutes after stopping the engine (that’s why we check the oil level with the engine off after running it for a few minutes). Therefore, there’s hardly any oil when we restart the engine, although almost all good lubricants will leave a layer a micron thick on the surfaces it lubricated before. But it depends if that layer breaks down at engine start. Besides that, most new engines have parts with coatings that trap some oil – usually the piston rings, piston skirts and cylinder bores – while other parts do not.

That is why, contrary to popular belief, most engine damage actually occurs during start up, not when fully running.

The new lubricant is fortified with improved Actibond molecules, that cling to critical engine parts through all stages of riding.

Keow Mei-Shan, Marketing Director for Castrol Malaysia and Singapore explained, “Modern riding conditions demand a lot from riders and their motorcycles. There can be at least 10 million instances per month where a motorcycle engine could get damaged simply whilst running. In fact, a motorcycle requires continuous protection not just whilst riding but also during start up and even when the engine is off. The new formulation of Castrol Activ has Improved Actibonds that provide continuous protection during start up, riding and even when the engine is switched off. Overall, new Castrol Activ promises Castrol’s Best Continuous Protection ever for motorcycles.”

Castrol Activ is able to protect your motorcycle’s engine through all three stages of operation:

  • During start up – Most engine wear occurs during warm up, just after start. The improved Actibond molecules reduces warm up wear by 75 thereby reducing wear and tear of vital engine parts.
  • During riding – The improved Actibond molecules fights deposits and provides superior engine cleanliness, to help ensure smooth running and reduce piston wear.
  • During engine switch off – By clinging on to engine parts even when the engine is switched off, Castrol Activ provides excellent protection against corrosion which may occur due to humidity.

We came across this Castrol Activ TVC from India, so please take a peek.

Castrol Activ meets API SL and JASO MA2 specifications. It is available in 1 litre bottles at Castrol Bike Points, motorcycle workshops and retailers throughout Malaysia at the price of RM23.50 for Peninsular Malaysia and RM24.20 for East Malaysia.

  • Ever wonder why bike shops don’t sell car engine oils?

  • Using a car-specific engine oil for motorcycle engines is bad.

  • But worse are those who don’t listen.

I used to hang out with a bike club many years ago and the last TTS (teh tarik session) with them was in 2012.

The group consists of the more senior crowd, from their mid-30’s and up. A few guys have been riding for a long, long time. Although I had been (legally) riding for 25 years up to that point, there were two guys who started riding even earlier.

I’m usually the quiet one, sitting silently in the corner, always enjoying my tomyam ayam kurang pedas while mosquitos fed on me in return. Symbiosis with nature, albeit in a stupid way.

One night, they started discussing about engine oil. Now, that’s one subject I’d abstain from because no other topic has the kind of passion to create an animosity just short of a new world conflict. Brader X (not his real name nor pet name), who’s the group’s “mechanic” spoke the loudest. He proudly proclaimed that he’s now using Mobil 1 for cars, which he has plenty around his car workshop anyway. (There’s a Mobil 1 for motorcycles but this guy was using the one for cars.)

The others took interest for some inexplicable reason. Maybe it was a full moon night, or Jupiter was aligned to the Earth, I didn’t check, but no one spoke up about using automotive engine oil in a bike! Or maybe it’s because Brader X can patch a tyre leak while we’re out riding.

So, out of helpfulness, I broke my code of silence and offered, “I’m not a major in this subject, but I’m very certain that we shouldn’t use a car’s engine oil for our bikes. None of us is using a bike with dry clutch, and even if we did, we should best stick to a lubricant for bikes.”

“Car lubricants are different because they contain friction modifiers and is not shared with the clutch. All our bikes are the wet clutch, which means the engine oil goes there too. A car’s engine oil will cause the clutch to slip and ultimately wear out the plates,” I explained.

I continued further, “That’s why we need to use oils that are either JASO MA or JASO MA2 certified. Those aren’t found on car engine oils for that very reason. You might just as well use minyak masak Saji (Saji cooking oil) if you want to use car oil!”

I swear to you that I said that not because I had bad childhood thus I craved attention, credit and affirmation. Instead, I did that because I just wanted to help, so I didn’t expect any “Thank you.”

But I didn’t expect to get lambasted either.

Mr. A (for a word which starts with that letter and ends with an “e”) straight up accused me of “supporting a petroleum brand that’s bankrolled by Jews.” Brader M said, “All engine oils are the same, their only job is to ensure the engine doesn’t seized solid, anyway.” Brader S, our group’s leader said, “We should just try it.”

Still, I protested, “Please. Don’t.” “Just get back to your tomyam and let the old men talk. We’ve been riding since you were just a kid,” Mr. A castigated me.

Fine. I shrugged and ordered another teh-o ais limau.

I missed the next entire month’s TTS as I was busy and rejoined them after that.

Again, I ordered my favourite tomyam and sipped quietly in the corner. But my curiousity got the better of me and I decided to ask, “How’s the oil in your bikes?”

They half-turned to me and then Brader M pulled out his phone abruptly, stuck his face into his Facebook newsfeed as if another 9-11 happened. Mr. A suddenly got Mr. S’s attention and interest in a lawn bowl telecast on TV (who the heck watches lawn bowl anyway?). Mr. X was missing, he’s never missed a TTS.

It was only when I was leaving that Mr. S said, “You were right, the oil caused our clutch to slip. My new bike’s (a Z1000SX) clutch is gone.”

I just nodded and left, never to see them ever again.

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