A Facebook user shared an unfortunate incident in which the brakes of his motorcycle were stolen in Penang on Monday.
According to the Facebook user, Zul Aziz, the brake callipers of his Honda X-ADV 750 motorcycle was stolen despite parking it at the main entrance of the hotel.
The victim also expressed disappointment with the hotel management, not only for failing to take responsibility for the incident but also for not placing enough emphasis on security, even though the motorcycle was parked right at the hotel lobby entrance.
A similar incident has occurred in the past involving a group of riders from Thailand and France.
Brake caliper lock bolts is one way to secure your brake calipers from theft.
Brake caliper and brake master pump thefts are still happening.
You can purchase them right here from our e-commerce site.
It goes without saying that brake caliper theft is an epidemic in Malaysia. One way to secure them is by using brake caliper lock bolts.
No brand of front brake caliper is seemingly safe from the lowlifes as they target anything which is not found on kapchais. While any Brembo caliper is their favourite, Nissin, Tokico and even ByBre calipers get the stolen. Some thieves don’t even stop at just the brake calipers as they steal the brake master pumps, too!
We’re not trying to scare you, but the disease is so bad that even the brake calipers of police motorcycles aren’t spared.
We’ve run an article on how to secure your brake calipers and have been inundated with questions on where to purchase the lock bolts since then. Well, fret no more because we have them right here in our e-commerce platform.
The lock bolts
These lock bolts require a special “key” to install and remove them. Sturdy caps are included in the package to hide them away to avoid the heads being tampered with.
Each bolt is made of high-quality high tensile steel to ensure reliable usage and strong platform for the brakes.
The range
Please get in touch with us if your bike isn’t listed below.
Harley-Davidson Motor Company, Inc. telah memulakan satu Kempen Panggilan Semula Keselamatan bagi menggantikan bendalir brek yang lama bagi sesetengah model.
Model-model yang terlibat adalah model Touring, CVO Touring dan V-Rod dengan ABS dari tahun 2008 hingga 2011.
Kedai pengedar rasmi Harley-Davidson terbaru di Malaysia, Harley-Davidson Petaling Jaya, akan mengendalikan kempen ini di tanah air kita.
Harley-Davidson Motor Company, Inc. has initiated a Safety Recall Campaign to replace the old brake fluid of certain models.
The models involved are 2008 TO 2011 TOURING, CVO TOURING AND V-ROD MODELS WITH ABS.
The new Malaysian Harley-Davidson dealership, Harley-Davidson of Petaling Jaya will carry out the campaign.
The Harley-Davidson Motor Company, Inc. is conducting a Safety Recall Campaign for its motorcycles worldwide.
In an earlier article of ours, we mentioned that the motorcycle’s brake fluid needs to be replaced every 2 years, regardless of mileage and appearance.
This is because brake fluid is hygroscopic (a description for something that loves moisture) and will absorb moisture right out of the air. It is even more critical in our country where the climate is hot and humid. Moisture in the fluid will lower the latter’s boiling point, causing brake fade.
Old vs new brake fluid
As for this Safety Recall Campaign, the models involved are 2008 TO 2011 TOURING, CVO TOURING AND V-ROD MODELS WITH ABS.
The Motor Company notes that the brake fluid should be flushed and replaced with fresh fluid every two years, as per the H-D Owner’s Manual and Service Manual. Prolonged usage of the old fluid may cause it to gel and leave deposits on the brake components. Should these deposits continue to form over a prolonged period on the apply valve of the ABS Hydraulic Control unit, the valve may stick and cause a loss of braking function.
The new Harley-Davidson dealership in Malaysia, Harley-Davidson of Petaling Jaya (HDPJ), will carry out the campaign for all the affected motorcycles, regardless if they were purchased through the official channel or grey importers. And there is also good news for owners of grey import Harley-Davidson’s, as the new dealer no longer charges an exorbitant “activation fee” for the technician to simply work on your bike. All Harley-Davidson’s are now welcome at HDPJ regardless of where you bought your bike.
Harley-Davidson of Petaling Jaya is located at The Gasket Alley
As such, the Motor Company will communicate the affected VIN (vehicle identification number) to HDPJ. However, as HDPJ is still new and there are many grey import Harleys in Malaysia, owners of 2008 TO 2011 TOURING, CVO TOURING AND V-ROD MODELS WITH ABS are advised to contact HDPJ and provide their VIN for verification. HDPJ will immediately confirm if the motorcycle if affected.
The new Harley-Davidson Platinum Label DOT 4 brake fluid will be available for ordering from mid-March 2018, thus HDPJ will schedule appointments for the affected units.
Only the replacement of brake fluid is covered and no further parts will be replaced under the campaign. Replacement of the brake fluid will be carried out using the Digital Tech II apparatus, as the bikes are equipped with ABS. Please be advised that the machine will instruct the ABS hydraulic control unit to fully flush the brake fluid and residue, hence replacement of brake fluid without the Digital Tech II machine is erroneous and potentially dangerous.
The task will take 1.5 hours and is free-of-charge.
Please get in touch with Harley-Davidson of Petaling Jaya at +603-79559399. You may also call Service Advisors Lingesh at +6018-9861229, or Naqid at +6018-9891229. HDPJ are open from 9.30am to 7.00pm Mondays to Saturdays and, closed on Sundays and Public Holidays. Please click here to visit the Harley-Davidson of Petaling Jaya’s FB page.
Also, as a side note to parallel importers who import Harley-Davidson’s, the official dealer at Harley-Davidson Petaling Jaya will also conduct software updates and bike resetting to prepare the motorcycle for local sale. While importers had to previously fork out money to previous H-D technicians to conduct “localization” and resetting, the official dealer can and will reprogram the bike for you with all the right tools and machines needed to service the bike. This is great news for grey importers as they can now have their machines better prepared for sale, while buyer’s can now rest easy knowing that their machines have been worked on by official Harley-Davidson technicians.
According to Juan Chow Wee, who is the General Manager of Didi Resources Sdn Bhd, the importer and distributor of Harley-Davidson in Malaysia, the new Harley-Davidson of Petaling Jaya is opening its doors to all owners of Harley-Davidson regardless of whether it was bought through the official channel or through the grey market.
“We want to be accessible to all Harley-Davidson riders, and we will not practise two standards. The love for Harley-Davidson runs in everyone working for Harley-Davidson of Petaling Jaya and we are showing this by not charging any localisation fee for any Harley-Davidson bike. The price of bikes, parts, accessories and merchandise has also been adjusted to ensure competitiveness, and we are proud to continue the Harley-Davidson brotherhood which was recently put on display at the Grand Opening ride and party.”
Radial brake caliper mounting is all the rage nowadays.
But the “normal” axial-mounting is still present.
What are the benefits of mounting the caliper radially?
To rehash, we’ve seen the basic principles of the brake system in Part 1, about how the pressure from your fingers is transferred into fluid pressure, resulting in braking force.
Therefore, let’s now examine the methods of mounting the front brake caliper to the motorcycle, or more specifically, about the radial mounting arrangement that’s all the rage these days. Yes, so popular they are that even lowlife thieves couldn’t resist them.
Axial master cylinder
One, the traditional type is the “axial” master cylinder, found on almost all motorcycles with front hydraulic brakes from small to large.
In this arrangement, the master cylinder’s bore is perpendicular to the lever’s travel, seemingly elongated to the left side viewed from the top. A protrusion on the end of the lever pushes the plunger in cylinder, forcing brake fluid into the calipers.
Radial master pump
The second and more recent type is the radial master cylinder. The master cylinder’s bore is parallel to the brake lever’s movement, looking more directly fore-and-aft when viewed from the top.
What’s the difference between the two? Other than a different type of piston movement, the radial master cylinder provides a better feel at the lever for what the brake is doing. The radial master cylinder is more rigid as there are fewer moving parts.
Axial-mount calipers
With the advent of radially-mounted brake calipers, this format has gone on to be called the “normal mounting.” The caliper is mounted to “bosses” cast into a fork’s bottom tube, with bolts that run parallel to the wheel axle.
There isn’t anything wrong with this type of mounting. However, custom brackets need to be fabricated should one want to install a larger brake disc. Other than that, there may exist a little torsional flex for lateral movement, although it’s hardly perceptible when ridden on the streets.
Radial-mount calipers
In this setup, the caliper is still mounted to bosses cast into the lower fork legs. However, the bosses are cast to allow bolts to be fitted directly from the rear, instead of from the side, and perpendicular to the wheel axle.
Being mounted this way means there is virtually no deflection because the braking forces are on the same plane as the brake disc’s rotational forces.
What are the benefits of radially-mount calipers?
First and foremost, being mounted from the rear means all the rider needs to do is install spacers and longer bolts when switching to a larger disc, instead of having to custom make a mounting bracket.
Picture from MotorMadMan
There is a myth surrounding radially-mounted calipers as having more braking power. Want us to be honest?
As we highlighted in Part 1, “brake power” is defined by the amplification of brake fluid pressure, in relation to the size of the master pump’s piston and caliper pistons’ sizes.
What radial mounting does though, with the lack of deflection, provides for a crisper feel when braking, i.e. better braking feedback, and in turn allowing for better modulation of the front brake.
Where it’s usually more important for the track than the streets.
There are different brake pad compounds available in the market.
Each provides a different braking feel.
Find a type that suits your riding style and use of the motorcycle.
Brake pads are often overlooked for the majority of riders, “Hey as long as it stops, no problem.” Or we just ride replace the pads when the mechanic tells us that it’s time do so. It’s almost like we have no choice in it, except when it comes to paying, “Brape? (How much?)”
Perhaps, it doesn’t have to be so with a little more understanding, then we could dictate on what we actually need, instead of being led by the nose.
Brake Pad Friction Rating
Before we go further, be aware that there are two current friction ratings for brake pads, GH and HH.
Both those letters signify the brake pad’s coefficient of friction (CoF); the first being the CoF at normal working temperature, and the second at an extreme temperature of 650 oF (343 oC). Therefore, the ratings indicate how much friction is there at certain operating temperatures. The G-rating offers between 0.45 and 0.55, while the H-rating’s CoF is from 0.55 and up. These ratings are usually stamped on the outside of the pad’s back plate, although there are manufacturers who don’t do so but specify it on the brake pads’ packing, instead.
Brake Pad Material
Having the right type of pad material determines how it feels when the brakes are applied and how it stops a bike.
Organic
Organic pads may sound like they’re something grown without chemicals, it just means they don’t contain metal. Instead, they’re a blend of rubber, glass, carbon, aramid, Kevlar (the real contents differ among manufacturers), bonded by a resin.
Organic pads are popular among riders due to their progressive braking feel, which doesn’t “bite” aggressively. Additionally, it’s softer and doesn’t score brake discs. However, they typically wear out faster due to being soft.
Sintered
The pad material, usually copper particles, is fused to the backing plate under extreme pressure and temperature (the process is called “sintering”) to form a friction material that’s wear resistant. They can handle a wide range of conditions, hence well-suited for any type of riding including trackdays.
Sintered pads offer a stable CoF whether cold or hot, and they bite instantly. Apart from that, they are resistant to fade, perform well in the rain or mud, and usually last longer.
However, the do wear brake discs quickly. Most, if not all, motorcycles use the harder stainless steel brake discs these days. However, if you encounter deep grooves or “blueing” on your discs, you may have to consider replacing your brake pads for those of less aggressive material.
Semi-Metallic/Semi-Sintered
Manufacturers infuse organic pads with some metal material to increase the bite, durability and fade-resistance, while still maintaining the progressive feel and low disc-wear of the organic brake pads. This may be a good compromise for most riders.
Ceramic Composite
They are made by fusing high-strength ceramic fibres and ductile non-ferrous (non-iron) metal filaments at extreme pressures and heat. The metal filaments provide the initial bite while the ceramic compound provides high temperature resistance to avoid brake fade.
Besides that, the metal filaments carry away heat quickly to reduce rotor wear and deformation (disc warp).
Notes
First and foremost, you should not use any brake pad which or brake lining that contains asbestos. It has been established decades ago that asbestos is carcinogenic and could cause lung cancer should you inhale the asbestos dust. Although the use of asbestos has been banned you may still encounter it in some ultra-cheap drum brake linings.
If you’re replacing your brake pads for daily use, please select “STREET” or “ROAD” varieties. Racing brake pads do bite but they may have to reach a certain operating temperature to provide optimum braking.
Take some time to “bed in” the new pads (usually 300 to 500 km). They need time to conform to the irregularities of your brake discs, and will not grip at their maximum when new. So keep that in mind when riding away with a new set.
The hydraulic brake system’s operation is easy to understand.
It consists of only a few main parts.
However, pay attention to your brake fluid and hoses.
Everytime we squeeze and press down on the brake levers, the brake system causes the motorcycle to slow down. it works day in, day out, throughout the bike’s lifespan. But have you ever thought about how it actually works?
While the traditional cable-operated drum brakes are available on a certain number of bikes, they are being phased out for the hydraulic brake system, more commonly called disc brake system.
The brake system converts kinetic energy (contained in a moving object) to thermal energy (heat) by using friction. Brakes have evolved over time and some brake systems could actually slow a bike quicker than the latter could accelerate. In a recent overseas test on the BMW S 1000 XR, the bike accelerated from 0 to 160 km/h in 6.1 seconds, covering 151 metres. That fast! But it slowed from 160 to 0 km/h in 5 seconds in less than 100 metres.
The basic working principles of the hydraulic disc brake system is easy to understand. When you press the brake lever, the master cylinder pump pushes the brake fluid through the brake hoses to the calipers. In turn, this pressure pushes on the caliper’s pistons which have brake pads attached to them. The pads are compressed on to the brake disc.
Let’s look at the parts of a hydraulic brake system:
Master cylinder
More commonly called the “brake pump” or (“bulek pom” by your typical Chinese mechanic at the kedai motor), it converts mechanical force (when you press the lever) into hydraulic pressure. The brake lever pushes on a piston that presses on the brake fluid. The force with which you pull the lever is the leverage ratio and the size of the master cylinder piston determine the amount of pressure is subjected through the system, sometimes exceeding 1,000 kPa.
Brake Hoses
Hoses transmit pressure from the master cylinder to the calipers. They are typically multilayered, with a Teflon inner lining surrounded by braided nylon, or Kevlar, or stainless-steel reinforcing layer, and finally wrapped in a protective sheathing.
Contrary to popular belief, stainless steel-braided hoses DO NOT stronger braking. They provide a more consistent braking feel as they don’t expand like rubber hoses do when subjected to eyeball-popping hard braking.
Rubber hoses lose their strength over time, thus need to be replaced every four years.
Brake caliper
This is also inexplicably called the bulek pom in the workshops. The real job of pumping braking fluid is handled by the master cylinder.
Anyway, it’s at the caliper where the hydraulic pressure is multiplied. This is because the pressure from the master cylinder is exerted uniformly on the much larger area of the caliper pistons. An adult male’s hand grip typically exerts only between 0.4 to 0.6 kPa, thus that has to be increased to more than 1,000 kPa.
Brake Disc
The disc transfers the brake pads’ resistance to the tyre contact patch. Brake discs are usually made of stainless steel with variable amounts of iron. Modern discs are also drilled to assist in cooling, besides shedding water and debris.
Brake fluid
Another incorrectly named item, usually called minyak brek (brake oil). It has nothing to do with oils. The misconception probably arose from being referred to industrial hydraulic fluids that are petroleum based.
The brake fluid is the medium which transmits force from the brake lever to the brake pads. The brake fluid isn’t as simple as one may be inclined to think. Other than being non-compressible to effectively transfer the pressure, it needs to have low viscosity to work with ABS components, has good lubricity for the master cylinder and caliper piston seals, offer corrosion resistance, and importantly has high boiling point.
There are four grades of brake fluids. Glycol-based ones are DOT 3, 4, and 5.1, hence are mixable. DOT 5 is silicone-based and can’t be mixed any other type.
The glycol-based fluids are hydrophilic, meaning they suck in and absorb moisture from the air. Mixed with water, the brake fluid’s boiling point is lowered, causing brake fade. That’s why brake fluids need to replaced every two years.
DOT 5 on the other hand, is hydrophobic and rejects water. However, after repeated heating and cooling cycles, bad master cylinder and caliper seals, it will also ingest water eventually. However, DOT 5 brake fluid does not pull moisture out of the air own its own, thus have a longer lifespan. Military vehicles usually use DOT 5 since they sit idle for long periods of time.
Additionally, being silicone-based, it’s not caustic leading Harley-Davidson to using this previously.
Does this mean we should all convert to DOT 5? The short answer is “NO.” DOT 5 brake fluids are expensive, has high compressibility and higher viscosity (thicker) and thereby unsuitable for everyday use. Harley-Davdison has since reverted to DOT 4.
Each grade usually denotes the fluid’s boiling point, from the heat resulting from friction, rather than its chemical contents.
The US Department of Transport (DOT) specified each grade’s “dry” and “wet” boiling point. The latter is deemed to be completely free of moisture, while the latter contains 3.7% water, common after a year of regular use.
Observe how much performance drops away between dry and wet. That’s why brake fluid should be replaced every two years. Since the standard was set in the USA, we may need to replace it even earlier due to our climate’s high humidity and constant rain.
Water in the fluid lowers its boiling point, casing the brake lever to feel spongy and reducing braking performance – called “brake fade.”
That’s it for Part 1. We’ll talk about brake pads, caliper mounts, ABS, carbon brakes and so forth next time.
First they bring ABS, then its RACE ABS and now the German bike manufacturer offers bikers the next evolution of braking technology, ABS Pro. This new system for now comes as an upgrade for the HP4 superbikes where owners can opt to retrofit on to their bikes at any Motorrad dealership. (more…)
